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Oil Change Time (top end resto break-in) #741744
07/13/18 11:58 am
07/13/18 11:58 am
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 10,461
Pennsyltuckey
ricochetrider Offline OP

Moto Mojo
ricochetrider  Offline OP

Moto Mojo
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 10,461
Pennsyltuckey
Howdy guys,

Have 549 miles on my Commando's top end rebuild. It was suggested that I change oil after 400 miles, but I *accidentally* rode the bike over 200 miles last time I got on it!

oops, my bad.

Meantime, I'm holding off riding it further until I get the oil changed. Got me some Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle 20W50 oil, and some Purolator One filters.... a buddy has volunteered to guide me through the oil change but I thought I'd post here to ask what exactly y'all recommend-

Changing the filter for sure
Am I draining the sump, or just the tank?
should I pull the bottom end plug to look for metal filings?
any tips, tricks, special info,
anything I need to know that's not glaringly obvious?

I mean it's an oil change, not a heart transplant... not rocket science...
no need to overcomplicate or overthink the matter... right?

Thanks in advance!

post script edit: Now I sure as HECK don't mean this to devolve into one of the dreaded *oil threads* help Believe me I looked around quite a lot at oil... it was recommended I go with an "SG" rated oil... I tried like the dickens to find some but that particular oil rating may have gone the way of the dodo... somebody said that was rated for wet clutches and I have a dry clutch, maybe that's BS - however, I saw many things online, recommending Valvoline over *other* brands, so after perusing the AMSOL website, I went with this 4 stroke MC oil. Talk about the oil of ya want, but too much of hat'll be missing the point of the thread. Nobody needs 50 pages of arguing, gnashing of teeth, name-calling, etc. I'm asking a simple question about the PROCESS. Cheers.

Last edited by ricochetrider; 07/13/18 12:11 pm.

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Re: Oil Change Time (top end resto break-in) [Re: ricochetrider] #741749
07/13/18 12:31 pm
07/13/18 12:31 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,934
Maryland
JD Offline

Moto-Amish
JD  Offline

Moto-Amish
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,934
Maryland
Hey Tom, if it were me and I had just spent that much money making my bike look and run the way you have, I'd certainly drain the oil tank and pull the sump plug. Can't hurt, right? And it makes sure that anything that's in the oil gets drained from the engine.

When you going to be down my direction?


Josh
Re: Oil Change Time (top end resto break-in) [Re: ricochetrider] #741751
07/13/18 12:53 pm
07/13/18 12:53 pm
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,689
Norfolk, UK
L.A.B. Online content
BritBike Forum member
L.A.B.  Online Content
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,689
Norfolk, UK
Originally Posted by ricochetrider
Changing the filter for sure


Good.


Originally Posted by ricochetrider
Am I draining the sump, or just the tank?


The longer you leave it after running the engine the more oil there is likely to be in the sump as it drains through the oil pump from the oil tank so I'd suggest both.


Originally Posted by ricochetrider
should I pull the bottom end plug to look for metal filings?


I would.

Originally Posted by ricochetrider
any tips, tricks, special info,


Read the manual section on engine oil changing first (maintenance section K5) if you haven't already done so.

http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repair/70up_Commando/70upCommando.pdf


Originally Posted by ricochetrider
anything I need to know that's not glaringly obvious?

Clean the oil tank filter?
Add some oil to the sump before starting.
Check oil level after running the engine and fill to no more than about halfway between the L and H marks on the dipstick. If filled to the ''full' H mark oil is likely to blow from the tank breather until the level has dropped.

Originally Posted by ricochetrider
and I have a dry clutch,


Belt primary drive?
A clutch that shares a primary drive with a triplex chain flinging 200cc of oil around doesn't stay "dry" for long!

Re: Oil Change Time (top end resto break-in) [Re: ricochetrider] #741754
07/13/18 1:21 pm
07/13/18 1:21 pm
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 597
Ewing. NJ
E
edunham Offline
BritBike Forum member
edunham  Offline
BritBike Forum member
E
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 597
Ewing. NJ
Tom,
You might want to re-torque the cylinder head bolts also. They frequently loosen during breakin. If you do, remember to re-adjust the valves.

Ed from NJ

Re: Oil Change Time (top end resto break-in) [Re: ricochetrider] #741758
07/13/18 1:53 pm
07/13/18 1:53 pm
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,400
melbourne florida
B
bodine031 Online content
BritBike Forum member
bodine031  Online Content
BritBike Forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,400
melbourne florida
Valvoline VR-1 20/50 (ZDDP) As L.A.B. replied drain and flush entire system, prime before starting, retorque and adjust valves. Time consuming but your bike & your time

Re: Oil Change Time (top end resto break-in) [Re: ricochetrider] #741820
07/14/18 2:26 am
07/14/18 2:26 am
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,304
Magnolia, TX
htown Offline
BritBike Forum member
htown  Offline
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,304
Magnolia, TX
FWIW, I've always used Valvolene 20w/50 4 stroke non synthetic in all my bikes including breaking in rebuilt engines.

Last edited by htown; 07/14/18 2:30 am.

1978 Bonneville T140E
1974 Trident
1970 BSA Thunderbolt
1971 Norton Commando
1972 Norton Commando
1973 Norton Commando
1974 Norton Commando
2004 XL 1200R Sportster

Everything will be alright in the end. If its not alright, its not the end.

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