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68 bsa #727334 03/03/18 1:01 am
Joined: Mar 2018
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Dmdrone Offline OP
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I just got a 68 model and the motor needs a rebuild my question is it worth rebuilding the complete bike ( recroming and painting and everything else to make it a show bike ) or just the motor and nessasary rubber and brakes to make it a daily rider thanks Dan

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Re: 68 bsa [Re: Dmdrone] #727338 03/03/18 1:42 am
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Richard Phillips Offline
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Restore it to the highest level you are capable of. Ride with pride and never make excuses. . If its value consider this 1970 Lightning brought $17,000 at Los Vegas in Jan this year

Re: 68 bsa [Re: Dmdrone] #727340 03/03/18 2:12 am
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Dmdrone Offline OP
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I haven't taken any pictures yet I have to clean out a area so I have room to work on it

Re: 68 bsa [Re: Dmdrone] #727343 03/03/18 2:51 am
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Mark Z Offline
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Regardless of show vs. rider, I would be inclined to paint or powdercoat the frame while the engine is out, if it needs it. All other cosmetic issues can be addressed later.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: 68 bsa [Re: Dmdrone] #727346 03/03/18 3:37 am
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leon bee Online Content
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What Mark said. Do all the black stuff; frame, oil tank, swing arm, motor mount plates, etc. while engine is out. I use paint, myself. Remove the forks and grease those 40 bouncing balls cause nobody else has ever done it.

Re: 68 bsa [Re: Dmdrone] #727351 03/03/18 5:03 am
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BSA_WM20 Offline
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I always recommend the other way.
Get the mechanicals sorted out while you are riding the bike.
That way is becomes a fun pastime and not an endless money pit with no end in site.
Once the engine & driveline have been sorted and are reliable, then pull the bike down & do the cosmetics.
Getting these lumps in & out of the frames is not an easy job so scratch & chip the old paint 5 to 10 times while you work out a method to do it without damage.
In the few years you are riding the bike you can decide exactly what you want to do with it.
AMCA 100 point concorse bike
Custom bike to your personal taste
Leave the original finish for all to admire the work of the factory from 50 years ago.

I could not count the number of people over the years who spent a fortune on paint finishes only to have them ruined cause the "tank fell of the shelf" or the" lever slipped & took a chunk out of the frame paint" or what I am regularly guilty of " Where the *#!* did I put those parts" which you took off 3 years ago when you started and never got around to fitting because of all of the "little set backs" along the way.

Apart from that you can almost put money on the fact there will be lots of "wrong" parts on there, particularly tin wear.
So thus you do not end up with unmatched parts ( which is the actual original factory finish ) or paying a second time to get the right side cover / tank etc painted to match the bike.
Also like any new vehicle, the greatest chance you have of dropping it is in the first year till you get used to it and the peculuarities of riding a 50 year old British bike in 2018 traffic.
An original finish bike draws people out and you will be surprised just how many will pipe up with a " that's the wrong tank you have there , would you like the correct one ?"
Rarely ever happens with a fully remanufactured bike, but I get it all the time as none of my BSA's rarely get more than the chips touched up.

The other thing I noticed when doing a static alongside some really gorgeous Beesa's was a lot more people would approach me and have a chat than the owners of the showroom floor models along side it.
I have nothing agains bikes like Richards, they are credit to him and do look truely stunning but you need to be totally sure what you want to end up with before you start because changing boats midstream becomes very expensive.


Bike Beesa
Trevor
Re: 68 bsa [Re: BSA_WM20] #727407 03/03/18 6:35 pm
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kevin roberts Online Content
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Originally Posted by BSA_WM20

. . . or what I am regularly guilty of " Where the *#!* did I put those parts" which you took off 3 years ago when you started and never got around to fitting because of all of the "little set backs" along the way.



lol

my Tbolt is sidelined until i remember where i put the Boyer box. i know i won't lose it because i always purposely put things in a place where i will stumble across it sooner or later.

but i'm not stumbling enough, it seems.


every day you do not take a chance is a day of your life that you will never get back.
Re: 68 bsa [Re: BSA_WM20] #727461 03/04/18 3:12 am
Joined: Aug 2001
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Mark Z Offline
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Originally Posted by BSA_WM20
Getting these lumps in & out of the frames is not an easy job...


Precisely why I like to do that only once if possible. There are some simple ways to protect the frame when installing the engine, which topic has been discussed herein now and then, and which can be revisited on request. My personal choice is this split plastic tubing you put on shower curtain rods. Comes in 5-ft. lengths, cheap. Cut to length, snap it onto the frame, pull it off when done. I also strip the engine down to the crankcase before removal, and install it the same way (i.e., just the crankcase). Having entered the echelon of senior citizens, I also employ a makeshift block and tackle (clothesline and a couple of pulleys).



Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.

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