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Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746405 08/22/18 5:29 am
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Quote
At this time I'm more interested in the sore butt issue. This is serious. Am I right in thinking the rear cross bar of the saddle is in just the wrong place? The average male was a little smaller in the 1920's leading to today's riders finding the riding position just a wee bit too scrunched up. They have to sit back a little too far. The best I can suggest is a piece of sheepskin on the saddle. It's old fashioned but it does help spread the load so to speak. I'm not that keen on gels or air filled and water filled things. Too awkward to ease the load by lifting one cheek as they rend to rise up with the butt cheek.


You might be on the money there.
The M20 eventually got 2" longer seat mount pillars which made the seating position a lot more comfortable.
Followed by a nose extension.

A little late now for MM


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Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746414 08/22/18 7:18 am
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Probably too late to do anything but I note that Charterlee mentioned in an earlier post that the wider/bigger police saddle on one of his bikes (Harley?) was more comfortable than the standard single seat. Might be worth investigating whether a police style seat will fit the Ariel.

Other than that I would take some ibuprofen/advil which is good for sore muscles, there is also a cream version which can be rubbed on to the affected area with good effect.

To avoid muscle tension and pain I would do stretching exercises before/during/after each ride which should help.

I can imagine your body is going to take a pounding over the 14 days so do everything to keep in tip top condition.


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Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746443 08/22/18 3:36 pm
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Originally Posted by Villiers
Well, the villiers theory is that an effective breather is the answer to pressure build up pushing the grease out rather than trying to seal it off
I've been giving thought to a breather but haven't come up with a solution as yet. The photograph of the domed lid of the cover I posted a couple of days ago illustrates the problem. It is completely covered with a thick coat of grease so anything other than a large diameter hole drilled in the top would quickly become plugged. The same is true of a hole located anywhere else since grease is flung in all directions. Offline I just got a detailed email from Richard Kal on the subject of Burman breathers so perhaps it contains a solution (I've only skimmed it so far).

Originally Posted by Villiers
Am I right in thinking the rear cross bar of the saddle is in just the wrong place? The average male was a little smaller in the 1920's leading to today's riders finding the riding position just a wee bit too scrunched up.
Originally Posted by BSA_WM20
The M20 eventually got 2" longer seat mount pillars which made the seating position a lot more comfortable.
Several years ago when my (taller) friend bought the Ariel intending to use it himself in the Cannonball he turned it over to Chaterlea25 to install different handlebars and move the seat back. As the photo shows, the seat is ~6" further back and a few inches higher than the stock position.

Originally Posted by gunner
Might be worth investigating whether a police style seat will fit the Ariel.
It's getting to the 11th hour but I'll see what's available locally and whether it looks like it would be an improvement

Originally Posted by gunner
I can imagine your body is going to take a pounding over the 14 days so do everything to keep in tip top condition.
That's why I've been subjecting myself to regular torture at the gym over the past two months. Much as I hate to admit it, I can tell that it has done some good.

I think I mentioned it some months ago, but at my annual physical this spring, when discussing my blood tests, I asked the Dr. what it would do to me if I had no choice but to eat hamburgers and fries for three meals a day for two weeks. He said he didn't expect there would be long term damage. Despite that, I'll be looking for better food than that wherever possible.

Originally Posted by L.A.kevin
bicycle shorts under your riding gear
Interestingly, my trainer made the same suggestion yesterday so a trip to a sporting goods store is in my near future.

Originally Posted by BSA_WM20
Followed by a nose extension.
It's a little late to be scheduling cosmetic surgery and, in any case, I'm afraid that would interfere with me wearing a full-face helmet. On the other hand, the pain on my face would keep me from thinking about my pain in my butt...

Originally Posted by Villiers
Of course a good single malt solves all.
Even a mediocre one if that's the only choice... I'm reminded that years ago I ordered a cognac in a motel bar in the middle of nowhere. The waiter returned with it in a styrofoam cup and asked if I wanted it heated in the microwave. Anyway, my expectations of finding good single malts over the next few weeks aren't high. This reminded me of a second whiskey incident in the middle of nowhere, although bourbon not scotch (it was on the trip where the first picture in my Instagram feed was taken). It was late and the bartender already had gone home when I ordered a Jack Daniels so the waitress, who clearly had not done this before, poured it for me. She brought me a full-size water glass (~10-12 oz.) filled with whiskey.

Attached Files
Ariel002.jpg (90.09 KB, 886 downloads)
Last edited by Magnetoman; 08/22/18 4:03 pm. Reason: whiskey
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746445 08/22/18 3:51 pm
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MM, I wear bicycle shorts when riding my off road bikes, they do help with the "monkey butt"


When given the choice between two evils I picked the one I haven't tried before
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746456 08/22/18 5:55 pm
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There's a vintage motorcycle supplier in California selling a variety of old style seats intended for modern bikes complete with assorted mounting brackets, See This Link. Check out the catalogue at the end of the page, there appears to be hundreds of seats and mountings available.

I would take some careful measurements of the current mounts and if something suitable turns up it may be possible to fit it at some point along the big ride.

Last edited by gunner; 08/22/18 6:05 pm.

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1972 Norton Commando
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746469 08/22/18 10:17 pm
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Originally Posted by Magnetoman

Originally Posted by L.A.kevin
bicycle shorts under your riding gear
Interestingly, my trainer made the same suggestion yesterday so a trip to a sporting goods store is in my near future.



oh, yes. but there's no reason to hide the modern high tech stuff under your stodgy old period motorcycle gear:

[Linked Image]

i'm going to start whining for pictures again, i know it.


every day you do not take a chance is a day of your life that you will never get back.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: kevin roberts] #746471 08/22/18 11:06 pm
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Originally Posted by kevin roberts

oh, yes. but there's no reason to hide the modern high tech stuff under your stodgy old period motorcycle gear:

That should be grounds for immediate disqualification.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746483 08/23/18 3:19 am
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Originally Posted by kevin roberts
there's no reason to hide the modern high tech stuff under your stodgy old period motorcycle gear:
I believe it was Madonna who popularized wearing flamboyant underwear on the outside of clothes. However, that was the last century and she's now 60 years old so the bike shorts I ordered today won't see the light of day.

The special chain lube arrived today, a day late, but the magneto chain is now thoroughly lubricated. I also greased the girders and the various moving parts on the engine.

The headlamp is an inexpensive one from India that came with a Lucas-like switch. I wired the switch to operate the lights but it wasn't the greatest switch. I hope not to need lights, but if I need them, I need them. So, today I removed the ammeter and installed a dpdt switch. Several times when dropping little screws during the rewiring I told myself I should have left well enough alone but, having finished it, I'm glad I did.

This leaves a breather for the gearbox the major problem in search of a solution. There's plenty of room above the cover to mount something, but what's required is a design for something that won't clog.

Attached Files
GearboxCover.jpg (81.42 KB, 775 downloads)
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746485 08/23/18 4:01 am
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Could you make a heated fitting that will melt any grease that accumulates in it, something like a copper pipe with some resistors wrapped around it?

Rob C

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: robcurrie] #746487 08/23/18 4:28 am
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Originally Posted by robcurrie
Could you make a heated fitting that will melt any grease that accumulates in it, something like a copper pipe with some resistors wrapped around it?

Rob C

Hmm... nichrome wire would be a better solution if you wanted to heat something. But that would not be a great idea. It's just under the carb. M M would probably end up using his on-board extinguisher. No bueno, amigo.

However, the Guzzi guys have been using a toyota differential breather for years for just this sort of application Toyota part number 90930-03031; thread size is 10 mm × 1 mm

Shamelessly stolen from all around Great Guzzi Guy Greg Bender (GGGGB):

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_rear_drive_breather.html


Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: L.A.kevin] #746530 08/23/18 3:50 pm
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Originally Posted by L.A.kevin
However, the Guzzi guys have been using a toyota differential breather for years for just this sort of application
Unfortunately, their differentials use oil, not grease, so the application isn't the same. The issue I have is the grease sticks to what it hits so it would quickly clog the input to a breather like that. However, I have an idea that is too clever to possibly work so I'll not reveal it until I've fabricated and tested it.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746579 08/24/18 12:43 am
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Well, something I've seen on aerospace applications for grease or oil passages that have to be kept clear is a little wire through a hole that is under intermittent fluid (gas or liquid) flow. The wire has a bend on each end to keep the wire in place. The wire is allowed to rattle around and keep the passage clear. You could scale that up and have a plate with several wires through it, letting them all bounce around and keeping the breather clear.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746586 08/24/18 2:48 am
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You're taking your eye off the ball. Your major problem is your riding comfort not your gearbox. At this stage it is far more important to get the riding position right. BSA Trev has told you what to do, move the saddle to a position where your butt fits the saddle properly. Installing a different saddle is ineffective if it is in the same position as the original.

Touring across the country where one can stop and linger at leisure is one thing. Riding to a strict schedule day after day where you have to get on and do it no matter what the discomfort is quite something else again. You demonstrate a recognition of the problem with your gym work but to me you show little appreciation of the task you have set yourself.

Can I suggest you arrange for a massage on the rest day. Book it before you leave. There will be some local masseur dealing with the local football club who will know exactly what is needed.

Looking after the biomass connecting the handlebars to the saddle is of equal importance to the bike. If you're tired you make mistakes.

Sheesh, I'm turning in to a nagging housewife. It's just that sometimes they're right on the money.

Break a leg,




Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Villiers] #746587 08/24/18 3:37 am
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Originally Posted by Villiers
You're taking your eye off the ball.
In my defense, people reading this thread only get once or twice/day snapshots of where my eye is looking. Offline Chaterlea25, who I will be holding 100% responsible for my comfort and well being over the two weeks, suggested I move the seat forward since that may place my butt more on the springy back part of the seat rather than the rigid front part. Done. There's actually reason to be optimistic this alone may solve the problem.

Unfortunately, unlike the Model D, the Model C's non-adjustable footrests are, well, non-adjustable. I'd been looking for a set of D replacements for the past year but they seem to be a bit thin on the ground. However, since the position of the C's footrests actually feels pretty reasonable, making a set of my own always has been pretty far down on the to-do list.

L.A.Kevin has made some nice suggestions for a clog-proof breather but I'm thinking of a different approach. TBA.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: BSA_WM20] #746622 08/24/18 4:08 pm
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Hello MM & everyone,

I was reading through this long story of your 1928 Ariel and first of all - congratulations choosing that classic bike :-) and moreover getting into Cannonball! Fingers crossed all goes well for you and your Ariel! Will definitely follow your Instagram post.

I have noticed that one of the things you were sorting was the shock absorber. I see on the photos you have originally the 23T and you have purchased a 19T. However, what I haven’t found is wheather you have tried to fit this 19T one in?
The reason asking is that I see from the photo it is actually a shock absorber produced in our company based in Czech Republic BUT the one you purchased is designated for Ariels 1929. The shock absorber for 1928 looks slightly different (we do produce them as well).
So I wanted to ask how did you managed to fit it in (if so) and if it works OK for you?

Just adding on the spring topic (the spring that goes onto the shock absorber 1929) - we have managed to make a little serie of them and we do sell it as a 1 piece .. as we know it’s needed for the oldtimers lovers - so as we are - currently working on Ariel 1929 renovation :-)

Hanka


Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Esha-Metalworks] #746623 08/24/18 4:34 pm
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Originally Posted by Esha-Metalworks
BUT the one you purchased is designated for Ariels 1929.
Oh no! The sprocket I purchased was listed by the Slovak Ariel Club as fitting 1927-193? (i.e. through some undefined date in the 1930s). No, I haven't tried fitting it so all I know is it looks like the sprocket presently hidden under the primary cover. In light of your post I assume the 1929 sprocket has different internal splines(?).

It's a good thing the present 23T had no trouble getting me to the top of the 8000 ft. mountain a few days ago because it sounds like it will be on the bike the entire trip. I would like to have the 19T on hand, just in case it's needed on the Cannonball, and to switch to once the ride is over in order to have more reasonable gearing for normal use. If you sell them, and take Paypal, and could ship it immediately, please click on my name and send me a Private Message with the details. Basically, there are two weeks to make it to my house so I could take it with me and, even if it doesn't, it would be here for my use after the event is over. Thanks!

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746669 08/25/18 3:27 am
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The shipper called this morning to offer to offer a different routing, via New York and from there to the Harley dealer in Portland who is serving as the receiving department for the start of the Cannonball. However, my bike had to in the crate and ready to go, which it wasn't (and still isn't). So, we're sticking with the original plan of it being picked up on Monday and shipped to Boston for pickup by my teammates. This also means things are getting down to the wire, with just two more days to finish everything and close up the crate.

I'm very happy with the new seat location. Of course, this is theoretical happiness because I haven't ridden it and, at this point, won't be riding it until it's in Maine.. On the same topic, my padded bicycle shorts arrived today.

Reading the rules again we're allowed only one speedometer and one odometer so it's just as well the bicycle speedometers didn't work.

I machined a holder for positioning one of the large diameter lenses I bought over the oil cup. A simple spherical lens of that focal length has a fair amount of aberration so I offset it to place the center of the lens over the region of interest to me, i.e. the place on the screen where the drops will hit. It looks like I over-offset it a little, but I went back to check after I originally uploaded this post and the apparent over-offset is due to the camera position. The white nylon looks a little out of place but I'm not sure paint would adhere very well. I might paint it anyway.

Attached Files
OilCupLens01.jpg (60.52 KB, 528 downloads)
OilCupLens02.jpg (70.7 KB, 522 downloads)
Last edited by Magnetoman; 08/25/18 3:39 am.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746671 08/25/18 3:43 am
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Suggestion... Instead of paint, black heat shrink.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: L.A.kevin] #746672 08/25/18 4:01 am
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Originally Posted by L.A.kevin
Suggestion... Instead of paint, black heat shrink.
I would need 2" OD heat shrink tubing and I used up the last I had when I ran a 5000 A line to the carbon arc headlamp on my BSA C15. Great light, although would melt plastic taillights if I got closer to cars than a half mile. .

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746713 08/25/18 4:25 pm
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5000 amp line? I know you are a wizard with magnetos, but I'd sure like to see how you can get that kind of amperage out of a C15. What, didja have a capacitor bank towed behind it with a mercury vapor thyrotron tube in series triggered by a knife switch? You have many talents, sir.

but seriously, if you need 2" heat shrink tubing, mouser (my favorite electronics supply place) has it in stock:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Qualtek/Q2-F-2-01-QB6IN-3?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutDkoVpcgZZigH19rpPJMD3iv8x3OfhvE%3d

Last edited by L.A.kevin; 08/25/18 4:52 pm. Reason: source for heat shrink
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: L.A.kevin] #746717 08/25/18 5:16 pm
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Originally Posted by L.A.kevin
I'd sure like to see how you can get that kind of amperage out of a C15.
You forget, my C15 has an E.T. ignition so its lighting coils generate almost immeasurable power. I realize that people complain about the E.T.'s light but that's because few know the secret in getting all that power to the headlamp is in making good electrical connections.

Originally Posted by L.A.kevin
if you need 2" heat shrink tubing, mouser (my favorite electronics supply place) has it in stock:
The problem is the bike ships on Monday which means I've run out of time for getting anything additional shipped to me (unless it fits in my suitcase). So, the lens holder either has to stay white, or I paint it black later today and hope most of it doesn't flake off.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746730 08/25/18 8:49 pm
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Instead of paint, try dying the lens holder.

Nylon takes dye very well ... years ago we used to buy white Molex connector housings and dye them various colors to reduce the possibility of assembly errors. Doesn't have to be anything fancy: overnight in RIT Dye will work well.

Looking forward to cheering you on during your adventure!
.. Gregg


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Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746767 08/26/18 2:09 am
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I wouldn't worry too much about painting your doover. By the time you get to the rest day you will be so familiar with the bike you won't need to look and you won't need it.

Break a leg.


Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746770 08/26/18 2:21 am
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WHINS IT GONNA START

KEVINS ANSY


every day you do not take a chance is a day of your life that you will never get back.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #746779 08/26/18 5:30 am
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I just returned from a seven-mile evening hike so this will be brief. The bike and most of the spares and tools are in the crate. Luckily, there are lots of nooks and crannies to carry everything that's needed.

I have a checklist that evolved during my 15+ trips to the Irish Rally that I've modified for the Cannonball. I've been crossing items off as I load them to make sure nothing gets missed, and each category (e.g. "Ariel-Specific Tools") gets its own labeled box. My hope is the list plus the separate boxes will make things easier in the weeks to come.

I got almost everything from the garage loaded before it was time for the hike, so tomorrow it will be time for the riding gear. And, I hope, to (finally) rebuild a Magdyno and a Monobloc for backups. By the end of Sunday the crate has to be closed because the trucking company will pick it up as early as 8 am (or as late as 2 pm) on Monday.

I fly to Portland the following Tues. Sept. 4, arriving late, and meet up with my teammates at breakfast Wed. morning. Wed. and Thurs. are days for tech inspections, with the "Official Start" Friday afternoon Sept. 7 for a 10-mile run to some nearby location for a group photo. The circus leaves town starting at 7:30 am on Sat. Sept. 8.

So, ready or not, here I come...

Attached Files
Crated.jpg (84.92 KB, 391 downloads)
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