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T160 Loom from British Wiring #740691
07/04/18 3:25 am
07/04/18 3:25 am
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Melbourne Oz
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Steven A Offline OP
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Melbourne Oz
Hello All,

Apparently you can customise your loom from BR. Let's have a discussion of the sensible upgrades to the T160 loom. I will be ordering one soon and need to know exactly what to specify.

The bike has a Boyer ignition. I do not want headlight or ignition current through the key switch. More than one fuse, how many is up for discussion. Perhaps a little fuse panel would be neat. Not bothered about hazard lights. An oil gauge with a light in the face.

All ideas welcome.

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Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #740702
07/04/18 6:22 am
07/04/18 6:22 am
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Posts: 10,174
Scotland
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Steven,

Originally Posted by Steven A
sensible upgrades to the T160 loom.

Rectifier and Zener connections
Are you intending to retain the rectifier and Zener diode for the time being? If so, their connections still should not be part of the Brown/Blue wire between battery -ve and the ignition switch; I have a separate Brown/White wire from battery -ve to their -ve connections and a separate Red wire from their +ve connections to the standard "single point ground" on one of the bolts or studs through a rocker-box and the cylinder head into the block. Both wires should be http://www.britishwiring.com/28-Strand-PVC-Wire-14-ga-AWG-p/c128.htm as even the metric 14-strand wire BW use is rated lower than the output of the standard alternator, eek never mind a more-powerful one.

Reason I suggest separate wires connecting rectifier and Zener is, if either fails, you'll replace both with a reg./rec., new Zeners being an expensive lottery. frown When you fit a reg./rec., you'll connect its DC wires directly to the battery terminals and the separate Brown/White and Red rectifier/Zener wires can simply be removed from the bike.

BW will be willing to leave out the standard Brown/Blue wire connections to rectifier and Zener but might not be willing to to go as far as adding the Brown/White and separate Red wires; not hard for you to do though. smile

Brown/Blue wire also in the aforementioned 28-strand wire.

Red wire connection to battery +ve deleted.

Originally Posted by Steven A
More than one fuse, how many is up for discussion. Perhaps a little fuse panel

Multiple fuses are a vexed question, that I suspect BW won't want to get into on a "standard" loom; at best, I suspect all they'll be willing to modify is the standard cylindrical glass-'n'-metal main fuse 'n' holder to a standard automotive blade fuse.

If you, or they, add the separate wires to/from rectifier and Zener, I'd fuse the Brown/White, again with a standard automotive blade. Or if a reg./rec. I fuse the -ve wire on a T160.

These wires/fuses are all under the seat. I use individual fuse holders that can be interlocked, forming a small 'block' that sits on top of the battery - releasing the block's battery -ve connections allows the block to be swung out of the way for battery access.

Unfortunately, BW don't sell those fuse holders, although a type's probably available from a vehicle electrical parts supplier in Oz? Or BW does sell http://www.britishwiring.com/Lucas-7FJ-4-Way-Fusebox-Side-Entry-p/c149.htm; no dimensions on the website though. frown Or another possible alternative is to use these to mount fuses and wiring in the tools compartment beside relays? However, bear in mind that, if you want to use a fuse box or put the fuse in a different physical position on the bike, you might have to ask for the wires to be fused just to be left extra-long and unterminated, that you'll finish.

The problem I've run into when trying to fit low-Amp fuses into individual circuits is where to locate the fuses? Switches for individual circuits are either the ignition switch or on the handlebars, switched components are nearby ... but there isn't anywhere at the front of the bike to mount a fusebox, which must necessarily be waterproof. The only two alternatives I can come up with are individual blade fuse holders inside the headlamp shell, or additional wires running from the front of the bike to fuses under the seat, and then more wires from fuses to components ... frown

The one individual component low-Amp fuse I do include is for the electronic ignition, because the 'box' tends to be located under the seat, so the wire to it from the handlebar kill switch can be diverted easily to pass through a fuse with others under the seat already.

Originally Posted by Steven A
bike has a Boyer ignition. I do not want
ignition current through the key switch.

Ime and mho, thumbsdown Idea.

An educated guess says you're thinking of using a relay? Even three '4V' coils in series won't draw more than 4A, so a relay is a solution in search of a problem. Plus the relay will still be switched by the ignition and kill switches, so any problem in those or the wiring will affect the relay ... which'll affect the ignition supply ...

Having removed the lighting Amps from the ignition switch, if it or the kill switch can't pass and switch four Amps reliably, it's the problem that needs fixing, not masking with a relay. Btw, an original Lucas ignition switch can be cleaned and improved - http://www.nocnsw.org.au/technical/rebuild-lucas-ignition-switchtobetterthannew. thumbsup

Mod. to the standard harness: only one White/Yellow wire terminal around the coils' area(?), for connection to the Boyer-Bransden "Transistor Box" White wire. If you've fitted the Box away from the coils' area, maybe just ask for the White/Yellow wire to be longer than standard and left unterminated, for you to cut to length.

Originally Posted by Steven A
I do not want headlight
current through the key switch.

Wise but I'll be surprised if BW will add the extra wiring - they won't know where you intend to place the relays and, even if you tell them, I doubt the builder can relate a place on the bike to a place on the 'board' he'll be using ... and he's supposed to be making a standard T160 loom ... smile Nevertheless, the extra wiring is simple:-

. Extend Blue/White and Blue/Red wires from handlebar kill switch to a relay each. Fwiw, I've always fitted relays on a T160 in the tools compartment under the seat; two of these back-to-back happen to fit between the sides of the tools compartment, with the wires from beneath them in the compartment; thumbsup standard automotive 4-pin 'cube' relays push into the terminals in the housings. Available are 'cube' relays that take a fuse, so main and dip can be fused separately.

. Supply the relays from battery -ve separately from the standard Brown/Blue wire to the ignition switch. I use Brown/Blue for the relays supply because it's the colour code for unswitched power but that's up to you.

. Also copied from the Lucas standard colour codes, I use either Blue/Slate (Grey) or Blue/Black between headlamp main and relay, Blue/Pink or Blue/Orange between headlamp dip and relay; BW sells all of these combos. in http://www.britishwiring.com/14-Strand-PVC-Wire-18-ga-AWG-p/c114.htm

Digressing slightly, I also have the flasher and starter relays in the tools compartment but, again, the wiring changes - although simple - are likely to be something BW won't do building a "standard" loom.

Originally Posted by Steven A
Not bothered about hazard lights.

Hazard lights are easy - waterproof on/off switch on the 'bars, connected inside the headlamp shell between the Light Green/Brown from the relay and the Green/White and Green/Red wires to the turn signals.

Originally Posted by Steven A
oil gauge with a light in the face.

For a T160, the L.P. Williams kit, developed originally by the eponymous Les for his T160-based "Legend", although LPW is currently showing zero in stock?

Hth.

Regards,

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #740781
07/05/18 1:35 am
07/05/18 1:35 am
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Fl., U.S.A.
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Stuart, thanks for posting such a comprehensive response. One of the biggest problems I faced when I decided to rewire my bike was where to mount everything. I mounted my rectifier/regulator to underside of the battery tray.
Mounted my Tri-Spark where the condenser pack was originally behind the battery cover. I plan on replacing the glass tube main fuse with an automotive blade type in the near future as it has recently started giving me problems.
I also appreciate your explanation of adding the relays (or not) and mounting them in the tool tray. Thanks again


Jerry

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #740784
07/05/18 2:53 am
07/05/18 2:53 am
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 299
Melbourne Oz
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Steven A Offline OP
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A comprehensive answer as usual. Thank you.

Hadn't thought about the Zener/ reg!

You sent me off looking for waterproof relays. Plenty about but huge.

https://www.hella.com/hella-us/assets/media/HINC_Electrics_Catalog.pdf

page48.

And this.

http://www.prolecproducts.com.au/qrcode/datasheets/9010.pdf

page 4.

I'll be poking about with the ruler.

I have emailed British Wiring to discuss a custom loom.

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Thunderbutt] #740801
07/05/18 7:49 am
07/05/18 7:49 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Jerry,

Pleased I was able to help. smile

Regards,

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #740804
07/05/18 8:18 am
07/05/18 8:18 am
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,174
Scotland
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Steven,

Originally Posted by Steven A
You sent me off looking for waterproof relays.

confused I use standard automotive relays, either under the seat on the T160's or inside the headlamp shell on the T100. I bought from British retailer Vehicle Wiring Products - relays webpage - the types I've used are "12V 4 Blade 30A Type A", "12V 4 Blade Type B" and "12V 4 Blade Fused Relay"; however, as I say, they're standard automotive and you should be able to locate a source either in Oz or Chinese on eBay?

Afaik, the interlocking relay socket I linked in the earlier post are also common automotive components so, again, local Oz or Chinese eBay sources?

Hth.

Regards,

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Stuart] #740808
07/05/18 9:22 am
07/05/18 9:22 am
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 299
Melbourne Oz
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Steven A Offline OP
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Stuart,

I was hoping to get a relay inside the T160 headlight but didn't fancy my chances. I have found the micro relays with a cable socket to suite from TE Connectivity.

https://www.digikey.com.au/scripts/...mSeq=265580980&uq=636663612143662733

http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...-A001&DocType=DS&DocLang=English

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #740850
07/05/18 5:24 pm
07/05/18 5:24 pm
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Scotland
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Steven.

Originally Posted by Steven A
hoping to get a relay inside the T160 headlight but didn't fancy my chances.

My T100 has two standard automotive 'cube' relays (for the headlamp) in a similar-size headlamp shell to a T160's - in addition to a similar-size toggle switch to the T160's, my T100 has an ammeter and two idiot lamps in the shell too ... smile

Originally Posted by Steven A
found the micro relays with a cable socket to suite from TE Connectivity.
http://www.te.com/commerce/Document...-A001&DocType=DS&DocLang=English

Don't pay too much for micro relays, some car makers (e.g. Chrysler) use them so, again, they're a standard automotive component.

Also, because I'm crap at soldering, I avoid it on electrical connections as far as possible - risking telling you something you know already, if not done correctly, the solidified solder around the conductor forms a stress raiser, that can break months or years later; because it's inside the wire insulation, the problem's impossible to see when the joint's made or when it breaks ... frown

Hth.

Regards,

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Stuart] #740899
07/05/18 11:15 pm
07/05/18 11:15 pm
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 299
Melbourne Oz
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Steven A Offline OP
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The micro relay connector data sheet implies that it has (unshown) 4.8mm blade connectors.

Regarding soldering, I work in a design office and can knock up printed cct boards and we have a Form 2 printer. Perhaps I should up the ante and decide what would be perfect and just make it.

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #740942
07/06/18 8:38 am
07/06/18 8:38 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Steven,

Originally Posted by Steven A
The micro relay connector data sheet implies that it has (unshown) 4.8mm blade connectors.

The micro relays I know have 3/16" (aka "4.8 mm.") blades for the switching contacts and 1/4" blades for the switched contacts.

Originally Posted by Steven A
Perhaps I should up the ante and decide what would be perfect and just make it.

grin thumbsup

A semi-circular board that fits towards the back of the headlamp shell, multi-pin wiring plug on the back and a row of mini-blade fuses on the front? That'd be a waterproof location close to most switches and the switched components?

Tbh, if you have - or you have to buy - terminals and crimping tools to finish off a loom made by British Wiring, I don't know why you don't just buy wire, terminals, cable ties, tools, etc. from Autosparks and/or VWP in GB (BW is supplied by Autosparks) and build the whole loom yourself? confused If I can do it, it surely ain't rocket science. grin

Btw, not mentioned so far afaics are battery-solenoid, solenoid-starter and engine/frame-battery cables? BW only list the 37-strand, which is very stiff compared to the 196-strand (196/0.40) available in GB and I've used for years. I also fit batteries with terminals towards the rear of the carrier (but still with the -ve (non-earth) terminal on the oil tank side), much easier to route the engine/frame-battery cable clear of the sidepanel. thumbsup

Hth

Regards,

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Stuart] #741128
07/08/18 6:49 am
07/08/18 6:49 am
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Melbourne Oz
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Steven A Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Stuart

Tbh, if you have - or you have to buy - terminals and crimping tools to finish off a loom made by British Wiring, I don't know why you don't just buy wire, terminals, cable ties, tools, etc. from Autosparks and/or VWP in GB (BW is supplied by Autosparks) and build the whole loom yourself? confused If I can do it, it surely ain't rocket science. grin



Yes, I think we have arrived at that position. I got an old headlight out of my junk box. There is more space in there than I thought. I'll draw some thing up.

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741136
07/08/18 10:00 am
07/08/18 10:00 am
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Steven A Offline OP
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Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741144
07/08/18 10:57 am
07/08/18 10:57 am
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Hi Steven,

Originally Posted by Steven A
Originally Posted by Stuart
if you have - or you have to buy - terminals and crimping tools to finish off a loom made by British Wiring, I don't know why you don't just buy wire, terminals, cable ties, tools, etc.
and build the whole loom yourself?

I think we have arrived at that position.

Without forgetting obtaining from a British supplier is more expensive for you than it is for me:-

. Rectifier and Zener connections, Brown/Blue wire and White wire between ignition switch and a 6-way 'common' bullet snap connector inside the headlamp shell, while I still use 28/0.30 (aka 2 mm2), I use the wire with 'thinwall' insulation (that BW doesn't stock in most of those colours/combos.); reasons are it has a higher rating (25A vs. 17.5A for the same conductor in 'normal' PVC insulation) but has a smaller o.d.

. Red wires One 8-way 'common' bullet snap connector inside the headlamp shell, another under the seat, individual component Red wires connected to the nearest 8-way, the two 8-ways joined by two lengths of 28/0.30 thinwall, themselves joined:-

. either at a ring terminal attached to one of the bolts/studs through a rocker-box and the cylinder head into the block;

, or a 4-way 'common' bullet snap connector above said bolt/stud and a separate wire between them;

. reason I changed from the first to the second is my T160's have twin Fiamm horns mounted on the lug above the oil cooler mounting, and the 4-way is a convenient place to connect their return wire.

. Other wires I use a lot of 9/0.30 (0.65 mm2), its 5.75A rating is more than adequate for most individual component supply and return wires ... and it saves ... oooh ... several grammes. grin

. I use 14/0.30 (1 mm2) either where its 8.75A rating is needed (e.g. 100W main beam) or I can't get the colour combo. in 9/0.30.

. Terminals Reason I use those particular wire sizes is 3/16" (aka "4.7 mm.") o.d. Lucas-lookalike crimp-on bullets - that work - are available for all of 'em. For the same reason, I don't use 16/0.20 (1 mm2) thinwall - I had a bad experience building a loom for someone who'd bought all the wires in that type, getting bullets for 1 mm2 conductor (that work fine on 14/0.30) to stay on. frown So I've never used it again. Apart from that one bad experience, I have little trouble with crimp-on bullets, even though I use a cheap crimping tool I bought years ago.

Otoh, I use only spade terminals intended for 28/0.30 (2 mm2) conductor - thinner conductors, I strip double the length (~1/2") of insulation, twist the conductor strands together, bend the twist in half then crimp it. Works thumbsup

Btw, if you order from VWP, add a load of these - absolute God-send when needing to fit a bullet on old Imperial-size wire, or some of the weird sizes on the likes of Sparx stuff.

. individual fuse holders that can be interlocked - http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/122/1/blade-fuse-holders and https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/fuses-fuseboxes/blade-fuses-fuseboxes.html. Regrettably, I can't find an online source/image of the ones I use frown - I got a load years ago in a clearout - they look a lot like http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/639/clear-cover-for-210-fuse-holder but the wires come in/out of the sides, so the interlocked 'block' will sit on top of something like a battery.

. Cable ties and wrapping I build a loom on the bike, attaching wires to convenient frame tubes with these ( grin no, I don't buy 'em from Japan, it was the only image I could find on the www), I can pick 'em up from the electrical parts stalls at autojumbles for about £1 for ten.

Having built my first loom, I couldn't see the point of pulling it all off to wrap it, when most of it's covered by other bits of bike. The wires still left exposed - between headlamp and tank, tank and sidepanel - I cover with what VWP calls "Slit Convoluted Tubing" (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/517/convoluted-tubing and select "Slit" from the "Options" dropdown) and Autosparks calls "Black Split Convoluted Conduit" (https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/sleeving-conduit-tapes.html). Both sell it in various ID; the "Slit"/"Split" is lengthways so it can be fitted over (and pulled off) wires connected already without needing to disconnect and thread them.

Originally Posted by Steven A
I got an old headlight out of my junk box. There is more space in there than I thought.

I don't know about a British Wiring-built harness but, when I rewire, I never end up with the standard Lucas space-consuming 'rat's nest' in the headlamp shell. So, as I posted earlier, I didn't have any problem even fitting two relays in the T100's headlamp shell. smile

However, one thing I did find when I checked is the wires normally attached to an H4 plug are wa-aa-ay too short - they look ok when the headlamp's hanging out of the shell but as the headlamp goes into the shell, they pull on their connections and other wiring. frown Also, the length of the H4 connection takes plug itself right into the back corner of the shell; plugs with terminals straight on the ends of the wires, I found the wires were being bent sharply by the shell. eek

I found Japanese-bike-type H4 plugs with 'flag' terminals (at right-angles to the wires) and a cover over them on eBay - https://www.eBay.co.uk/itm/Universa...ket-With-Connectors-Durite-/331870156467; I crimp the terminals to about 6" of wire.

Hth.

Regards,

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741147
07/08/18 11:46 am
07/08/18 11:46 am
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Steven A Offline OP
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And the more you look the more you find!

http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Specification+Or+Standard%7F114-72110%7FA%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_SS_114-72110_A.pdf%7F2066046-1

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741480
07/11/18 9:28 am
07/11/18 9:28 am
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Steven A Offline OP
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I made a 3D print of a relay base, relay and micro fuse holder. I have done a mock up in a shell with blue tack to hold it all in.

[Linked Image]

Plenty of space for relays.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

I'll print up a circular arrangement with a gap to avoid the toggle switch. Probably don't need to use the tiny fuses.

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741482
07/11/18 9:35 am
07/11/18 9:35 am
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Steven A Offline OP
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Stuart,

What multi pin connectors do you use. I am thinking of the connection to my relay pcb. Mat-n-Locks have pcb connectors but they cam be rather large. Another thing is the cost of hand crimpers. The name brand ones we buy for electronics at work cost $700!

I have experimented with a $30 Multicomp one from Element14 (Farnell). You have to try different 1/4" spades to find ones that work nicely. Of course a TE crimper with TE connectors works a dream but I am not spending the money.

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741564
07/11/18 11:36 pm
07/11/18 11:36 pm
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Hi Steven,

Originally Posted by Steven A
I'll print up a circular arrangement with a gap to avoid the toggle switch.

When I rewired my first T160, I also swapped to the black switch clusters used originally on the electric-start Commando and then '79-on by the Co-op - the right-hand one effectively moves the toggle switch out of the headlamp shell and puts its function in the right-hand switch cluster; then I've used headlamp shells intended for '79-on twins, which don't have either toggle switch or idiot lamp holes. thumbsup

Sadly, the switch clusters aren't so easy today frown - original Lucas switch clusters are expensive, the Sparx patterns have become progressively more crap and expensive the newer they are. mad However, guy here in GB has used clusters and levers from a Hinckley on his T150, I can post a link if you want to see?

Originally Posted by Steven A
What multi pin connectors do you use.

Varies - e.g. for my relays collection in the tools compartment on the plastic part of the rear mudguard, I've joined 'em to the main harness with one using 1/8"-wide spades (switching inputs) and one using 1/4"-wide spades (switched outputs).

Originally Posted by Steven A
Another thing is the cost of hand crimpers.
I have experimented with a $30 Multicomp one from Element14 (Farnell).

If you wanted to be really cheap, this one would crimp all spades - including those in the two multi-pin connector types above - and the "W-crimp bullets" I linked earlier ... wink

Realistically, I'd go for at least http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/268/crimping-tool-with-spring-return-handles; if I was trying to stick to my preferred principle of buying the best tool I could afford at the time, http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/269/ratchet-crimping-tool. But I suspect you can find similar quality for less bucks on somewhere like Oz eBay?

Originally Posted by Steven A
You have to try different 1/4" spades to find ones that work nicely.

I've found having spades from different sources to be useful - e.g. I still have some 'original Lucas', because the longer 'tangs' (that go into the wire insulation) are at the wrong angle and have to be bent with pliers first or cut shorter, or crimping just collapses them. facepalm So I've sourced spades from other suppliers for common single-wire crimps. Where those 'original Lucas' spades are useful is when two wires need to be crimped in one terminal ... smile

Hth.

Regards,

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Stuart] #741905
07/15/18 12:27 am
07/15/18 12:27 am
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Steven A Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Stuart
Hi Steven,

Originally Posted by Steven A
I'll print up a circular arrangement with a gap to avoid the toggle switch.

When I rewired my first T160, I also swapped to the black switch clusters used originally on the electric-start Commando and then '79-on by the Co-op - the right-hand one effectively moves the toggle switch out of the headlamp shell and puts its function in the right-hand switch cluster; then I've used headlamp shells intended for '79-on twins, which don't have either toggle switch or idiot lamp holes. thumbsup



I'll accommodate the switch so others can use the board. There is plenty of space. However the bike I am working on does not have the original switch. When I looked at what was on offer as an original spare this came up.

[Linked Image]

Much bigger that I remember it to be. Does this look like the real thing to you? If it is do you have one to measure?

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741910
07/15/18 1:46 am
07/15/18 1:46 am
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Steven A Offline OP
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Oh Dear,

I just got out my new T160 headlight for a look and found it was different to the headlight I was using as a model.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Dodged a disaster. The more rearward toggle switch position must be the earlier bikes without the centre dash.

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741937
07/15/18 8:35 am
07/15/18 8:35 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Steven,

Originally Posted by Steven A
the bike I am working on does not have the original switch. When I looked at what was on offer as an original spare this came up.

[Linked Image]

Does this look like the real thing to you? If it is do you have one to measure?

frown Not the right one. The correct T160 switch was 34660, now itself NLA and substituted by 31780, though whether the latter is 2-position or 3-position, I don't know.

Otoh, 31788 is a 3-position, one of the two used on everything pre-'71, T100's '71-'74 and '78 T140E's.

Certainly an original 31788 could be used in place of a 34660 - Blue wire on terminal 4 and Blue/Yellow on terminal 6 or 8 depending whether you wanted 'on' with the lever in the middle or fully to the right. What concerns me is the diagram in your picture, which isn't correct certainly for an original 31788 - just the diagram could be wrong or Wassell "Genuine Lucas" could've screwed around with the internals. facepalm

Not sure if I still have an original 34660 ... I removed 'em and the headlamp shells from my T160's in the early 1980's when I fitted the '79-on twin switch clusters and headlamp shells (no top holes), I know I kept the headlamp shells, unfortunately however, I'm not near my bits boxes to check if I still have an original switch. frown

However, Mitch Klempf has a picture of what appears to be an original 34660 - http://www.klempfsbritishparts.com/SWITCH--LIGHT--TOGGLE-0; with the terminals on the bottom of the casing, they'll be the same size as the switch you pictured, as they were all what 'original Lucas' collectively-termed "57SA" so look like they were assembled from the same basic bits. I've a 31788 so I'll pm you the dimensions after I get out to the bikes.

Originally Posted by Steven A
just got out my new T160 headlight for a look and found it was different to the headlight I was using as a model.

[Linked Image]

Dodged a disaster. The more rearward toggle switch position must be the earlier bikes without the centre dash.

Uh-uh, only a single D-shaped hole on top is always T160, "earlier bikes without the centre dash" (and '76-'78 twins) have three more holes for the idiot lamps. The shell on the left of your picture is correct, the one on the right looks like yet another (potential) balls-up by Wassell "Genuine Lucas" laughing - moving the switch over the wider part of the headlamp reflector increases the risk of the two coming into contact ... facepalm

Hth.

Regards,

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #741940
07/15/18 9:02 am
07/15/18 9:02 am
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Norfolk, UK
L.A.B. Online content
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Originally Posted by Steven A
However the bike I am working on does not have the original switch.
Much bigger that I remember it to be. Does this look like the real thing to you? If it is do you have one to measure?


The 34660 was a 57A type switch.

[Linked Image]


Originally Posted by Steven A
I just got out my new T160 headlight for a look and found it was different to the headlight I was using as a model.

Dodged a disaster. The more rearward toggle switch position must be the earlier bikes without the centre dash.


It's in the same position as my late T160's shell and images of other T160s. The earlier T150 shell had the three warning light holes.

https://www.eBay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NE...LL-AND-RIM-UK-MADE-19-1374-/182239797178

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Stuart] #741941
07/15/18 9:13 am
07/15/18 9:13 am
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Norfolk, UK
L.A.B. Online content
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L.A.B.  Online Content
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Originally Posted by Stuart
The correct T160 switch was 34660, now itself NLA and substituted by 31780, though whether the latter is 2-position or 3-position, I don't know.


Two-position: https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-31780-31836-57sa-toggle-switch-2a9129-1842-p.asp#

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: L.A.B.] #741955
07/15/18 12:54 pm
07/15/18 12:54 pm
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Hi Les,

Originally Posted by L.A.B.
Two-position:

thumbsup

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #742080
07/16/18 10:11 am
07/16/18 10:11 am
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Steven A Offline OP
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I have made up a rectangular solid the same dimensions as the switch. It almost fits. A real Lucas switch will go in to the new headlight with at worst, the bottom terminal bent slightly out of the way.

Re: T160 Loom from British Wiring [Re: Steven A] #742508
07/19/18 11:55 pm
07/19/18 11:55 pm
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Steven A Offline OP
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Steven A  Offline OP
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I have emailed the supplier. He has sold four of the headlights with no complaints. He states that there is a T140 headlight with the switch position in the same place. I think that as the switch narrows down to the smaller cubic part it fits without a problem.

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