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Cliff R Offline OP
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hi, new to heat guns
like to explore heating alloy engine cases, studs, nuts and other parts on Triumph
to remove bearings, free up stubborn studs nuts and other
is bbq cylinder LPG/LP/Propane ok?
any particular head/gun recommended?
like to avoid damage/melting parts
thks cliff

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I manage with a ryobi paint removal gun 2k

Last edited by AngloBike; 06/15/18 2:04 pm.
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Two speed electric. Propane and mapp gas are way too hot.


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Any advice given is without a warranty expressed or implied.
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Propane/butane is good. Be sensible and you won’t damage anything.

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I use the oven set on about 210-220 degrees F...Put cases in warm oven bearing side down, it's done when you hear the clunk of the bearings falling out...Remove any studs at the same time...Cool at room temperature, serve with a garnish of cash and a pinch of profanity


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Plus 1 for HB's post. Plus Plus 1 for 220F!!!!

It is about even heating of the whole casting vs local heating. This is especially true when removing and installing bearings.

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Wait a minute. That could get too expensive. You have to take your PO'd wife out for date afterward for stinking up the house.

Cheers,
Bill

Last edited by HawaiianTiger; 06/17/18 7:32 pm.

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Originally Posted by HawaiianTiger
Wait a minute. That's could get too expensive. You have to take your PO'd wife out for date afterward for stinking up the house.

Cheers,
Bill

Not at all....She doesn't mind me using the kitchen oven and some odor...But that doesn't mean I don't have to take her out.... grin

She's a better engine builder than me anyways...


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79 T140D, 96 900M Ducati ,61 A10 .On a bike you can out run the demons..
“But I don't want to go among mad people,” Alice remarked. “Oh, you can't help that,” said the Cat: “we're all mad here. I'm mad. You're mad.
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Cliff R Offline OP
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thks everyone

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Line the oven tray with alfoil, catches any oil running with the heat, use welding gloves to handle the cases when hot. Actually alfoil is good for many things, I've welded up bikes with electrics and motors still in the bike...used alfoil to mask the area first. Its cheap and easy to get at any supermarket.

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Cliff,

I use the gas BBQ with the hood down. Anything else is, frankly, un-Australian.

I freeze bearings and heat cases. Has always worked. I've never had to use heat to remove nuts or bolts but a small LPG torch should be hot enough.


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I had to replace the high gear bearing once on a T140 with the engine in the frame (clutch, primary drive, sprocket, and gear cluster removed). I borrowed a 200 degree "temp stick" (kind of like a crayon that melts at a specific temperature), and went round and round the bearing slowly with a propane torch with a rosebud tip, periodically testing with the temp stick. It took about 15 minutes to get the case around the bearing up to temp, and I could have pushed the bearing out with my fingers.

This is pretty specific to this bearing; I can't think of any other bearings you would be able to change without having the crankcase out and split, but I wanted to point out that it is possible to heat with a torch if necessary.



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I got all my case bearings out like that. I didn’t use a temp stitch though.

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...tony, you have a gal that let you wrench all day and then also participate?...beyond incredible.

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Fernando, there really are some understanding sheilas like that around . But we civilised blokes have an oven in our workshop, and that really impresses the ladies when you take them there to view your micrometer collection !

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....mate, may be on your side not here; also the surfer gals have too much testosterone for my taste.

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Originally Posted by John Healy
Plus 1 for HB's post. Plus Plus 1 for 220F!!!!
It is about even heating of the whole casting vs local heating. This is especially true when removing and installing bearings.
For what it's worth, my preferred method is to bring a large tub with water to a boil on the BBQ with the cases in it. The slow rise time of the water temperature ensures uniform heating and, unlike the dial on a stove, the boiling point of water (207 oF at my altitude) is accurately self-calibrated. The 13 oF lower temperature than 220 oF means a 1" section of Al will expand by 0.00017" less than it would at that higher temperature, which should be negligible even if an oven's dial is accurately calibrated, which it almost certainly is not, and if the temperature throughout the oven is uniform, which it also almost certainly is not.

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I am firmly of the opinion that the 100°c was put into the original manuals because 50's/60's triumph workshops wouldn't have had a torque wrench or infra red thermometer, they all had a kettle for a brew. You can't fcuk up a component in a tub of hot water.

A place I used to visit used a gas welding kit to make tea


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