My thought is to open the mounting holes in the stator up a bit to gain some wiggle room.
'Fraid that's a crap idea; the stator will just "wiggle" down 'til the tops of at least two of the holes are sitting on the tops of the studs.
'Fraid the stator holes are a tight fit on the studs for a reason ...
Fwiw, I use a similar method to Ginge, although I use half-a-dozen bits of aluminium of the correct thickness, sticking out well beyond the face of the stator/rotor so I've got plenty to grab to pull 'em out when the job's done.
The stator can't be moved relative to the rotor with the rotor in place on the crank; the gap between it and the stator is too small to move the studs and let them 'spring' back.
I assemble rotor, shims and stator off the bike and then offer the whole assembly to the crank and stator studs - that immediately shows which studs don't line up with stator holes and which direction the stud/s need/s to move. What you're aiming for is the assembly to slide on to crank and all three stator studs without pushing any of the latter sideways; fitting the assembly, removing it, moving a stud, repeat is tedious but, if you don't do it any stud/s is/are pushed over fitting the assembly, when you remove the shims, the pushed stud(s) will just move the stator relative to the rotor.