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markoz Offline OP
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So I have finally found time to put the a65 engine back together and I have cleaned the cases, threads and nuts and bolts. Every time I've done this before I have set to on the three casings, polishing them to a brilliance finish that even Narcissus would be happy to gaze into. Now facing the job I'm not so sure if it is worth the effort It's a noisy and filthy job that inevitably fades and stains. The problem is I have new paint, and some new chrome and feel I will miss the pose of that first photo on finish.
Is it worth the effort?

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The trick is to wax the polished cases which will slow the inevitable road to re-oxidation down, then once a year get the polish out (Mothers or other favourite) and then rewax.

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i like Belgom Alu for a sunny day pose, the shine stays for longer than Solvol Autosol. The cases get the wet n dry treatment once every 20 years,, not due again til 2034 front of primary gets road rash cleaned off now and again. as long as I cant see cotter pin hammer scars I am happy. I do have micro finish cloths , seldom use them on the cases , I stop at worn 600 then get the potions out.


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You could have them ball burnished. It leaves the cases bright whilst leaving the cases original. Lasts longer than polishing.

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Maybe you could try one of the automotive paint sealers which are applied after waxing. The idea is that they form a long lasting protective seal and keep corrosion at bay, one example is JetSeal 109 see This Link, not cheap though. An alternative might be Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection see This Link

Last edited by gunner; 03/25/18 4:21 pm.

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i polished the cases on my T120 once, and then painted them with a clear coat.

didn't last any longer than anything else i've heard of, really. i don't polish em any more.


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Hey Mark............ to answer your original question: YES! you only get this chance now........

me3_600x450.jpg
Last edited by KC in S.B.; 03/26/18 4:17 am.

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markoz Offline OP
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Ok, I'll go with polish and a cheesy photo.
I'll try waxing after.
And KC thanks again for the gear box, I'm fitting it whole it was in far better condition than mine .

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Curious if all of us here have discovered one alloy polishing final step. Years back an old timer tipped me on removing the Black smear part at the end. Wiping with a soft cloth 1st to remove as much as possible does not seem to get it all off. Try this, it works, but is also something you will learn how to do best with good results and less mess. I saw this the 1st time used on the large polished aluminum airplane skins.
Using a soft rag, old TEE shirt etc., ball it up in a wad, like a powder puff. Dip it in some Corn Starch (or flour in a pinch) Then lightly powder/wipe the new polished area. That corn starch will suck up the remaining black, and you will see the difference in the brilliance. (If you did a good polish in the 1st place!)
Down side? Powder in places that you need to blow out, so use very little on the rag. It takes a small bit of practice but worth it.
Down side 2? Meal worms in old flour! EEeeuuwww!! And they smear all over the new surface !!!! Look for them 1st!
Of course, now we have those Micro fiber rags that do a very good job also. Even so, I use them with the corn starch.


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Never tried corn starch but sounds good, I usually use Vienna lime as supplied by polishing supply companies, apparently its made from calcined dolomite for use as a buffing and polishing material, cheap enough on eBay.


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KC - WD-40

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"I Don't Polish Anymore"... Hmm, I think that would make a good song title.

First, we're talking about cases and not covers, right?

There are two approaches: 1. Seek a method that provides the best durability, or 2. Seek a method that requires the least amount of work.

Quite some time ago, I started settling for "clean and respectable-looking". In that vein, I've found that hot soapy water and scouring pads (Brillo, SOS, etc.) do a nice job on the cases with minimal effort.





Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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markoz Offline OP
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Good point mark Z. I notice I put that I cleaned the cases but was talking about polishing casings, but I you are right I was talking about the three covers, primary, inner and outer timing ... sorry.

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Oh, ok then, I guess I'll add my 2 cents on covers, for what it's worth. Those I confess I do polish occasionally. I use a liquid soft metal polish called Noxon, mainly because it's cheap and easy to use. They used to sell it in the housewares section of department stores for polishing pots and pans, but now it's found in NAPA stores, at twice the price but still pretty cheap. I apply it and scrub with a piece of denim, and wipe/buff with a wadded cotton rag. Again, the finish is not brilliant, but respectable.

By the way, in the old days, I found that cloth diapers made the best polishing rags, for waxing the car as well polishing the bike. I don't know that anyone uses cloth diapers anymore, but there's probably something made out of the same material (thick cotton gauze?).



Mark Z

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I think if you own a British bike, polishing the covers has always been part of the journey. Sore index fingers when you were a teenager.
Then again if the bike is a hack, there's nothing wrong with a bit of decay, oil, grime and assorted road debris.
Solvol was what I always used to use and still have some but these days I take the covers off and do a proper job with various mop grades and grades of polishing soap.
If you do a good job to start off with, it doesn't take much to keep it looking good.


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Now if you want a shile that lasts for a very long time and is fairly well impervious to heat, roa abrasion & water this is the product.
Rolite aero polish
This is a commercialization of the stuff used by the USAF for a very long time ( so I have been told )


And like everything else you can go one step better by applying it over this
Ap aircraft polish


Last edited by BSA_WM20; 03/30/18 1:01 pm.

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