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1969 BSA B44 rewiring #734672
05/09/18 10:29 pm
05/09/18 10:29 pm
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Springdale, UT, USA
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Bill Weyher Offline OP
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Bill Weyher  Offline OP
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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Springdale, UT, USA
I am jumping in with my first post to this forum. I have a '69 B44 Victor that I am rewiring with a new harness. The old harness was trashed and unusable. The harness I have is set up for an ammeter in the headlight. My bike did not have one. Here is my problem I have both a brown blue wire and a brown white wire which should connect to either side of the ammeter. With out the ammeter I figured that I could just connect the brown blue to the brown white and make them common. When I do this the fuse blows. If I connect a load between the two (tail light bulb) the fuse does not blow and all the lights and horn to work as they should. Brown blue connected to is (-) battery terminal, horn and light switch, brown white connected to ignition switch, zener diode, and middle terminal of the rectifier. What am I missing? I want to hook it up without the ammeter or an artificial load.

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Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #734677
05/09/18 11:18 pm
05/09/18 11:18 pm
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,076
Scotland
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Stuart Online content
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Stuart  Online Content
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,076
Scotland
Hi Bill,

Welcome to the Forum. smile

Originally Posted by Bill Weyher
Brown blue connected to is (-) battery terminal, horn and light switch,

"light switch" is wrong. As your post says, "both a brown blue wire and a brown white wire which should connect to either side of the ammeter"; so why would you connect the Brown/Blue to the light switch? confused The lighting switch is supplied from the ignition switch.

Connect the two ammeter terminals together, insulate the connection and then see what happens.

If that doesn't fix the problem, you've connected something else up wrong or you've got a dud component. frown Ammeter doesn't have any resistance, so it can't be a "load", so leaving it out and joining its wire terminals together is the same electrically.

Hth.

Regards,

Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #734682
05/10/18 1:04 am
05/10/18 1:04 am
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Springdale, UT, USA
B
Bill Weyher Offline OP
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Bill Weyher  Offline OP
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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Springdale, UT, USA
No Slugo I am daft I thought I posted to the BSA board. I will be posting again soon here as I drag out the old Bonneville.

Stewart thanks that is helpful. The brown blue is the only hot lead I have in the headlamp housing. I will recheck everything and try again.

Best regards.

Bill Weyher

Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #734701
05/10/18 6:17 am
05/10/18 6:17 am
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 680
Sunny Sussex, UK
tbird649 Offline
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tbird649  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 680
Sunny Sussex, UK
Not so daft, as Stewart read it on here, dont know if he reads the BSA pages!



Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #734756
05/10/18 5:25 pm
05/10/18 5:25 pm
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,076
Scotland
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Stuart Online content
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Stuart  Online Content
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,076
Scotland
Hi Bill,

Originally Posted by Bill Weyher
The brown blue is the only hot lead I have in the headlamp housing.

It will be, but it still has to be connected correctly. And it's only "the only hot lead ... in the headlamp housing" while the engine isn't running; when the engine's running, the alternator's supplying the rectifier, the DC output of which is connected by the Brown/White to one Ammeter terminal, the Zener diode and the ignition switch.

If you look at the wiring diagram "kommando" has posted in your other thread:-

. "NU" (Brown/Blue) from battery -ve is connected to one Ammeter terminal;

. "NW" (Brown/White) is connected between the other Ammeter terminal and one side of the ignition switch;

. a "W"hite wire to, say, the ignition coil is connected to the other side of the ignition switch.

So, when you turn on the ignition switch, the supply path to the ignition coil is: battery -ve -> Brown/Blue -> Ammeter -> Brown/White -> ignition switch -> White -> ignition coil -ve.

For that supply path to remain the same without the Ammeter, you must simply join the Brown/Blue and Brown/White wires' Ammeter terminals together.

When the engine is running, the alternator supplies the consumers (ignition, lights, etc.) through the Brown/White wire between the rectifier and ignition switch. When the alternator is spinning fast enough to supply all the consumer demand, it will start to recharge the battery through the Brown/White from the rectifier to the Brown/Blue and the Brown/Blue to battery -ve. bigt

The wiring diagram shows the "Lighting Switch" (toggle switch on top of the headlamp shell) is supplied from one side or the other of the "Ignition Switch" by a "WN" (White/Brown), not by connecting the Brown/Blue wire to it. The difference between "NW" (Brown/White) and "WN" (White/Brown) is the first colour (of any combination) is the majority of the insulation, the second colour is of one or two tracer lines.

If you haven't found it already, the Ignition Switch has either three or four male spade terminals in a row; if three, they're a double surrounding the securing rivet and a separate single on a rivet; if four, they're two separate doubles surrounding their rivets. Risking stating the obvious, when you turn the switch 'on', the two physically-separate terminals pairs or pair-'n'-single are connected electrically inside the switch.

As you're in the US, I'm guessing you don't need lights to be on when the Ignition Switch is turned off? If so, connect the White wire(s) and the White/Brown ("Lighting Switch" supply) wire to a/the ignition switch 'double' terminal, and the Brown/White to either the other Ignition Switch 'double' terminal or the 'single' one.

Once you have those wires connected correctly, if you're still experiencing the short-circuit, another possible reason might be that the "Lighting Switch" on your bike is the wrong one - Lucas made several versions (BSA and Triumph used four!) with both different external and internal connections; then, because Lucas made so many, it's a magnet for the shonky pattern parts makers ...

The correct one for your bike, that matches the internal connections shown on the wiring diagram, will be numbered either 31788 or 35710; this might be stamped on the chromed part, or moulded on to the plastic casing; either way, you'll likely have to pull the switch out of the headlamp shell to check the number. If you don't find any 5-figure number stamped or moulded on the switch, it's likely pattern. frown

Hth.

Regards,

Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #734763
05/10/18 6:21 pm
05/10/18 6:21 pm
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,430
Scotland
kommando Offline
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kommando  Offline
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Posts: 9,430
Scotland
The Victor has the same ignition switch as the Shooting Star but the headlamp switch on mine was not the same, as it has the 5 3/4" headlamp space is limited so it has a rotary toggle and a simple 2 position switch instead of the 3 position headlamp switch. I suspect this is causing the confusion unless mine was a one off DPO, the best wiring diagram I could find for the 69/70 Victor when I fitted a new harness was the one in the TR25W 3rd Edition workshop manual but if you download this handbook

https://www.bsaunitsingles.com/Arch...70%20B44%20&%20B25%2000-4144%20x.pdf

you will find the Victor wiring diagram the page before the Shooting Star version, it shows a 3 position headlamp switch but mine did not have that.

Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #735043
05/12/18 8:56 pm
05/12/18 8:56 pm
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 158
County Durham
D
ducati2242 Offline
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Posts: 158
County Durham
This may help you

[Linked Image]

Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #735718
05/17/18 11:54 pm
05/17/18 11:54 pm
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Springdale, UT, USA
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Bill Weyher Offline OP
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Bill Weyher  Offline OP
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Posts: 5
Springdale, UT, USA
Thanks everyone for all the help. What a great resource.

I think I have it sorted out. I discounted everything and started over. Checked continuity on all wire colors and found everything as it should be with no shorts anywhere. Connected brown/blue to brown/white to each other and then white/ brown to headlamp switch. All seems to be working as it should. Next I need to get the bike started and check out the alternator output.

I have not had this running in over 10 years. I am running points and condenser, with the zener diode and stock rectifier. After I get it running again and sorted out I might put an electronic ignition in it. Any advice on what unit is best?

A couple of things I find no switch or provision for an oil pressure warning light even though the wiring diagram shows one. The other is where is the best place to mount the condenser. Right now I have it right below the battery because the wiring harness dictates that placement or somewhere near without adding extra wire.

Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #735728
05/18/18 5:50 am
05/18/18 5:50 am
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,430
Scotland
kommando Offline
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kommando  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,430
Scotland
It's a B44 with a roller bearing big end, it offers no resistance to the oil so there is no pressure to detect except from the friction from the walls of the oil galleries and pipes, so no need for pressure switch, just check the oil return on starting for long enough to ensure fresh oil is being used. Factory fitment for the condenser 69/70 was on the front of the battery tray, the condenser has a slotted lug and the bolt and hole are in the battery tray.

Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #735758
05/18/18 1:12 pm
05/18/18 1:12 pm
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Springdale, UT, USA
B
Bill Weyher Offline OP
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Bill Weyher  Offline OP
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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Springdale, UT, USA
Thanks Kommando. Interesting about the roller crank oil pressure. I guess I did find the right spot for the condenser. It was kind of dictated by new wiring harness.

Re: 1969 BSA B44 rewiring [Re: Bill Weyher] #735784
05/18/18 7:13 pm
05/18/18 7:13 pm
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,683
Canada
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LarryLebel Offline
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LarryLebel  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,683
Canada
I put Wassell EI in my B44R because it was cheaper than Boyer. My progression to the Wassell started with new AA springs (existing ones were somewhat petrified) to Eureka EI (from Royal Enfield Bullet), which uses the existing AA unit, based on thinking what could be better that the factory advance curve. I actually went through 2 Eureka units because the first one failed, then the Wassell. The Wassell is well made and it has transformed every aspect of running from staring to idling to power. I attribute the improvements to the Wassell although other EI would probably have the same results.


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