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Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738483
06/12/18 7:04 am
06/12/18 7:04 am
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 95
England
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George Kaplan Offline
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England
Bravo Magnetoman and well done for exercising caution with regards to the oiling and averting possible disaster.

I bet you were very pleased and relieved and I am betting that you were able to explain to Mrs Magnetoman over dinner that:

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
It's taken me a year to take a complete, running motorcycle and turn it into, er, um, a complete running motorcycle...


In fact, based on a previous comment that your good wife has made about you rebuilding this bike I expect that Mrs Magnetoman was more excited than you about the news. smile

John

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Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738489
06/12/18 9:21 am
06/12/18 9:21 am
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,246
Scotland
S
Stuart Online content
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Scotland
Hi,

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
I would have made a more serious bolt but I found Ariel's is threaded 1/2"-19 so it's some uncommon (for me) British parallel pipe thread

1/4"BSP? Although its major diameter is officially 0.518" ...

Regards,

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738517
06/12/18 5:09 pm
06/12/18 5:09 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by George Kaplan
I expect that Mrs Magnetoman was more excited than you about the news.
When I mentioned the Ariel was now ready to take for a ride, but I wanted her to be home in case I needed rescue (the ramps are already in the back of the pickup, just in case) she replied "Oh, jeez, why don't you ever plan a ride on a bike that doesn't need me to rescue you?"

Unfortunately, my wife has several appointments this morning, by the time she's home I have my appointment at the gym, and by the time I'm home it will be at the day's high of 104 oF, so the official launch has to wait until tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Stuart
1/4"BSP? Although its major diameter is officially 0.518" ...
Yes, it must be that. My original plan was to make a duplicate of the Ariel banjo bolt but with a port to which I could attach a vacuum pump or vacuum gauge. However, shortly after hatching that plan I realized having a digital manometer mounted next to the sight glass goes against my goal of using only age-appropriate technology on this bike except where essential (e.g. modern tires).

I made a quick measurement of the ~1/2" OD of the Ariel bolt but by the time I found it was 19 tpi, and thus BSPP, I had decided on a different plan for depressurizing just the oil line (vs. the oil line plus pump) for which it would be quicker to just modify an old 1/2" bolt. A proper banjo substitute couldn't be made the way I made it because the threads under the nut couldn't be properly sealed. But, since they only had to hold back less than 1 psi, and then for only a minute or so, grease would be fine. Never let perfection get in the way of 'good enough'.

Given the crude nature of things, I simply drilled a hole through the length of the bolt and plugged one end of that hole with a 5/16" bolt. Yes, I could have saved a little time had I not drilled all the way, but I used a tap drill for 5/16" to make the hole so tapping only took maybe another minute. Plus, this gave me the option of using that hole for something clever like a digital manometer should I decide to do so. Rather than deploying micrometers and gauge blocks to do it accurately, I held the bolt, washer and O-ring against the fitting and marked the location of the center with a red paint pen and drilled a hole perpendicular to the bolt to connect to the hole through the bolt.

Although the threads in the 1/2" bolt alone would have allowed oil to flow from the line into the center of the bolt, to reduce the restriction I took the time to machine a groove around it. Then, in keeping with the spirit of crudeness, but quickness, I epoxied washers to the bolt and nut rather than soldering them. O-rings sealed the washers against the two flat surfaces of the oil line fitting, and grease kept air from leaking through the threads under the nut. It worked great.

Having discovered I don't have any BSPP taps or dies I'll need to get them in the 1/16", 1/8", and 1/2" sizes likely to be found on motorcycles. A quick check of eBay showed cheap Chinese ones in carbon steel but I'll look further until I can find them in HSS.

Attached Files BanjoBolt.jpg
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738518
06/12/18 5:44 pm
06/12/18 5:44 pm
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,514
New Jersey USA
Tridentman Offline

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New Jersey USA
Try Tracy Tools in UK.
Good quality and good service.
Recommended.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738521
06/12/18 6:05 pm
06/12/18 6:05 pm
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 14
Billings Montana USA
dTalknMT Offline
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Billings Montana USA
Howdy MM and rest.....been missing this forum about a week as I've ridden my noncannonball compliant scooter down to Illinois, near St Louis to see my Mom. In catching up this morning I noticed the pix of the handlebars/controls....GPS holder/bracket ? Just in case you missed it on the entry form.....'no GPS devices allowed'. And in the 'store' is an official motorcycle cannonball road book map holder that I believe everyone used in the 2014 MCB that I followed along with for a couple days. Due to your excellent attention to detail I doubt you've overlooked this but just in case....... possibly just swap the GPS mount for the map holder......;-)
Thumbed from my phone.....


TBDMC never ride faster than your angel can fly
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: dTalknMT] #738523
06/12/18 6:25 pm
06/12/18 6:25 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by Tridentman
Try Tracy Tools in UK.
Thanks for the recommendation. I didn't see BSPP on their web site just now but I have emailed them asking if they have HSS taps and dies in the three sizes[*] and, if so, the cost to get them to me.

Originally Posted by dTalknMT
Just in case you missed it on the entry form.....'no GPS devices allowed'. And in the 'store' is an official motorcycle cannonball road book map holder
Thanks for your note, but everything is on the up and up. The GPS holder is there for me to use only for the next few weeks to accurately calibrate the bicycle speedometer/odometer (which is legal) when I'm brave enough to venture out on a long run. And, the big, ugly black box in the center of my handlebars is the official map holder, which might look smaller and less ugly in the listing in the store. If (when) I can figure out how to mount the Chronometric and calibrate it I'll lose the bicycle unit. Others may have a different approach to the Cannonball, but my plan is to see if I can make it 4000 miles on a 90-year old motorcycle that I rebuilt myself and using only 90-year old technology (i.e. maps, not GPS).

[*]In the heat of battle yesterday I gave up when I measured 19 tpi, but in thinking about it this morning it didn't seem like me that I wouldn't already have BSPP taps and dies (although, it did seem like me that I might have forgotten...). So, I looked where they should be and found I have both taps and dies for 1/8 and 1/4 BSPP. I then found that the majority of petcocks in my box of old ones are 3/8 BSPP so I modified my request to Tracy to ask for the prices on 1/16 and 3/8 BSPP. I don't know where 1/16 might be used, but if the need ever comes up I'll have them. If I remember that I have them...

Last edited by Magnetoman; 06/12/18 8:10 pm. Reason: added [*]
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738539
06/12/18 9:06 pm
06/12/18 9:06 pm
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,442
ohio, usa
kevin roberts Online content

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ohio, usa
I Want More Pitchers

with all respect, your offerings so far of the machine as it currently sits are woefully inadequate.

your work is super. indulge your audience, please.



"Are bikes so nice as all that?" asked the mole, shyly...

"Nice? They're the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned forward on the handlebars. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about with bikes."
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738553
06/12/18 11:21 pm
06/12/18 11:21 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,103
Stone Creek OH USA
R
Rich B Offline
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Posts: 5,103
Stone Creek OH USA
90 year old navigation technology.......you sure a compass and sextant may not be more appropriate?

laughing

beerchug


Life is too short to drink cheap, bad beer.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Rich B] #738554
06/12/18 11:34 pm
06/12/18 11:34 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by kevin roberts
I Want More Pitchers
Patience. Patience. All good things come to those who wait. Or so I'm told. Personally, I'm more into instant gratification. However, assuming all goes well it will be out of the garage and on the road in the morning, which should provide several good photo ops.

Originally Posted by Rich B
90 year old navigation technology.......you sure a compass and sextant may not be more appropriate?
Sextant? No, nothing as modern as that. I want appropriate technology for the Ariel, so I'm building an astrolabe.



Attached Files Astrolabe.jpg
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738559
06/13/18 1:26 am
06/13/18 1:26 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,103
Stone Creek OH USA
R
Rich B Offline
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Rich B  Offline
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R

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Stone Creek OH USA
Astrolabe.......now we are talking navigational technology!

beerchug


Life is too short to drink cheap, bad beer.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738594
06/13/18 11:22 am
06/13/18 11:22 am
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 348
Irene, South Africa
robcurrie Offline
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Irene, South Africa
One important item that kickstarted world travels was an accurate timepiece, go buy yourself a nice new watch.

Rob C

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: robcurrie] #738610
06/13/18 3:55 pm
06/13/18 3:55 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by robcurrie
buy yourself a nice new watch.
"Watch"? Again, age inappropriate.

As I'm sure you know, at the time my Ariel left the factory the Britons had little more than Stonehenge for telling time, which was essentially a sundial. Unfortunately, mounting a sundial on the Ariel's tank would be just as problematic as mounting a Chronometric, with the gnomon perhaps more of a safety issue than Triumph's parcel grid, although getting the gearing correct would be relatively straightforward. Although a sundial would be much more robust than a Chronometric, certain issues of operating it on a moving vehicle would need to be sorted out and I'm not sure there would be time between now and the start of the Cannonball to do that..

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738618
06/13/18 5:06 pm
06/13/18 5:06 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,103
Stone Creek OH USA
R
Rich B Offline
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R

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Posts: 5,103
Stone Creek OH USA
Actually, a piece of rope with a knot tied every 5280 feet & an hourglass would be far more correct way of measuring speed of the Ariel instead of a chronometric speedo........

Just say in'

laughing


Life is too short to drink cheap, bad beer.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Rich B] #738623
06/13/18 6:03 pm
06/13/18 6:03 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Magnetoman  Online Content OP

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U.S.
Originally Posted by Rich B
would be far more correct way of measuring speed of the Ariel instead of a chronometric speedo........
Back in the day, mechanical watches were cleaned and lubricated annually to keep them functioning properly. The internal mechanism of a Chronometric is like that of a watch, which in turn obeys the equations of motion of a driven, damped pendulum.[*]. Since few Chronometrics have been lubricated for 60 years yours could be highly damped, which does affect its accuracy. Maybe it's time for some fresh oil.

[*]I have a particular fondness for Chronometrics. The same equations that describe it also describe superconducting Josephson junctions as well as oscillations of an electrical power grid being fed by multiple synchronized generators.



Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738677
06/14/18 2:50 am
06/14/18 2:50 am
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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My wife had arranged for some workmen to show up today so the maiden voyage of the Ariel is postponed until tomorrow. There was some progress, though, in the form of packages delivered with Cu screen for the inlet to the oil siphon and a case of AeroShell W80 Plus (SAE 40W).

I also ordered 3/8" BSPP taps and a die from Tracey Tools as well as a 9/16"-20 CEI taper tap to use when I make a 'magneto-like' nut for the mainshaft to compensate for the preload spacer I made for the spring. I already had a bottom tap in this size but the nut represents a lot of steel to cut through. I previously had bought a 9/16"-20 UN tap for this that would have been fine since CEI is only marginally different, but thought I might as well have the correct tap.

Tracy has a huge selection that, unfortunately, doesn't include a left-hand 9/16-20 for BSA fork legs. I made my own tap for my M21's fork legs 40 years ago so it will stay in the 'British' tap and die drawer.

Attached Files AeroShellW80Plus.jpg
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738693
06/14/18 6:48 am
06/14/18 6:48 am
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 95
England
G
George Kaplan Offline
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Posts: 95
England
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Tracy has a huge selection that, unfortunately, doesn't include a left-hand 9/16-20 for BSA fork legs. I made my own tap for my M21's fork legs 40 years ago so it will stay in the 'British' tap and die drawer.


Thats unfortunate as Tracy Tools usually have most hard to get taps and dies.

A quick search online shows that 9/16 x 20 left hand seems to be a bicycle crank size that are available in carbon steel from a few places including RDG Tools but you seem to have one in carbon steel already. However, with it being a bicycle crank size I was pretty sure HSS ones would be available and I did see a HSS tap offered by a vendor in Australia but at AU $64 plus shipping I suspect that your current tap will do fine for now unless you can find one closer to home.

George.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738705
06/14/18 11:12 am
06/14/18 11:12 am
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,862
Sydney Australia
B
BSA_WM20 Offline
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Sydney Australia
I am fairly sure BSPT is the odd one out.
BSPP is the standard BSP profile so unless noted otherwise a BSP tap or die will be BSPP.

Everything I have is either labled BSP or BSPT .


Bike Beesa
Trevor
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: BSA_WM20] #738744
06/14/18 6:58 pm
06/14/18 6:58 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by George Kaplan
I suspect that your current tap will do fine for now unless you can find one closer to home.
My current home-made tap worked fine the one time I needed it 40 years ago so I'm not in a rush to find a replacement (the M21 I needed it for is still in a thousand pieces so clearly I'm not in a hurry...). However, Tracy's web site reminded me of that left-hand tap so it got my hopes up I could get a proper replacement, then it dashed them.

Originally Posted by BSA_WM20
unless noted otherwise a BSP tap or die will be BSPP.
Indeed, Tracy confirmed that the "BSP" on their web site is "BSPP."

As for riding, I'm still at the mercy of my wife's schedule. Until I gain confidence in the bike I don't want to risk being on a ride, having a problem or expensive noise develop, and then have to choose between abandoning it on the side of the road and walking home in the 105 oF heat, or risk serious damage by continuing to ride it. So, while she was gone this morning I limited myself to a half-dozen laps of the driveway.

Note to self: stop the Ariel on gravel, not on the driveway, and buy kitty litter for the oil puddles that form when I forget to do that. If Hansel and Gretel had ridden an Ariel into the woods it would have automatically left a bird-proof trail for them to follow back to their house.

There's a significant enough delay between changing the bleed valve setting and seeing a response that I didn't have enough time to find the sweet spot between having full flow, or having no drops. But, I think I'm going to be quite happy with the high gearing I have on the bike. I only had it in first today, and it definitely is high, but not so high that, with a bit of clutch, slow speed maneuvering was difficult. It reminds me of the high gearing I have on my C15S in Ireland (calculated redline would be 84 mph) in order to keep up with the boys on 500s on highway stretches. Navigating the heavy traffic in town on the C15S is no problem with it, again with a bit of clutch. Not slipping the clutch, but using it as an on/off switch for the power to the rear wheel in order to move at a trials-bike pace between stopped cars to get to the front of queues at stoplights.

I'm relieved that 1st on the Ariel isn't too high for practicality because the large 22T sprocket I put on the gearbox will give 56 mph at half of redline. It sounds like there might be only a few places we'll reach speeds that high so the gearing I have on it should make for an easy pace for the engine.

Since it isn't looking good for a ride tomorrow I have the Ariel back on the lift. I have yet to wire the headlight, and I might use the opportunity to pull the oil pump out and make a serious effort to disassemble it in order to inspect the internals.

And, to make Kevin Roberts happy, a few pictures:

Attached Files Ariel_R01.jpgAriel_R02.jpgAriel_L01.jpg
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738754
06/14/18 10:25 pm
06/14/18 10:25 pm
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,739
OZ
Triless Online content
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OZ
That looks really nice, MM !

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738758
06/14/18 11:30 pm
06/14/18 11:30 pm
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,442
ohio, usa
kevin roberts Online content

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ohio, usa
Originally Posted by Magnetoman

And, to make Kevin Roberts happy, a few pictures:



you have succeeded, too.

that whole thing is a very handsome motorcycle. a nearly hundred-year old machine is not something that i am used to seeing, and having followed this thread to see what the insides look like make it even more interesting.

very good work.



"Are bikes so nice as all that?" asked the mole, shyly...

"Nice? They're the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned forward on the handlebars. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about with bikes."
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738780
06/15/18 9:02 am
06/15/18 9:02 am
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,246
Scotland
S
Stuart Online content
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Stuart  Online Content
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Posts: 10,246
Scotland
Hi,

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
I previously had bought a 9/16"-20 UN tap for this that would have been fine since CEI is only marginally different,

Are you sure? That isn't my experience of Cycle and UNEF threads at larger diameters ...

Before '69, Triumph used 20 tpi Cycle thread on the front spindle brake plate nut, '69-on they used 20 tpi UNEF; before '70, Triumph used Cycle threads in rear hubs, 20 tpi at 3/4" and 7/8" major diameters, '70-on they used 20 tpi UNEF on the latter; ime, male and female Cycle and UNEF threads aren't interchangeable, even though both are the same major diameter and 20 tpi.

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Tracy has a huge selection that, unfortunately, doesn't include a left-hand 9/16-20 for BSA fork legs.

Originally Posted by George Kaplan
9/16 x 20 left hand seems to be a bicycle crank size

thumbsup Pushbike pedal cranks commonly use both left- and right-hand 9/16" CEI/BSC. Being in the middle of a National Park and all that healthy human-powered sport-'n'-rec., there are several pushbike hirers/fixers nearby; would you like me to enquire where they get taps 'n' dies from?

Hth.

Regards,

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738809
06/15/18 3:32 pm
06/15/18 3:32 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by Triless
That looks really nice, MM !
Originally Posted by kevin roberts
that whole thing is a very handsome motorcycle. a nearly hundred-year old machine
Judging by one of Triumph's latest offerings, everything old is new again.

Originally Posted by Stuart
That isn't my experience of Cycle and UNEF threads at larger diameters ...
Although both are 60-deg., the rounded roots and crests would leave material on a nut tapped with CEI that would interfere with using it on a UN bolt, but not vice versa. This means a nut tapped UN should fit fine on the Ariel's CEI mainshaft. Although the threads on the end of the Ariel's crankshaft are hidden now, after the 11/16-20 BSC tap arrives from Tracy and I make the nut, and the next time have the primary off to install it, I'll try to remember to tap a piece of scrap with the UN tap and will report back with how it fits vs. the one made with the proper tap.

Originally Posted by Magnetoman
would you like me to enquire where they get taps 'n' dies from?
Please don't go out of your way, but if you happen by a shop it would be nice to know. Thanks. Offline someone sent me a link to a U.S. bike shop supplier that lists 9/16-20 as a set of L and R taps, but in addition to having the R tap that I don't need they don't say what thread form they have. But, on a 10-point scale of my priorities, getting a proper 9/16-20 left-hand tap rates somewhere around a 1. If I go to the expense and trouble of getting it the odds of me ever needing to use it are pretty close to 0. Of course, if I don't get it...

Attached Files ArielTriumphBlackBobber.jpgCEI_UN.jpg
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738843
06/15/18 10:40 pm
06/15/18 10:40 pm
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,442
ohio, usa
kevin roberts Online content

DOPE
kevin roberts  Online Content

DOPE

Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,442
ohio, usa
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Judging by one of Triumph's latest offerings, everything old is new again.



i don't have any issues with old styling coming back, but the contrived falseness of things like fake carburetors and fake inspection covers kill it for me.

[Linked Image]

the originals looked the way they did because their mechanical nature controlled much of their appearance. the monoblocs looked that way because they worked that way. the trap doors werent decoration-- there erre things inside you needed to get at. your ariel comes from a design era where the parts weren't tweaked cosmetically to look like something else-- they were what they were. the proof of that is that your machine mattered enough to probably four generations of serious owners to still be around after close to 100 years.

i don't think a 2018 bonneville designed to look like a 1970 bonneville will have that sort of lasting value.

ann murray was a fox, wasn't she? beautiful voice.



"Are bikes so nice as all that?" asked the mole, shyly...

"Nice? They're the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned forward on the handlebars. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about with bikes."
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738859
06/16/18 1:45 am
06/16/18 1:45 am
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,514
New Jersey USA
Tridentman Offline

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New Jersey USA
Just as a pure rivet counting comment---the UK registration letters/numbers on the front fender of the Ariel are the size for rear number plates.
The letters/numbers for front usage are smaller in height.
I will now crawl back into my shell!

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #738868
06/16/18 4:34 am
06/16/18 4:34 am
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

BritBike Forum member
Magnetoman  Online Content OP

BritBike Forum member

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,741
U.S.
Originally Posted by Tridentman
Just as a pure rivet counting comment---the UK registration letters/numbers on the front fender of the Ariel are the size for rear number plates.
This here's Amer'ca, son, ever'thing's bigger'n Amer'ca. Actually, I bought the biggest letters that would fit. I didn't even try to match UK size..

Using the rear stand is a real pain in the back so a side-stand would be a very welcome addition. However, because it wasn't clear there would be room for a side stand I decided to gamble on an inexpensive "universal" clamp-on stand direct from India (rather than a marked-up Indian side stand from a domestic supplier). It arrived today, amazingly fast, and aside from the extra metal I got for free, which keeps it from retracting all the way, it looks like I'll be able to clamp it on the frame behind the primary case. A grinder will deal with the extra metal.

I machined a clamp from a block of 1/2" Al for disassembling the oil pump, using a 5/8" reamer to accurately size it to the oil pump body prior to slitting it. With the clamp the "cap" on the oil pump came off without a problem and the photograph below is the only photograph I'm aware of of the internals of a Black Ariel oil pump.

The pump has two chambers, and the one at the right has two IDs. At the far right the bore is ~0.408" to provide clearance for the spring and 0.406" OD collar that's brazed on the shaft. To the right of the collar the OD of the shaft is ~0.283" and to the left it is ~0.312". The collar serves to compress the spring and it has a slot in it to equalize the pressure on both sides. What appears to be a pin near the top of the collar is actually a metal chip that I flicked out of there with a tiny pick after taking the photograph. However, it's hard to get a reasonable photograph through a microscope eyepiece when hand-holding an iPhone so I don't have a good photo of the slot after I cleaned it out.

Movement of the shaft forces oil (and air) past a spring-loaded one-way valve into the chamber at the left of the pump, and from there it travels into the oilway of the engine. The shaft is ~5/16"-dia and the outlet hole is 1/8"-dia. so the increase in pressure is the ratio of those two, squared, i.e. 6.25x. That is, if there is no leakage past the shaft.

The working end of the shaft is at the left in the photograph and can be seen to be polished. Its OD is 0.31155"-0.31170" at different points around it. The oil pump body reduces in ID from ~0.408" at the right to ~0.3127" starting 0.936" below the threaded end of the body. Setting a split ball micrometer to the average diameter of the rod, 0.31160", shows the clearance between the rod and body is 0.0010"-0.0011". The bore of the bottom portion of right-hand chamber of the oil pump, where the pumping action takes place, feels a bit rough when the split ball gauge is inserted.

At, say 1200 rpm engine (600 strokes/min. of oil pump) the pump makes 10 strokes/sec. However, the correct oil flow is ~1 drop/6 seconds so the pump makes 60 strokes between each drop of oil. This means the pump mainly moves air. As an air pump a 0.001" clearance seems excessive. However, the bore of the (soft) bronze housing is within 0.0002" of being 5/16" while the (hard) steel shaft is undersize, implying those are the diameters the parts had when the pump was assembled (at the factory, or re-assembled by some rebuilder).

It's too late to order anything for delivery on Saturday, but my thought as of this evening is to buy precision 5/16" drill rod (+0, -0.0003"), in case that works for a new rod, as well as 0.316", in case some machining is needed to get the proper clearance. Meanwhile, I'll research what clearance I should aim for. Precision microsurgery may be required to get the pump properly refurbished, in which case I'll also get my first experience with blind hole honing. I'm glad I bought the Sunnen hone this spring because it gives me options I may well need to do this job correctly.

Attached Files SideStand.jpgOilPump_disassembled.jpgOilPumprod.jpg
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