I was looking at a long standing bike in a local shop yesterday, and took a few photos to send a friend. After I opened them at home, it is obvious the engine number is "suspicious"! I'm not a Matchless guy, and have no books on them. I thought I'd post on this board to see what comments you might have. Obviously not a factory stamping, but I wondered if it would even be in the correct Format or series for this model. Shop owner refers to it as a '53 G80, and that is in the number,............... that is odd in my opinion to start with. Is it normal to have '53 year in the number? -------------------------------- BTW, the preview function does not show the photos. So are they attached or not? That's why there are 2 here, not intentional.
Last edited by KC in S.B.; 04/06/173:27 pm. Reason: Didn't want 2 same photos. Preview does not show them.
Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy Oops,.. add 1 Sporty
Not unusual to have the 53 year in the engine number for AJS and Matchless. The number on the engine of my G3L started with 49/G3L. I am considering buying a AJS model 20, and the engine number has the prefix 53/20XXX.
Peter. 1974 Commando 850 1972 Trident T150T 1961 Goldie DBD34 1969 Benelli 250 sport special
hi.rather "odd" spacing. The year (53) is first and usually slightly higher than rest of line. Could be replacement cases , restamped. But stamps are GOOD with the tail of the five and three showing the enlarged dot /also top of two. Very difficult to fake as modern stamps are not this style.Just been to wshop to look at my two G80 and both similar stamps but take only two thirds the space
I have a few Matchless and worked on a few, IMHO those numbers look totally legit to me. Font, spacing and layout is typical and consistent with ones I have and have seen on others. But, you COULD contact the AJS/Matchless club and ask their opinion?? Their website is excellent, and in general very helpful folks based on my experience. I used to run into and kind of know the former US president of the AJS/Matchless club as well. My pal Hal was neighbors with him in Alaska as well. I would love to have one of the late 40s or early 50s rigid frame models, I have a 1961 G80CS Typhoon, but thats a completely different beast.
That set of numbers in itself looks legit enough - year/model number It should actually be a G80S though, not just a G80 (The S indicates springer, so its a jampot rear suspension model).
BUT, it looks a bit like it is overstamped over something previous, (or the apprentice used some muscle in the stamping, and parts of the actual stamp have also appeared) AND usually the S is smaller and up a little, AND the year/model are usually spaced away from the number a bit.
So it is a tad suspicious, but should be perfectly acceptable to registering authorities. ??
Last edited by Rohan; 05/09/1810:00 pm. Reason: Springer model
Hi, I tend to agree with what has been said so far.I agree that number may have been stamped on a Friday afternoon, or by an over exuberant apprentice, and possibly stamped over something else. That ‘S’ is smaller than the rest, though slightly lighter in the impression(?). The possibilities are many and 65 years can hold a lot of secrets... That said I would have no fear in owning her!
Well, why not contact the Matchless/AJS owners club and find out for sure if you serious. I joined 2 nights ago, was not very expensive, and I have now full access to ALL their tech articles, as well as discounts on their parts deals (Spares scheme) and best of all,,,a big fat discount on having my machines verified by the dating officer. I have several matchless projects and I like to get all my ducks in a row before working on them, plus, If I keel over tomorrow my wife can sell them with full documentation and that makes in the long run, they are worth more if ever sold.
I know a Lawyer who used to say "If people would ask for a lawyers advice BEFORE they did something, its way cheaper than to hire one after you have a problem" Same goes for purchasing a vintage vehicle. Might save yourself a load of money and headache by having a machine verified first or evaluated by a FPI (First Person Inspection) by a knowledgeable expert. posting it here is probably helpful, and we all hope we get the best advice and knowledge but a smart man said on another forum that free advice on the internet is worth half of what you paid for it.