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69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust #731393
04/08/18 10:09 pm
04/08/18 10:09 pm
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 41
Oklahoma
T
Tracey Spear Offline OP
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Tracey Spear  Offline OP
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T
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 41
Oklahoma
How do I remove them?

All fasteners loose, neither will budge even the slightest.

Thanks for your advice.

Tracey

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Re: 69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust [Re: Tracey Spear] #731397
04/08/18 11:02 pm
04/08/18 11:02 pm
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,251
arkansas
L
leon bee Offline
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leon bee  Offline
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Posts: 3,251
arkansas
On the footpegs, after the hardware is off you take a little piece of 2x4 and your little bighammer and knock the arm downward. You got that splined washer off the left one?

Pipes out of the head? That can be tough if real tight. Usually they're wallowed out loose. I guess I'd try heating the head there with a propane torch.

I once did a ring job on my 69 Firebird removing the head with one pipe still firmly attached. Never did get it out, just put head back on that way.

Re: 69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust [Re: Tracey Spear] #731407
04/08/18 11:50 pm
04/08/18 11:50 pm
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 41
Oklahoma
T
Tracey Spear Offline OP
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Tracey Spear  Offline OP
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T
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 41
Oklahoma
Leon "You got that splined washer off the left one?"

No sir, haven't a clue, though a puller briefly crossed my mind. The parts book refers to it as a lock plate.

I'm done for this week end. Everything is well squirted with WD-40.

The Rt exhaust pipe is damaged. Replacing one would look weird so I'm planning to replace both and the crossover pipe. Though it would be nice to save if possible to use for tuning, then put on new pipes once dialed in.

Re: 69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust [Re: Tracey Spear] #731512
04/10/18 3:24 am
04/10/18 3:24 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,308
Santa Barbara, California
KC in S.B. Online content

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KC in S.B.  Online Content

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Posts: 4,308
Santa Barbara, California
Tracy, not sure if you know, but those pegs are mounted on a taper. A taper is an amazingly strong joint, like when used on drill press and lathe machinery. Anyhow, assuming you got the nuts off, and figured out the left side nut is left hand thread..... If the parts are still as BSA built it, there is a niffty heavy washer under that nut, to again stop the peg from getting loose. It has a flat on the O.D. That fits a flat on the peg, and the ID of the washer is splined to index on the end of the taper frame stud, which is also splined. So, nut off, washers of.
Then, sometimes a sharp rap down on the peg will loosen it on the taper. I have had to go beyond that. I sometimes find a heavy long Rod, and from the opposite side and under or where ever you can, heavy hammer blow on the rounded base of the peg driving it off the stud. usually that isn't necessary. Heat and a down rap should do it. Remember, this is the supposed to be the fun part........


Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
Oops,.. add 1 Sporty
Re: 69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust [Re: Tracey Spear] #731514
04/10/18 3:31 am
04/10/18 3:31 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,465
Owego, NY, USA
Mark Z Online content
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Mark Z  Online Content
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Posts: 4,465
Owego, NY, USA
Left footrest nut is left-hand thread.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: 69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust [Re: KC in S.B.] #731517
04/10/18 3:51 am
04/10/18 3:51 am
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 41
Oklahoma
T
Tracey Spear Offline OP
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Tracey Spear  Offline OP
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T
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 41
Oklahoma
KC No, I was not aware the peg is a taper. Yes, I read about the left hand thread. Yes I saw the splined lock plate with the flat locking the peg.

Am I correct then that I should be able to get behind the splined lock plate and work it off the splines? Then pop the taper joint with heat, and a hammer?

Why isn't the right side peg locked down like the left?

Re: 69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust [Re: Tracey Spear] #731518
04/10/18 4:41 am
04/10/18 4:41 am
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 447
Au
M
markoz Offline
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markoz  Offline
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M
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Posts: 447
Au
You don't want that left sided sucker slipping down on a big bump and jamming your brake on.

Re: 69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust [Re: Tracey Spear] #731578
04/10/18 11:33 pm
04/10/18 11:33 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,910
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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gavin eisler  Offline
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Posts: 3,910
argyll. scotland, uk
For the headers, all mounting bolts removed, slacken the balance pipe clips all the way off , soak the joins in penetrating fluid, use a brass drift to knock them around and side to side, get the balance pipe moving , knock it all the way over to the loosest side. Grab a chunk of 4 x2 ( 2x4?) soft lumber and knock the pipes forward ( hit near the top of the curve from behind) a bit at a time making sure to move the balance pipe off the stub at one side between rounds,, this usually does the trick.

Last edited by gavin eisler; 04/10/18 11:36 pm.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: 69-T-Bolt, Footpegs, Exhaust [Re: Tracey Spear] #731594
04/11/18 2:59 am
04/11/18 2:59 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,465
Owego, NY, USA
Mark Z Online content
BritBike Forum member
Mark Z  Online Content
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,465
Owego, NY, USA
Originally Posted by Tracey Spear
KC No, I was not aware the peg is a taper. Yes, I read about the left hand thread. Yes I saw the splined lock plate with the flat locking the peg.

Am I correct then that I should be able to get behind the splined lock plate and work it off the splines? Then pop the taper joint with heat, and a hammer?

Why isn't the right side peg locked down like the left?


Tracy, once having removed the nut, I think if you give the footrest rubber a whack UPWARD with a mallet, the whole affair will break free, and the splined washer will come off with the footrest.

Last question answered above.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.

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