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Beezuki! #727799
03/06/18 10:22 pm
03/06/18 10:22 pm
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 294
Southampton UK
P
Peter Gascoigne Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Peter Gascoigne  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
P
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 294
Southampton UK
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]



I bought a 1966 Lightning a while ago, rode it around, It seemed fine, so I thought I'd strip it and had the frame checked., I don't know what had happened to to it, but NOTHING was straight.

It was then that I decided to build a Beezuki, using a suitably modified frame and a Suzuki GT550 3 cylinder 2-stroke engine. Why? Well because you can, and I had a goosed A65 frame and a good GT550 engine. I'm not into frame fixing, never mind modifying, I bought a bare crankcase, and gave it all to a local bloke put in some new down tubes and make everything fit and line up.

I'm now having a dry run build up, seeing what I can use and what I can't, what I can cut off and what I going to need to add. I can use the oil tank with a couple of modifications for the 2-stroke oil. I'll use the Suzuki wiring loom, electrics and hand controls, and possibly the Suzuki GT550 instruments and switches. (you may have guessed by now that I have a GT550 donor bike!). I'm going to use some Suzuki GS 750 front suspension with brakes, and a Suzuki wheel hub.

Having looked at both the A65 and the GT550 yokes/triple trees, I think I'm going to use the A65 ones, as I think the only machining, will be to the top yoke, to make the 35mm Suzuki fork tubes fit, and maybe some spacing on the axle.

Questions. Which yokes/trees do I use? Do I machine out the top BSA yoke/tree to accept the parallel Suzuki fork legs, and if I do, how do I stop them moving up and down as there is only one fork leg clamp per side? Do I machine a taper on the Suzuki fork legs? There are some very ingenious people on this forum, have any of you got any ideas please?


1971 BSA A65 Lightning "Bitsa"
1966 BSA A65 "Beezuki" with GT550 two-stroke engine
1974 Triumph T150 830cc
1975 Suzuki GT550
1975 Laverda 1000 3C
1986 Yamaha SRX 600
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Re: Beezuki! [Re: Peter Gascoigne] #727800
03/06/18 10:33 pm
03/06/18 10:33 pm
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 12,777
Central Virginia
Lannis Offline

Life member
Lannis  Offline

Life member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 12,777
Central Virginia
Originally Posted by Peter Gascoigne

I'm now having a dry run build up, seeing what I can use and what I can't, what I can cut off and what I going to need to add. I can use the oil tank with a couple of modifications for the 2-stroke oil. I'll use the Suzuki wiring loom, electrics and hand controls, and possibly the Suzuki GT550 instruments and switches. (you may have guessed by now that I have a GT550 donor bike!). I'm going to use some Suzuki GS 750 front suspension with brakes, and a Suzuki wheel hub.

Having looked at both the A65 and the GT550 yokes/triple trees, I think I'm going to use the A65 ones, as I think the only machining, will be to the top yoke, to make the 35mm Suzuki fork tubes fit, and maybe some spacing on the axle.

Questions. Which yokes/trees do I use? Do I machine out the top BSA yoke/tree to accept the parallel Suzuki fork legs, and if I do, how do I stop them moving up and down as there is only one fork leg clamp per side? Do I machine a taper on the Suzuki fork legs? There are some very ingenious people on this forum, have any of you got any ideas please?


I don't think it's a whole lot of use asking opinions, since YOU are now the one and only expert on "How to Make a Hybrid Out Of An A65 and a GT-550" ......

Although I do have an opinion on the yokes. I think you should use the BSA yoke, and modify the top to clamp the Suzuki fork legs (machine out the bore and weld on clamp lugs). You'll probably want the adjustability while you sort out the handling ....

Lannis


I stopped believing for a little while this morning. Journey is really going to be upset.
Re: Beezuki! [Re: Lannis] #727862
03/07/18 8:48 am
03/07/18 8:48 am
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 294
Southampton UK
P
Peter Gascoigne Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Peter Gascoigne  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
P
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 294
Southampton UK
Lannis,

I guess your right about my expertise! A very good suggestion for the yoke, thank you very much, I think that's the way to go.


1971 BSA A65 Lightning "Bitsa"
1966 BSA A65 "Beezuki" with GT550 two-stroke engine
1974 Triumph T150 830cc
1975 Suzuki GT550
1975 Laverda 1000 3C
1986 Yamaha SRX 600
Re: Beezuki! [Re: Peter Gascoigne] #727877
03/07/18 3:35 pm
03/07/18 3:35 pm
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 190
Vancouver Island Canada
Salty Dog Offline
BritBike Forum member
Salty Dog  Offline
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 190
Vancouver Island Canada
Peter

I like the cut of yer jib

It will be interesting to see how it evolves and performs

Fantastic project

Good luck with it

S


Keep It Greasy
Re: Beezuki! [Re: Peter Gascoigne] #727886
03/07/18 5:39 pm
03/07/18 5:39 pm
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,930
Ohio
R
Rickman Offline
BritBike Forum member
Rickman  Offline
BritBike Forum member
R
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,930
Ohio
Hello Peter,
I am using Kaw H-2 front ends on three of my project A-10's.

35mm tubes, hydraulic disc brakes, 19" WM2 rims with having similar to BSA 40 spoke pattern, top and bottom clamps pinch-bolted tight.

The Kaw tree stem is 30mm, the BSA frame bearing cup is 2.125", which happens to be very close to 54mm.

..... I believe honda has a bearing that has an outer race that is 54mm, but I don't wish to use up so much time trying to find that bearing....

I did find a tapered roller bearing that had 30mm I.D. x 55mm O.D., so I had a shop with a centerless grinder take the outer race down to 54mm, or you might just find one to take it down to 2.125". I left it at 54mm, so as to take up slop in the 2.125" frame cup... They are nicely tight.

This, for me, made it a completely bolt in operation. Except for a few adjustments;

1) the stems between the BSA and Kaw are slightly different lengths, the Kaw being a small bit longer.

2) you will HAVE TO, make up a plate(?) to be the steering stop, or some other method to stop the bars and tubes from crashing into your gas tank. AND find a
way to mount the forward end into the stem, with a pivoting fastener...

3) And make a mount to hold the hydraulic dampener that functions on an H-2, or, H-1.
Unless you wish to use the earlier Kaw steering stem screw-down dampener..... But that may require some other adjustment I haven't had to go through ....
yet...

Some of the stem length issues are taken up by the additional..... depth? Height? that the roller bearing stack take up over the stock balls and races, but further shimming is required to your tastes, as the top stem nut will run out of threads to tighten down the assembly...
Brett

Re: Beezuki! [Re: Peter Gascoigne] #727940
03/08/18 1:50 am
03/08/18 1:50 am
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 76
Michigan
dodgeboy57 Offline
BritBike Forum member
dodgeboy57  Offline
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 76
Michigan
Let's see, you have a complete Suzuki front end that would require a new stem to fit upgraded tapered bearing in the BSA frame (Bearing can be had @ SRM)

OR,

you can machine the original BSA upper tree to fit the Suzuki tubes and then have to fret the width of the forks, wheel, brakes, etc while risking breaking the upper cast iron tree. (oh, by the way, the upper tree had a 'lip' to stop the fork tube from coming out the top. The tube is locked with the Fork cap. Early Cerani forks are also like this.

I know what I'd do (and have done) - machine an upper and lower piece that fits the ID of the Suzuki trees, then neck it down (or up) to fit the tapered BSA bearings. Drill and tap the lower 'adapter' for as fine a thread as you can find a long Grade 8 bolt (expensive), or (as I've done) Drill, tap and counter sink the upper adapter for fine threads, Install a short cap screw at the top (red lock-tite), then machine a 'stud' (stem) to fill the gap between the lower and upper adapters.

I'd post pics but I'd have to take a bike apart.

This method of fitting forks was commonly used on Greeves from the 50's to the late 60's and is also similar to that found on a BSA B50 fork/stem. The B50 stem has course threads on the bottom (fixed with a nut) and fine threads on the top for precise bearing pre-load adjustment, and then fixed with a pinch bolt.


Last edited by dodgeboy57; 03/08/18 1:53 am.

45 M20
56 Ariel HS
56 Ariel HT5
(3x)57 B34 "Alloy Clipper" (Tri-Scr-ISDT)
58 A7 Bitza
61 Greeves Hawkstone
63 A10 GSS
63 Greeves MDS
65 Otter B40WD Trls
65 M&M B44(Miller frame/Dick Mann eng)
67 Greeves MX5 ChallengerTT
71 B50/570cc MX
Re: Beezuki! [Re: Peter Gascoigne] #727947
03/08/18 2:47 am
03/08/18 2:47 am
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 76
Michigan
dodgeboy57 Offline
BritBike Forum member
dodgeboy57  Offline
BritBike Forum member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 76
Michigan
Not the best 'drafting' I've ever done, but it does show the idea.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by dodgeboy57; 03/08/18 3:51 pm.

45 M20
56 Ariel HS
56 Ariel HT5
(3x)57 B34 "Alloy Clipper" (Tri-Scr-ISDT)
58 A7 Bitza
61 Greeves Hawkstone
63 A10 GSS
63 Greeves MDS
65 Otter B40WD Trls
65 M&M B44(Miller frame/Dick Mann eng)
67 Greeves MX5 ChallengerTT
71 B50/570cc MX

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