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67T120 What is this??? #740580 07/03/18 2:24 am
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zxmikez Offline OP
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Does anyone recognize the square electrical box mounted to the rear chrome mudguard (fender)?
https://www.triumphrat.net/members/albums/62616-open1mind/1967-bonneville-rectifier-huh-24852.html



Some background... the bike is a nicely restored, very new to me, creampuff. It looks like about 150 miles since the restoration was done, but it has been down for a few years on a battery tender.

It is most definitely a runner. Since it is new to me, I wanted to give a few gentle shake down rides- then change the fresh looking fluids out, retorque the heads, etc.

The first two short rides went well. Starts easy, good power- and everything works.

A longer ride, (about 20 Miles) and it starts to develop a miss at higher RPM. So I headed right home to check it out. My guess was a electrical, because I THINK the Ammeter showed more "positivety" on the earlier rides, and now barely gets back to even. I have had other bikes shake loose a coil wire and the same kind of miss in this case, so that is something that will need to be checked out.

So, at great risk to life and limb, I hooked up a voltmeter. The battery reads 12.01 volts. When the bike is running, it read as high as 12.1 when rev'd out to about 3500 with no lights. New motor, so no redlining please. If the lights are on at high beam, even when rev'd, it is about 11.9- 12v. At idle, it is lower, about 11.6-11.8v.

The bike has obviously been rewired, and it looks quite neat in most places. No clue how old the battery is, so I will likely just replace that (suggested brand/type?).

But, I think the component in question is some kind of regulator/rectifier? If so, I would like to just swap that and see if it gets me more volts?

Before I start pulling off engine covers and breaking stuff, those to fixes look too easy to resist. My concern is that the component in the photo is something else.

The factory service manual has been no help here- since this thing must be aftermarket and I dont think anyone would suggest stock. I cant make sense of what voltage the bike should be putting out, but I am guessing it is like most 12v systems that it should be 13+ as it moves above idle?

Thanks


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
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Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740581 07/03/18 2:39 am
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JD Offline
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I'd think you should be getting a much higher voltage at that engine speed. You can always take your battery to an auto parts store and have them test it. To answer your question though, that's a Tympanium regulator/rectifier.


Josh
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740601 07/03/18 11:00 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi,

Originally Posted by zxmikez
hooked up a voltmeter. The battery reads 12.01 volts. When the bike is running, it read as high as 12.1 when rev'd out to about 3500 with no lights.If the lights are on at high beam, even when rev'd, it is about 11.9- 12v. At idle, it is lower, about 11.6-11.8v.


The battery Volts are definitely too low, and increasing engine rpm should show them rising towards ~15V @ 3,000~3,500 rpm (so "no redlining" necessary). That they aren't could be the battery, could be the charging. To check the battery more-positively:-

. Charge it with a trickle-charger that delivers no more than 1/10th of the battery's Ah (e.g. for an 8Ah battery, it charges at no more than 0.8Ah) for at least ten hours.

. Measure the Volts across it; if you see less than 12.5V after that charging, likely the battery is donald; otoh, if you see higher, before your hopes go too high, be aware that the high Volts might be just a 'surface charge', that'll drop when the battery has to supply Amps ...

. So connect it up and see what the Volts readings are: all off, just ignition on, lights on but engine not running, etc., etc. If they're still as low as they have been, I'd be happier the battery is the problem.

Originally Posted by zxmikez
No clue how old the battery is, so I will likely just replace

Mmmm ... both ime and John Healy has posted several times, a new battery isn't necessarily a 'good' battery. frown I prefer to identify the problem component/s and replace that/them, rather than just throw money in the general direction of a problem.

Hth.

Regards,

Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740605 07/03/18 12:12 pm
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JD Offline
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To add to Stuart's post, several years ago I was shipped a brand new battery. I performed RF Whatley's battery test (http://gabma.us/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/battery_testing.pdf) and the battery failed. I called the company, told them about how I tested it and it failed, and they shipped me a new battery. Performed the same test and it passed. Stuart's right, a new battery out of the box might not be a good battery.


Josh
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740607 07/03/18 12:14 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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I think the battery replacement is a no brainer here...
After spending time on a trickle charger- it does not get higher than 12.1-12.2. There may be other issues, but I will start there....

Thanks for the ID on the rectifier. Since it is so easy to get to, I will likely just replace that or maybe test things once the new battery is installed.

Thanks to all...and I will circle back with an update. Or maybe a police report after I start a fire!


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740626 07/03/18 1:49 pm
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The Tympanium is not the problem.

Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740649 07/03/18 5:59 pm
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Swan Offline
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Does your bike have electronic ignition? If so, most brands will not function properly below 12 volts.


1966 Triton
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star
1966 Triumph Bonneville
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740666 07/03/18 8:57 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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Yes, there is a Boyer in it, and I recall that they are impatient with low voltage. Hopefully the battery change sorts it, and at worst switching out the Tympanium also.


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740681 07/04/18 1:07 am
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One change at a time. Doubt the Tympanium is the issue.


Bill B...


Boomer
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740703 07/04/18 6:31 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi,

Originally Posted by zxmikez
Thanks for the ID on the rectifier. Since it is so easy to get to, I will likely just replace that or maybe test things once the new battery is installed.

Uh-uh, a Tymp is a combined regulator/rectifier - i.e. it has replaced both the original separate rectifier and Zener diode - you could only replace it with another reg./rec. and, if the Tymp's working, what would be the point? confused

Hth.

Regards,

Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: Stuart] #740736 07/04/18 4:06 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Stuart
Hi,

Originally Posted by zxmikez
Thanks for the ID on the rectifier. Since it is so easy to get to, I will likely just replace that or maybe test things once the new battery is installed.

Uh-uh, a Tymp is a combined regulator/rectifier - i.e. it has replaced both the original separate rectifier and Zener diode - you could only replace it with another reg./rec. and, if the Tymp's working, what would be the point? confused

Hth.

Regards,



Point well taken on the correct vocabulary. I ordered the replacement Reg/Rect in addition to a battery because where I live the riding season is too dam short. So, I didnt want to replace the battery only to find that now I need to replace the Reg/Rect. If the battery is operating perfectly in the first minute, well- then the only bad thing is I have a replacement Tympanium laying around for the next emergency Plus, I have a BSA is on the old diode set up, and my guess is that I will want to update (or break it trying) that bike.

One change at time axiom is correct- that is what I planned to do and I did not express that clearly.

Ride well and thanks



1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #740985 07/06/18 8:35 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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OK- change number 1 did not get it done. I installed a new sealed battery. Out of the case it read 12.8 V, so I had some confidence in that component.

Upon firing up the bike, it went down to about 12.4, and that is with the lights off. I decided to try a higher rpm ride, at highway speeds for a few minutes to see what happened. The Ammeter stays negative the entire time, regardless of lights on/off- and regardless of rpms.

After about 15 mins of riding total- it was at 12.1- 12.2 idling in the driveway with the lights off. With the lights off, and if I push the revs to about 3-4k, then I can get it to 12.3 or 12.4.

Since I have a replacement reg/rectifier in hand, and since it seems like and easy install, that will be my next move....unless this wise group has some ideas otherwise


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741015 07/07/18 2:56 am
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RF Whatley Offline
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Mike -
Some thoughts....

• Just looking at the photo supplied on the other forum, it appears a much better job of wiring the Tymp could be done. I'd need more photos of course to verify this, but several things leave me scratching my head.
• Glad to hear you bought a sealed battery. I would have suggested one battery shared between the BSA and Triumph as an easy way to maintain one good battery between 2 good bikes.
• The details of the 1967 electrical system now escape me. If you have the rotary headlamp switch then that cuts in extra charging coils when the HL is turned ON. The addition of the Tymp may have been done incorrectly and doesn't account for this. The result would be low charge rates. OTOH, if your bike has the toggle headlamp switch, then it may still have the 3-wire alternator, again wired wrong, with the same low charge results, but for a slightly different reason.
• Or, you may still have the original alternator which is not encapsulated in epoxy. (You'd need to pull the primary cover to confirm.) These "open" stators failed at an alarming rate, which could result in... [well, you get the idea].
• Lastly, low charge could simply be the result of the tubular fuse holder so prominently featured in your photo. Those need to be replaced on all your machines with the hooded "flat pack" type fuse used on modern automobiles. These make connections that are not dependent upon spring pressure, and therefore hold up in the water and vibration-rich environment of a motorcycle.

Hope this helps.


Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!

RF Whatley
Cornelia, GA
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741018 07/07/18 3:48 am
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R Moulding Online Content
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67 had a rotary type switch but the later 88sa (i think thats the number) that does not switch the coils of the alternator.

Rod


So remember, when you're feeling very small and insecure,
How amazingly unlikely is your birth;
And pray that there's intelligent life somewhere out in space,
'Cause there's bugger all down here on Earth!
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741035 07/07/18 10:40 am
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RF Whatley Offline
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Thanks, Rod. I'm getting too old to remember all this stuff !!


Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!

RF Whatley
Cornelia, GA
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: R Moulding] #741038 07/07/18 11:30 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Mike, Richard, Rod,

Originally Posted by RF Whatley
low charge could simply be the result of the tubular fuse holder so prominently featured in your photo. Those need to be replaced on all your machines with the hooded "flat pack" type fuse used on modern automobiles.

+1.

Originally Posted by RF Whatley
The details of the 1967 electrical system now escape me. If you have the rotary headlamp switch then that cuts in extra charging coils when the HL is turned ON.

If Mike's bike is correct for the "67" of the thread title, it should have:-

. S45 key-operated on/off ignition switch - in the sidepanel;

. 3-position 88SA rotary lighting switch, on the headlamp shell;

. 3-wire single-phase RM19 alternator stator, originally encapsulated if the engine number is DU58565 or higher;

. stator Green/Yellow and Green/Black wires connected to the same Tympanium Yellow wire - those stator wires were originally connected to the same rectifier AC terminal.

Originally Posted by R Moulding
67 had a rotary type switch but the later 88sa (i think thats the number) that does not switch the coils of the alternator.

There are two different 88SA rotary switches - ignition and lighting - fitted originally from '62.

Wiring "that cuts in extra charging coils when the HL is turned ON" is pre-'66 and needs the (non-standard in '67) 3-position 88SA rotary ignition switch as well as the rotary lighting switch.

The only other outside possibility here is a p.o. has connected non-standard wires from rotary lighting switch terminals #5 and #7 to other non-standard places on the bike. facepalm

Originally Posted by RF Whatley
The addition of the Tymp may have been done incorrectly

If the Tymp has replaced the rectifier - alternator White/Green wire connected to one Tymp Yellow wire, alternator Green/Yellow and Green/Black wires connected to the other Tymp Yellow wire, Tymp Brown wire to bike Brown/White, Tymp Red wire to battery +ve, Zener diode disconnected - it's been wired correctly.

Originally Posted by RF Whatley
if your bike has the toggle headlamp switch, then it may still have the 3-wire alternator,

The standard-for-'67 88SA rotary lighting switch was replaced by the 3-position 57SA toggle lighting switch from '68. The standard-for-'67 3-wire RM19 stator was replaced by the (more powerful) 2-wire RM21 from '69.

Hth.

Regards,

Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741058 07/07/18 4:34 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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Originally Posted by RF Whatley
The details of the 1967 electrical system now escape me. If you have the rotary headlamp switch then that cuts in extra charging coils when the HL is turned ON.

If Mike's bike is correct for the "67" of the thread title, it should have:-

. S45 key-operated on/off ignition switch - in the sidepanel;

. 3-position 88SA rotary lighting switch, on the headlamp shell;

. 3-wire single-phase RM19 alternator stator, originally encapsulated if the engine number is DU58565 or higher;

. stator Green/Yellow and Green/Black wires connected to the same Tympanium Yellow wire - those stator wires were originally connected to the same rectifier AC terminal.





The bike most definitely is the sidepanel ignition switch, with a rotary switch on the headlight.


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741060 07/07/18 4:43 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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I added a pic to this album that might help a bit. It is the cloth wrapped wire that seems to come up from the motor and around the frame to the sidepanel and battery area. I tried to take a close up of the wires that are coming up out of the cloth bundle. Does that give any useful insight?
https://www.triumphrat.net/members/albums/62616-open1mind/1967-bonneville-rectifier-huh-24852.html

In the interest of one change a time, I will swap out the archaic glass tube fuse in the next day or two. That should be within my narrow skills band without leading to any radioactive materials being released into my garage. I checked the glass fuse that is in there now- it is 15A. Does that sound like the right call for a blade style replacement?

Note there was some corrosion on both ends of the fuse- and I see some in the holder that I cant really get to. There was some similar light corrosion on the Positive battery terminal which I filed off. Likely not the culprit, but I am trying to be methodical.

If the fuse holder doesnt improve things, then I might swap out the Tymp R/R and ask for some coaching on how to wire it appropriately.

I am really hoping that I dont need to pull the primary off to get at the alternator.

Thanks again to all....


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741066 07/07/18 5:52 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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WOW- that was easy!

I just cleaned off the fuse that was sitting in the tube style holder, and fired the bike up. Instant success. 14+ volts charging with lights off, 13.8 or 13.9 with the lights on ! Boom!

I will take 0% of the credit on this one. I will also take the advice to ditch that fuse holder and to put a more modern blade style on in this week.

Now, on to more trouble (changing all of the fluids, torquing the heads since it was likely not done after rebuild, tracking down some oil leaks etc)

Thanks to all.


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741146 07/08/18 11:42 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Mike,

Originally Posted by zxmikez
checked the glass fuse that is in there now- it is 15A. Does that sound like the right call for a blade style replacement?

thumbsup

Originally Posted by zxmikez
just cleaned off the fuse that was sitting in the tube style holder, and fired the bike up. Instant success. 14+ volts charging with lights off, 13.8 or 13.9 with the lights on !

Excellent! thumbsup

Originally Posted by zxmikez
I will also take the advice to ditch that fuse holder and to put a more modern blade style on in this week.

Thoughts:-

. Judging from your pictures, the harness isn't original (it's too clean and the wire colours are too bright smile ).

. The existing fuse/holder appears to have Brown/Blue wires out of it (and it's attached to the battery -ve terminal)?

. If so, fuse is in the wrong place (electrically rather than physically). '67 had it originally between battery +ve and the bike, where it can also protect against a fairly common type of short-circuit, that a fuse in the Brown/Blue can't protect against. facepalm

If I haven't mistaken the fuse position/wire colours, when changing the fuse/holder for a blade type, if you'd like to move it too, post and I'll post the detail.

Hth.

Regards,

Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741221 07/08/18 10:39 pm
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tiumphdave Offline
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There was a discussion awhile back about '67 650 harnesses, and someone knowledgeable and experienced ("RPM"?) said that nos harnesses from this year came taped, end to end. I have seen 2 used harnesses since then and both were taped with no sign of cloth. Not proof positive, and I've yet to check an original machine.

Now I'll be looking at the color of the fused wire.

Seems there's always something keep it interesting.

Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: zxmikez] #741243 07/09/18 2:39 am
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RF Whatley Offline
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Mike -
Here's the type fuse holder I'm talking about... Hooded Flat Pack Fuse Holder. These commonly come with red, yellow or black leads coming out, depending upon the manufacturer. I make an effort to look for the ones with RED leads, and then crimp on 1/4" ring lugs on each end. Then you're set up to run between the Positive battery post, and the positive common ground point, which on your bike seems to be one of the bolts which mount the Tymp rectifier-regulator.

Stuart is correct. When there's a short, it's the battery that's going to do all the damage becasue it can release something like 100A in a burst. Therefore, ATM fuses such as 15A and 20A will work very well in this situation. Lower and you'll get nuisance blowing; higher and the fuse's response time slows.

There's a product called No-Ox-Id you can get on Amazon that will stop all the terminal corrosion you're experiencing. I put it on all the bullet connectors before plugging them together. It even works on battery terminals. Wonderful stuff. Lots of the woes experienced in Lucas systems can be contributed to simple terminal corrosion. Between the washing and riding in the rain, corrosion is just a fact of life on a motorcycle. The smallest container you can get is enough to do maybe 10 motorcycles.

Try that. thumbsup


PS. The next original part to give trouble is the (electrical portion of the) ignition switch. If your switch is original on either machine, replace them.


Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!

RF Whatley
Cornelia, GA
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: tiumphdave] #741292 07/09/18 3:40 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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Originally Posted by tiumphdave
There was a discussion awhile back about '67 650 harnesses, and someone knowledgeable and experienced ("RPM"?) said that nos harnesses from this year came taped, end to end. I have seen 2 used harnesses since then and both were taped with no sign of cloth. Not proof positive, and I've yet to check an original machine.

Now I'll be looking at the color of the fused wire.

Seems there's always something keep it interesting.



Interesting, yes. In my strike zone to start replacing the entire harness--- not this guy. I am pretty relieved to have gotten this far without any bloodshed, so since the bike is charging, the fuse probably my next and final step!


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: Stuart] #741293 07/09/18 3:42 pm
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zxmikez Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Stuart
Hi Mike,

Originally Posted by zxmikez
checked the glass fuse that is in there now- it is 15A. Does that sound like the right call for a blade style replacement?

thumbsup

Originally Posted by zxmikez
just cleaned off the fuse that was sitting in the tube style holder, and fired the bike up. Instant success. 14+ volts charging with lights off, 13.8 or 13.9 with the lights on !

Excellent! thumbsup

Originally Posted by zxmikez
I will also take the advice to ditch that fuse holder and to put a more modern blade style on in this week.

Thoughts:-

. Judging from your pictures, the harness isn't original (it's too clean and the wire colours are too bright smile ).

. The existing fuse/holder appears to have Brown/Blue wires out of it (and it's attached to the battery -ve terminal)?

YES

. If so, fuse is in the wrong place (electrically rather than physically). '67 had it originally between battery +ve and the bike, where it can also protect against a fairly common type of short-circuit, that a fuse in the Brown/Blue can't protect against. facepalm

AGREED

If I haven't mistaken the fuse position/wire colours, when changing the fuse/holder for a blade type, if you'd like to move it too, post and I'll post the detail.

Hth.

Regards,



So based upon other bikes that I have seen and owned, and the consensus here- the fuse needs to move to the + battery wire. I will try to neatly and correctly reconnect the Brown/Blue wire back together, and put the improved fuse design into that spot.


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
Re: 67T120 What is this??? [Re: RF Whatley] #741295 07/09/18 3:51 pm
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 83
zxmikez Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
OP Offline
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 83
Originally Posted by RF Whatley
Mike -
Here's the type fuse holder I'm talking about... Hooded Flat Pack Fuse Holder. These commonly come with red, yellow or black leads coming out, depending upon the manufacturer. I make an effort to look for the ones with RED leads, and then crimp on 1/4" ring lugs on each end. Then you're set up to run between the Positive battery post, and the positive common ground point, which on your bike seems to be one of the bolts which mount the Tymp rectifier-regulator.

Stuart is correct. When there's a short, it's the battery that's going to do all the damage becasue it can release something like 100A in a burst. Therefore, ATM fuses such as 15A and 20A will work very well in this situation. Lower and you'll get nuisance blowing; higher and the fuse's response time slows.

There's a product called No-Ox-Id you can get on Amazon that will stop all the terminal corrosion you're experiencing. I put it on all the bullet connectors before plugging them together. It even works on battery terminals. Wonderful stuff. Lots of the woes experienced in Lucas systems can be contributed to simple terminal corrosion. Between the washing and riding in the rain, corrosion is just a fact of life on a motorcycle. The smallest container you can get is enough to do maybe 10 motorcycles.

Try that. thumbsup


PS. The next original part to give trouble is the (electrical portion of the) ignition switch. If your switch is original on either machine, replace them.



Great minds, or at least your mind, thinks alike. I just ordered a holder and some assorted connections as you describe above. I have been putting this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2 on electrical connections to fight corrosion/moisture. Does it get accomplish the msame job? I have a "lifetime supply" in my tool box and it would likely contaminate a lot of ground water if I discard it!

The ignition switch sure LOOKS shiny and new, and the mechanism works with a tight and definable "click". So, I probably will not tackle that one unless I get more indications of a problem. How is that for optimistic!

BTW, getting to that ignition switch might mean removing the sidecover. Who/What designed the process of removing the sidecover on this bike!? I gave up after looking at the challenge of getting wrenches into the back of it to loosen and then re tighten the nuts and bolts that hold it on. Is there a trick that everyone uses? Love them or hate them, my hinckley triumph now has a thumb screw and and I can get them off in 20 seconds. Progress, but at the cost of nostalgia, yes?


1967 Bonneville
1979 Suzuki GS 1000e
2010 Triumph Thruxton
2014 Indian Chief Vintage
1969 BSA Lightning
1986 Honda VFR 750 Interceptor
1958 Indian Trailblazer
1977 Harley XLCR
1968 Triumph 250 Trophy Trail
1964 Suzuki t10 250 two stroke
2015 Kawasaki KLR 650
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