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Robs engine rebuild help thread #727156
03/01/18 7:15 am
03/01/18 7:15 am
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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Norway
Hi Fellas,

I had a lot of problems with my Rickman Metisse last year so in November I sent the bottom end to SRM in wales and this turned up this week.

I got new oversized pistons and have now delivered the devimead barrel to my local engineer shop for a bore and hone.

I have built many 2 stroke engines before, but never a 4 stroke, so I have lots of questions comming and thought I would keep it all tidy in this thread.

I bought a Thunderbolt head from eBay and it was a real mess. I decided to swap out the Lightning head to thunderbolt because I belive that Rickman scramblers came with a T-bolt head from Rickman as standard and It should give me a little more torque.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

The head has been welded, faced, fins and threads all repared. Ohh... Big valves and ported to lower the comp a little for modern (crap) fuel. All to help this baby start a little easier.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

New spitfire cam, SRM Rods, sludge trap cleaned and dynamic balancing. Engine case repairs include gasket and bearing faces and of corse the singing and dancing end feed and needle bearing conversion. The side cases were blasted, dechromed and then polished. This motor was crinkel painted black when I sent it to SRM.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

The cylinder should be back with me in about 10 days.

I will need some assistance on some proberbly pretty basic info, like push rod order, clutch rebuild and the odd niggle that might crop up.

I am hoping to take the bike to a local bike show in April.

At the moment we have 1.5 meters of snow and today it was -12c in my garage (-32 effective outside! ) so hope it warms up a little when I get the barrel back.

First job is fitting the gearbox and new bearings and seals which I wont recieve until next week anyway.



1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
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Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727161
03/01/18 9:53 am
03/01/18 9:53 am
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 454
Au
M
markoz Offline
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Au
Nice to see.......even better to open.
What size final drive, my big bore runs a 21 tooth without any issues at all.
I was just about to advertise a set of those pistons as I had to go larger again.

Last edited by markoz; 03/01/18 10:07 am.
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727164
03/01/18 10:41 am
03/01/18 10:41 am
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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Norway
Yeah, I`m running 21-47

Pistons are 79.5.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727166
03/01/18 10:44 am
03/01/18 10:44 am
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 454
Au
M
markoz Offline
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Au
That's the size.
I had to go to 80, but I already had the 79.5 purchased, my mistake. I have two sets of jugs might see if I can sleeve one but I don't think there's enough meat to be able

Last edited by markoz; 03/01/18 10:48 am.
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727168
03/01/18 11:41 am
03/01/18 11:41 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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argyll. scotland, uk
A tasty package.
First off , cover the quill oil feed with the timing chest, its delicate and get knocked eccentric easily.
There is a critical dimension to check for the head with the new inlet valve, its valve spring end tip to alloy at spring seat, the big inlet valve can sit to proud if the seats are not cut deep enough , causing piston clash. Will dig through my notes for this.

push rods are easy, short ones ( inlets) go to outer cam lobes,

Clutch , strip the centre hub right down, drill out the pop marks on the screws first, look for wear at spider and endplate. replace cush rubbers if wear is light, otherwise a whole new centre is the easiest fix.

gearbox, shim to layshaft DS end, look for 0.003" end float. test assemble cluster in cases, pull /push llayshaft end, 3 thou is just perceptible, any more , clunk or click needs a thicker shim.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: gavin eisler] #727180
03/01/18 1:01 pm
03/01/18 1:01 pm
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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Norway
Cool.

I have new cush drive rubbers lying around somewhere but didn`t get round to trying to swap them out after seeing what a ballsache it can be and sort of forgot about that......

I wasn`t aware that I could buy a complete cush drive assy, so thanks for the tip on that. I have a couple of mates that have complete SRM clutch but what is the advantage over a well maintained standard clutch?

I have an alli pressure plate that came with the bike.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727181
03/01/18 1:12 pm
03/01/18 1:12 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,146
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Allan Gill  Offline

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The srm clutch will be the 7 plate conversion and the lifting plate, good mods but if you really want to improve it, around 500GBP will get you a Bob Newby belt drive, the plus side apart from running without oil is that you will never need to look at it again.

Gavin, they look like later 40mm valves to me (not the 43.5mm), If you use the bike in the intentions a metise was made for then I'd have suggested lower gearing and advancing the camshaft position by 1 tooth. It would give a lot of bottom end and still pull the ton... I am guessing though that your using it on the road?


beerchug
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727188
03/01/18 2:26 pm
03/01/18 2:26 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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argyll. scotland, uk
if the stock 3 spring clutch has decent flat plates and a fresh centre it just about copes without cranking the springs in too tight.
New clutch centres are ~£100, just get one , odds are the old one is well worn. Un notched fresh splines and no wear on the end plate helps a whole lot.

Seven plate kits are available again another £ton, havnt heard a bad thing about them, one just came in the post for my bike today, the friction plates are thinner by about 40 thou each ( .110" versus .154" for the 6 plate) so the stack height ends up the same, these work with 650 springs , folk that fit them get a good light non slippy clutch. 6 plate stack (6 x150) + (6 x 80) =900 + 480 = 1.380 " , 7 plate stack ( 7 x110) + (6x80) +75 ( new plain) = 770+555 = 1.325, thinner!, good , because its tight in there. the only down side I see is the low fat friction material, theres not much to wear away to FA.
Most important to check your flat steel plates, any warp is a fail, test by putting on a dead flat surface then go round with a 2 thou feeler.

Inlet valve crit dimension, from spring seat base bare alloy to valve tip, should be 1.730" - 1.750", more is OK, shorter means it might say hello to the piston and be coil bound, my head had to go back to SRM to be corrected, hopefully they got it right for you , I found out when it was being checked for valve timing so no harm done.
if you got new springs to match your valves from SRM you will find they dont match the book dimensions, make a note in case you check them later and think they have grown/ shrunk if compared to book values. they work fine, nothing to worry about, I called Geoff when I measured them and the dims were different , he explained that the new spec springs are not the same but work fine.

Last edited by gavin eisler; 03/01/18 2:31 pm.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727200
03/01/18 4:31 pm
03/01/18 4:31 pm
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,721
Mississauga, Ontario.
A
Adam M. Offline
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Mississauga, Ontario.
You pretty much went all out with this engine, looks nice.

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727213
03/01/18 6:50 pm
03/01/18 6:50 pm
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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Norway
Thanks so far fella's....

Apart from SRM, who makes complete clutches (good)?
I'm not really sold on belt drive and I prefer to buy from Europe from a real dealer who deduct vat before sending to Norway.



1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727226
03/01/18 9:11 pm
03/01/18 9:11 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,146
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Allan Gill  Offline

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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,146
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
The Bob Newby whilst being a belt (I think he does a chain version too) is a different belt To that used by the Tony Hayward clutches etc. I did a lot of searching when I went for mine, in the end I found guys like Push Rod Tom uses them on his bikes and decided to go the same route, the bike sees some
Hammer and hasn’t let me down yet, and whilst being a 6 spring clutch is still quite light. 2 friends have since fitted them and more than happy with them. I’m not on some kind of kick back for these by the way, but put a lot of mileage on my bikes and prefer to have something reliable that I can fit and forget. I also change gearbox sprocket sizes quickly also.


beerchug
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727243
03/02/18 12:49 am
03/02/18 12:49 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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gavin eisler  Offline
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Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
Norman Hyde for 7 plate clutch kit, the one I just got from grins triumphs is branded " Aerco". Plenty folk selling these kits in the UK, probably in Europe too.
Burtons ( BBB) sell complete clutches,regular or with an alloy plate option , not heard anything good about the alloy basket.
possibly a few others , its the same clutch parts as a triumph 650/750 twin apart from the triplex basket so a few options exist, but if you are changing the whole thing, new basket means new chain and front sprocket , fitting old to new is not a good idea.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727261
03/02/18 5:43 am
03/02/18 5:43 am
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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I have bought a new primary and drive chain and full set of sprockets so that's why I'm thinking that now is actually the cheapest time for me just to plump for a complete new clutch

I am warming up to a newby but I'm a little concerned that my rotor won't work on it though. I'm running an electrex word 12v kit and having to fit another ignition would seriously bump up the price, especially now that it would make my triplex chain and front sprocket redundant.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727267
03/02/18 7:57 am
03/02/18 7:57 am
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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Norway
Back and forth, back and forth.....

So, Realy my best/cheepest option is a new cush drive, springs and a 7 plate conversion?


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727272
03/02/18 9:45 am
03/02/18 9:45 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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argyll. scotland, uk
You have new chain and sprocket , then it makes sound economic sense to fit a new clutch basket, you may be able to get an option for a whole clutch without plates , if you want to fit the seven plate upgrade, Whatever way you cut it a whole new clutch will be approx £300, new plain steels are usually a good idea, once the cush centre wears and slip is induced the plain steels warp with heat.
. if you already have the alloy pressure plate then buying separate centre and basket may make sense, tough call. I am envious of the Bob Newby set up, however it comes with its own issues, the primary case needs moved out, and ventilation is a good idea, dry belts need cold air, , on an off road bike which might end up lying in a watery puddle , maybe not such a good thing.

Last edited by gavin eisler; 03/02/18 10:06 am.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727275
03/02/18 10:18 am
03/02/18 10:18 am
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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Sorted.

I found a basket from a nos parts dealer, here in Norway.

Ended up with the 7 plate conversion kit from BBB, new rollers , center and SRM pressure plate kit.

But like you pointed out Gavin, I should have just gone for the whole clutch with 7 plate conv. for what turned out to be the same price.

haha.

I have also belt envy but it does seem its not without some niggles. Even more so If I had to shell out for a new 12v system

Last edited by Manx; 03/02/18 10:21 am.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727286
03/02/18 1:35 pm
03/02/18 1:35 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,146
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Allan Gill  Offline

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Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Manx, can you post a photo of how your ignition should look when fitted?

for the standard alternator the Newby comes with the correct spacing to move everything outboard slightly. Can't see why it wouldn't work here also.

RE the alloy basket, I found the one I had to be very good and strong, My problems stemmed from the clutch centre and primary chain but the basket showed very little wear on the teeth or the tacks the plates run in.


beerchug
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Allan Gill] #727289
03/02/18 2:07 pm
03/02/18 2:07 pm
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Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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The rotor sits on a washer and cone, up against the sprocket.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

It might have been doable by just using a fatter washer?


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727598
03/05/18 7:56 am
03/05/18 7:56 am
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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Norway
I decided to upgrade the clutch a little and I am waiting for new gearbox bearings.

Motor is in the frame now at least.

[Linked Image]

I bought a new clutch basket and cushdrive, new springs, SRM pressure plate and a 7 plate conversion kit.

While I am waiting for parts I think I will start on the top end.

I know this has been done to death and Iv`e read quite a few threads on the subject but I am still non the wiser.

I have first oversize 79.5 pistons, what should my piston to bore clearence be? I have read that clearence should be bigger on lager bore but a concrete number would help more.

Also what should the ring gap be?

Cheers,
Rob


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727668
03/05/18 9:46 pm
03/05/18 9:46 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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argyll. scotland, uk
If you bought the pistons from SRM , better ask them,this clearance depends on the alloy mix used in the pistons ( Low ex silicon alloy can be a little tighter) my old iron barrels were 0.0045" clearance when rebored.
Ring gap, book says 0.008" - 0.013", I use 9 top, 12 middle , 9 oil ring, a wider gapped 2nd ring is meant to help seal better, better loose than tight here.
Important to get bores finish honed with a 150 -180 grit hone, this is a lot ruffer than most modern stuff, make sure the reborer uses this or suffer poorly seated rings.
This comes up a lot , google "britbike forum bore honing" or such like and read what John Healy says about it.,

Last edited by gavin eisler; 03/05/18 9:48 pm.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727675
03/05/18 11:20 pm
03/05/18 11:20 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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My head was the same, I spent ages de masking, removing the step around the inlet faces, nerve wrackingly close to the valve seat , dremel and small burr.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: gavin eisler] #727713
03/06/18 7:57 am
03/06/18 7:57 am
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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What is the advantage of removing the step?

I`m clueless but pretty handy with a dremmel on 2 stroke ports.

Last edited by Manx; 03/06/18 7:57 am.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727715
03/06/18 8:16 am
03/06/18 8:16 am
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Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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ok, will do!


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727723
03/06/18 12:36 pm
03/06/18 12:36 pm
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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Norway
Clearence recomended by SRM is 0.0045, like you said Gavin.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727763
03/06/18 6:28 pm
03/06/18 6:28 pm
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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I came home ready to fire up my dremmel but the dark bits on the head are just dark bits, there is no recess or edge around the valves.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #727970
03/08/18 8:21 am
03/08/18 8:21 am
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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My daughter finaly got her act together and machined me a rear axle, so now its standing on its own two wheels again.

[Linked Image]


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728139
03/09/18 8:40 pm
03/09/18 8:40 pm
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 217
Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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I'm not sure this is the norm on brit bikes but I have done this on my scooter engines for 20 years with great results.
I always buy 2RS (2 rubber seals) bearings if they sit on a seal side of the engine case.
I've never been keen on running sealed bearings in places that get good lubrication so I take out the seal on the lubrication side but keep one in on the seal side and pack the area in between with high temp grease to lube the outer seal.

I have a bit of a fobia against leaks because when you get a top end leak on a 2 stroke, it goes bang very quickly.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


One thing I have come to think about is the breather from the primary case.

There is a little hose that sprays oil on the chain and from the chain all over the bike. When I green lane the oil also attracts loads of other crap that also sprays all over the bike.

Is there an simple alternative method for the breather ? I imagine simply blocking it off is a no-no?

Last edited by Manx; 03/09/18 9:27 pm.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728147
03/09/18 9:42 pm
03/09/18 9:42 pm
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Err.. I did a search and it looks like I can just block the chain oiler.

Is that correct?


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: NickL] #728389
03/12/18 12:46 pm
03/12/18 12:46 pm
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Posts: 217
Norway
M
Manx Offline OP
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sorted. thanx


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728504
03/13/18 7:16 pm
03/13/18 7:16 pm
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Arrgghhh!

A little hiccup. I got a phone call from the engineering shop today and the bore is seriously worn .

I bought oversize 79.5 pistons and they say that if they bore it to the new pistons the barrel will still be too big at the base and can cause piston slap.

I'm pretty sure I can take the devimead to 80mm but would like this confirmed by someone in the know please.

Can one of you nice chaps point me in the right direction to someone who can sort me out with some quality pistons... preferably in Europe that can deliver fast?

The snow is melting!


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728542
03/14/18 6:05 am
03/14/18 6:05 am
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Great news. Thanks Nick.

Is there any particular brand og piston that I should be looking for?


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728548
03/14/18 7:12 am
03/14/18 7:12 am
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Forfar, Scotland
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JER.Hill Offline
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Forfar, Scotland
Hi

You can get the B44 GPM slipper pistons from Mark Cook at mark@ccm-britain.co.uk, Not sure about 80.5mm but certainly 80mm.

regards

John

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: JER.Hill] #728551
03/14/18 9:44 am
03/14/18 9:44 am
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Posts: 5,146
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

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Originally Posted by JER.Hill
Hi

You can get the B44 GPM slipper pistons from Mark Cook at mark@ccm-britain.co.uk, Not sure about 80.5mm but certainly 80mm.

regards

John


+1 Although I was certain he was using the JE Pistons... Maybe he has both confused


beerchug
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728553
03/14/18 10:33 am
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I have 80 mm in mine.
Tried the slipper pistons without much success they got pinched up then became noisy.
Maybe not the piston fault

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728568
03/14/18 2:08 pm
03/14/18 2:08 pm
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Bega NSW Australia
Mark Parker Offline
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EdV's JE forged pistons are great, plus they come with a modern ring pack and run tight bore clearance. I've seen cheap cast B44 pistons at a higher price. I don't see Ed's pistons as expensive, but they are top shelf. Ed is also great to deal with.


mark
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728569
03/14/18 2:15 pm
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Bega NSW Australia
Mark Parker Offline
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Another thing about Ed's B44pistons is the short skirt, as it keeps the piston completely in the bore at BDC. Or depending on cyl and stroke they stay further up the bore at BDC.


mark
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728579
03/14/18 4:24 pm
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derby england
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Too big at the base ???? was it running its rings at the bottom of the piston ?


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Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: wak] #728600
03/14/18 7:16 pm
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Wak!

That is a very good question, one I can not answer.

I would have thought that if the jugs were worn, that the area that the rings run in would be widest, just like you.

My cylinder shop are also confused but they think its basicly a botch job, maybe a home garage bore?

To sort out the barrel the shop wants £300, and pistons will come to £400 with tax and shipping..... almost enough for me to justify a brand new alluminium barrel..... almost


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728627
03/14/18 10:06 pm
03/14/18 10:06 pm
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Bega NSW Australia
Mark Parker Offline
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Two of these would workout much less than 400pound; $380us plus shipping.

https://www.shopevengineering.com/E...182&shopBy=-8415&catalogId=-2087


mark
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728641
03/14/18 11:50 pm
03/14/18 11:50 pm
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argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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Wont be a lot less, if I buy stuff from the states to the UK , it almost always comes to the same numbers in pounds as dollars by the time shipping and customs have had their share.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: gavin eisler] #728660
03/15/18 7:44 am
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Postage from the states is normaly quite expensive to norway (NON EU).

Norwegian VAT is 25% plus 5% handeling fee and toll.

The kroner is very low at the moment against all currancies but esspecialy the dollar.

Postage from UK normaly quite cheep and the best european dealers deduct VAT so I just have a 6% markup on UK prices after ive payed norwegian VAT.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728666
03/15/18 11:20 am
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Manx Offline OP
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Ok.

Talked to SRM and they can exchage my oversize pistons for standard (79`s ) and take the price off thier 750 kit, so I will be going down that route.

My wife has thrown all her toys out of the pram, so hope nothing else crops up, or it will be me she is throwing out the house..


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #728815
03/16/18 9:41 pm
03/16/18 9:41 pm
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Mississauga, Ontario.
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Adam M. Offline
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I feel you man smile.

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #730290
03/29/18 4:07 pm
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Manx Offline OP
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Ok, a couple of days off work and I had to see if my cunning plan would work.

The cunning plan was to hide a panckake filter just in front of air filter box and with a bit of fettleing I got it to sit pretty good.

A problem I can see is that if/when I need to take the the carb off, i`ll be pretty fecked because I don`t have enough wiggle room to take the filter off to be able to move the carb off the studs.

The only (proberbly terrible) solution I can come up with is to fit the 2 to 1 manifold with bolts, rather than studs.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Bolts won`t work on the carb itself because the carb body is in the way.

what do you fellas think? I can cut a hole in the filter box and fit the original type Metisse filter but then I have to find somewhere else for the 12v system and will need to make a new wireing loom.

Last edited by Manx; 03/29/18 4:11 pm.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #730291
03/29/18 4:13 pm
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Edgewater, Md
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A Socket head or "allen" bolt will work in lieu of the studs.


1955 BSA Bantam D1 Plunger
1956 BSA A10RR Street and LSR Bike
1961 BSA C15S
1966 BSA spitfire
1969 Triumph T100C
1970 Triumph TR6R
1970 Triumph TR6C
1972 BSA Lightning LSR Bike
1974 Triumph T150V
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Blown Income] #730293
03/29/18 4:36 pm
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Manx Offline OP
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Yep.

And the million dollar question is what thread should they be?

Are you thinking carb or manifold?


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #730305
03/29/18 7:27 pm
03/29/18 7:27 pm
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argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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Is there nor the rudiments of an airbox already , that pancake looks like too hard a puzzle, maybe use the battery box to house a car filter cut to size with a bit of hose from carb to box.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #730312
03/29/18 8:55 pm
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The air filter box is full of electrickery and the battery and I can't really hide it anywhere else.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #730313
03/29/18 9:24 pm
03/29/18 9:24 pm
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Posts: 902
Farnham, Surrey, UK
gunner Online content
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Difficult to see from the photos how much room there is behind the carb for an air filter, perhaps one solution would be too use a threaded cone filter available from AMAL seeThis Link. This filter is apparently extends beyond the rear edge of the carb by 65mm, you may need to cut away some material from the battery box but as its cone shaped it should be minimal.

Regarding the manifold studs as already mentioned I believe the thread is 1/4 unf, so it should be possible to use socket caps in place of the studs.


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: gunner] #730325
03/29/18 10:27 pm
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Hmm.. good thinking batman.

Did a bit of measuring and looks like that could work. If I cut a hole just big enough to enable me to take the filter off then I have ample room to take the carb off.

I'll have another look tomorrow.



1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731027
04/05/18 8:47 pm
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Right. Clutch time.

I fit my clutch this evening but it looks like my rod has worn short so I had to order a new one.

I also think that my clutch inner cable is too short .

Should the clutch mechanism (later type) be completely relaxed with the cable attached?

I think the cable length has been made shorter to compensate for the worn rod.

And how tight should the springs be? I think I read somewhere that one coil should be visible.
Does that sound right? It's lifting crooked on one spring should that one be backed off a little, or the others tightened?

Proberbly basic stuff for you guys.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731064
04/06/18 12:47 am
04/06/18 12:47 am
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argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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The three ball ramp should be fully relaxed with the cable slack ( the 3 mounting screw heads should be visible through the three holes in the moving part), it will "click " loudly if it isnt. Screw the cable adjusters in at each end of the cable,theres about an inch on each one. Use the clutch pressure plate centre adjuster to set the push rod clearance about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn from touching. this beds in fast and closes as the plates settle in , recheck after a few hundred miles. or sooner.

Try setting the clutch springs with the centre stud just flush with the screw slot bottom, fix a pointer up using whatever comes to hand use the casing flange tapped holes to mount a screw with a bit of stiff wire. Spin the clutch withdrawn and tune out wobble by tightening the high spring, or slackening the low side.

A couple of finer points on tweaking the springs, the adjuster screws have a dimple /pip which engages with the end of the spring, when fine tuning bear this in mind, you can feel the pip ride over the spring end as you tighten, 1/2 turn adjustments that dont meet pip to spring end will change in use as it settles in, its better to err on the light side, your left hand and the clutch cable will last longer, you can always tighten up later if you get slip, this will show up in 3rd when tackling hills.
Aim for somewhere like 6 - 10 lbs pull at the hand lever with a spring balance to check .



This works for me with 750 springs. I dont know about the 7 plate set up , but it would be a good starting point, if it slips in use you can tighten them up later.

Shortening the cable to suit a worn rod is a bad idea,

have you got the ball bearing that goes between the end of the pushrod and the 3 ball ramp cup, if it was missing it might account for the pushrod discrepancy?

While you are in there slather the three ball mech with bearing grease , the black stuff with moly in it, then you will know where the black drool is coming from later, wink, it helps keep the clutch light.



Last edited by gavin eisler; 04/06/18 1:08 am.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731075
04/06/18 4:44 am
04/06/18 4:44 am
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Manx Offline OP
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Thanks Gavin.

The little ball is there and so is the clicking noise, even with the adjusters fully backed off.

My manual only shows the early type clutch but that has a springy thing between mechanism and cable. Should the late type also have that?

My rod is about half a cm too short and looks cut. Almost looks like some numpty has cut it to compensate for too short inner .


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731076
04/06/18 5:19 am
04/06/18 5:19 am
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Au
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markoz Offline
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With some of the clutch conversion kits like the SRM pressure plate you had to shorten the rod about that much

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: markoz] #731085
04/06/18 7:16 am
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Manx Offline OP
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I have the SRM pressure plate kit and its still too short.

My cylinder kit is sorted now and will be sent today along with a new clutch rod. smile


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731093
04/06/18 9:06 am
04/06/18 9:06 am
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argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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The early type clutch has the springy thing, not yours the cable inner goes straight to the op arm., you need a new cable from the sound of it, either for a 70 or 71, or make your own. its not unusual to cut the push rod in half and add an extra ball bearing, you may get away with that. When cutting push rods, clean up cut on grinder , then heat to cherry red and quench in oil to harden the end.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731096
04/06/18 10:10 am
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I make my own cables. I`m trying to find somewhere local that has cable elbows, so I can add one for better pipe clearence at the same time.

Yup, cherry red and quench in oil. will do, cheers.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731105
04/06/18 12:32 pm
04/06/18 12:32 pm
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argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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something to think about , to get the correct push rod length, remember that as the clutch pack wears down, the centre adjuster screw will be backed out, cut pushrod to length so that the centre adjuster is screwed almost flush with the lock nut for the new plate stack. As it wears in this leaves max adjustment.

The female threads into the outer ally case for the cable adjuster boss are 1/2" UNC, ( 13 tpi),, maybe get a small dia tube bend and weld to a drilled 1/2" UnC threaded rod about an inch long with lock nut to fit the casing , the adjuster could go mid cable. When I need stuff like this I go to the dump with a hack saw and an adjustable spanner, rake about in the metal skip for inspiration.

Last edited by gavin eisler; 04/06/18 12:45 pm.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731368
04/08/18 6:49 pm
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Cables, wires and electrics all sorted.

According to tracking, the rest of the parts should be here by Friday... Not long now.

[Linked Image]

Hard to see on the pic but I found some flexy heat protective stuff (in metal) I fit to the clutch outer and when you bend it, it stays put. No Idea what its realy for but found it at my local hardware shop.

Last edited by Manx; 04/08/18 6:52 pm.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731547
04/10/18 3:50 pm
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Could someone post a photo of the correct route for a tbolt rocker feed pipe please?



1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731976
04/15/18 6:36 pm
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Ok. Ive got a strange one here...

I`m finnished builing the top end and added oil and currently priming the motor.

When turning the motor over I get a click from the right hand inlet cam follower or cam. the others are silent.

What have I done wrong now?? Its not the tappet because I have taken the rod off the rocker arm to see if I could localise the sound.



1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731983
04/15/18 7:17 pm
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argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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A tight cam follower might do this, strip , examine, maybe a burr, dirt ? Remove idler pinion and spin cam with no push rods before pulling the barrels, that should help isolate it.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #731989
04/15/18 8:22 pm
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Ohh jezus..... thats 3 nights work. mad

Its a real real pain to fit and remove the head becaus there isn`t enough room to lift it without removing the studs.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732001
04/15/18 10:22 pm
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gavin eisler Offline
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Join the club , i got the lump in , then found the crank wouldnt turn last rebuild, cocked up the TS bearing spacing, now I just whistle at it and it jumps out ,I wish.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732002
04/15/18 10:43 pm
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That click is most likely to be the cam gear backlash as the valve spring loads change.
My motor is quiet when cold but once warm i get that noise, bit like a loose tappet.
You don't hear it at 6K+ so don't fret about it...............


No-one expects the Spanish Inquisition................
Bring in the 'Comfy Chair'
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732032
04/16/18 4:40 am
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Norway
Before I went to bed I span the engine a couple of times on the kick start and it clicks just before the both inlet valves are activated. The cam and shims and bushes are brand new.
The only parts that are re-used are the followers but I inspected them and they didn't look worn and moved fine in the seats.

I also span the motor without the head on and it was silent.

Why would the cam gear click on the 2 outer lobes?



1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732034
04/16/18 5:58 am
04/16/18 5:58 am
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Manx Offline OP
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Could it be that the followers dont quite follow the cam?

I used some sticky start up grease to keep the followers in the barrel but maybe that shouldn`t affect it while they are under spring pressure.

[Linked Image]

Didn`t get any sleep last night. cry

I`m loading up the video on youtube... comming soon

Last edited by Manx; 04/16/18 6:08 am.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732041
04/16/18 7:49 am
04/16/18 7:49 am
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Here!


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732042
04/16/18 8:27 am
04/16/18 8:27 am
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Posts: 302
Scotland
Bry Offline

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As NickL has already mentioned, take a closer look at timing gear backlash as the source of the clicking noise.

I had a similar issue recently on a Triumph engine I built - http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/728934/re-does-this-sound-right#Post728934. The dry timing gears made a considerable clicking noise, even although the backlash was not excessive. When I applied some oil to the gears, the noise reduced considerably and sounded normal, although I've not actually run the engine yet!


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732044
04/16/18 9:14 am
04/16/18 9:14 am
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Ahhhh....

I wasn`t ignoring Nick, I just wasn`t sure what he was saying.

The central timing gear went in dry and the sound could come from that area.

What did you oil yours with Bry?


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732045
04/16/18 9:31 am
04/16/18 9:31 am
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Scotland
Bry Offline

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I just squired some 20W/50 engine oil on the idler gear teeth with an oil can to test with the timing cover off.


1946 Velocette MSS
1955 Triton
1959 Velocette Venom
1966 Triumph T120
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732047
04/16/18 10:19 am
04/16/18 10:19 am
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Ok. Not a big job. I`ll try that tonight.

cheers.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732102
04/16/18 9:05 pm
04/16/18 9:05 pm
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Wow fellas.... I will sleep very well tonight.

Thank you so much!

[video:youtube]https://youtu.be/7QU4n6GictE[/video]

If I told you that the motor was completely quiet after oiling the timing cogs I'm pretty sure you wouldn't belive me!

If I have to remove the inner timing cover again I'm pretty sure I'll remember to empty the gear box next ...

Hahaha


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732112
04/16/18 10:27 pm
04/16/18 10:27 pm
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Aus
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You don't need to drain the 'box, just tilt the motor a few degrees toward the drive side.

Glad that was the issue anyway.


No-one expects the Spanish Inquisition................
Bring in the 'Comfy Chair'
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: NickL] #732140
04/17/18 4:04 am
04/17/18 4:04 am
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Me too. I was worried that I had done something terribly wrong.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732152
04/17/18 7:34 am
04/17/18 7:34 am
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Norway
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Mocking up exhaust brackets...

[Linked Image]


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732228
04/17/18 9:22 pm
04/17/18 9:22 pm
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Norway
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So I have booked myself in to a motorcycle show on Saturday, in the riden to the show catogory and I havn`t even fired her up yet!

Made some fittings for the right hand pipe, hopefully do the other side tomorow. Unfortunatly the hole in the frame is in another possition on the left hand side to make room for the rear light switch so I cant just measure the stuff I made tonignt.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

I think it will be pretty sturdy when the tie bar is fitted to the headers, Made the bracket out of 3.5mm stainless.

I kicked them up slightly which is how they are fit on a picture I found in the Metisse book. Loads of room for the clutch cable and exhaust is off my leg for when standing on the pegs.

Last edited by Manx; 04/17/18 9:25 pm.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732389
04/19/18 7:07 am
04/19/18 7:07 am
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Tonights the night!

Going to (try) and fire her up. I just need petrol...

Wish me luck


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732392
04/19/18 7:50 am
04/19/18 7:50 am
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Posts: 2,233
Netherlands
Peter R Offline

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Good looking bike, your neighbours will love you for these open exhaust pipes.


Peter.
1974 Commando 850
1972 Trident T150T
1961 Goldie DBD34
1969 Benelli 250 sport special
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732395
04/19/18 8:48 am
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Norway
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I have fit internal baffels but bet that its still pretty loud.

Life is to short to worry about my neighbours.... haha


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732480
04/20/18 7:41 am
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Norway
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AARRRGGGHH!

So. Last night I was going to fire her up.

I am Running Electrex world 12v kit.

I had an ok spark 4-5 kicks, then nothing.

This kit works by charging a capasitor from the rotor, and the 65w to the lights.

I think the capasitor had som charge in it (which is why it fired a couple of times) and the CDI has either died or stator isn`t giving any charge.

Stripped the bodywork last night and disconnected the kill switch to eliminate that and nothing. completely dead.


Last edited by Manx; 04/20/18 1:00 pm.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #732527
04/20/18 7:13 pm
04/20/18 7:13 pm
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Posts: 10,251
Boston, Massachusetts
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John Healy Offline
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Are you trying to start the engine with the lights on?


Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: John Healy] #732791
04/23/18 6:31 am
04/23/18 6:31 am
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Manx Offline OP
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No!

I have absolutley no spark.

Dead.

I have orderd a new CDI, I ohmed the stator and that is working.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #733346
04/28/18 6:06 am
04/28/18 6:06 am
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Got the new cdi yesterday!

I'll strobe the timing today and tweak the carb.. maybe even take her for a ride.

[video:youtube]https://youtu.be/XuzCq-2Y-Wo[/video]


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #733365
04/28/18 11:22 am
04/28/18 11:22 am
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new jersey usa
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pushrod tom Offline
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Congrats! It's always a pleasure to see these things come to life. PRT

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #733857
05/02/18 9:12 pm
05/02/18 9:12 pm
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Norway
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Thanks PRT.

I went for the first ride today.

The bike feels solid, the gears are easy to select, sounds nice and the suspension works well.

My lights don't work so I'm currently searching for a loose connection or bad earth but it's running very rich.

Pulls like a train up to half throttle but burbles and blows black smoke.

I took off the filter but that didn't help so I moved the needle down a clip to see how that works out.

Luckily with the single carb set up, I only need to take off the tank to get to the carb ( just one screw).

I have a small oil leak in the rocker feed hose but otherwise it seems fantastic.

Starts first kick and nice tickover at idle.

Could someone explain what the 2 screws do on the AMAL (pilot and air) ? I'm not quite sure how U should set them?


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #734053
05/04/18 10:53 am
05/04/18 10:53 am
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Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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The horizontal screw controls the pilot mixture, screw in to make richer, out for leaner, the angled screw is the throttle stop and controls idle speed.Once the motor is warmed up ( after a short run) not just a few seconds of throttle blipping, adjust the pilot mixture screw to give the highest idle, then lower the throttle stop screw to the desired idle speed. Typical pilot screw settings are one to 1.5 turns out from fully closed in.

Last edited by gavin eisler; 05/04/18 10:54 am.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #734064
05/04/18 1:28 pm
05/04/18 1:28 pm
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markoz Offline
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Is a turn 360 degrees or 180

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #734087
05/04/18 3:28 pm
05/04/18 3:28 pm
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ohio
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360


When given the choice between two evils I picked the one I haven't tried before
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741142
07/08/18 10:35 am
07/08/18 10:35 am
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Bollox.

My second electrex world ignition went belly up and I ended up re-wireing the bike again but this time I went for a Pazon ignition system with a battery and rotor/stator and dyna coil.

Simplyfied wireing as per lowbrow customs diagram.

The bike just farts, burps and pops.

It wont start, even if I try bumping it. The battery was low yesterday 10.4v but I think that might be normal after 300 kicks and pushing the bike around the block a few times.

One fault I found was that the Pazon trigger was dragging on the crankshaft seal and moving position, so I measured an old Boyer trigger and put the pazon on my lathe so it now fits as it should.

I`m going to swap petrol and change the plugs but i`m seriously starting to loose hope on this engine. I can`t figure out why she wont start. just so frustrating.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741159
07/08/18 2:12 pm
07/08/18 2:12 pm
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Posts: 1,721
Mississauga, Ontario.
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Adam M. Offline
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It was starting before without a problem, wasn't it ?
Using Electrex ignition.
Are you sure everything is all right with your AMAL carb, you complained in former posts about excessive richness ?
Perhaps your petrol level is too high for some reason ?
Or your idle circuit got clogged ?
I'd take a carburetor off the engine and check it, those engines with one carb should start with one or two kicks every time.
If they dont, something isn't right.

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741178
07/08/18 4:25 pm
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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I charged the battery last night and because of the problem with the trigger yesterday I had really given up.

Started second kick


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741206
07/08/18 8:21 pm
07/08/18 8:21 pm
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Norway
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Went for a ride today, just lovely.....

Until I was going to start it again.

I think something has let go in my motor. It will only turn 30 degrees back or forth.

Gutted.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741271
07/09/18 11:07 am
07/09/18 11:07 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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Your motor is so fresh, its hard to imagine a main component letting go, may be something as simple as a jumped push rod, a quick look in the rocker box will help narrow stuff down. Was it running OK when it was last shutdown?


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741297
07/09/18 4:02 pm
07/09/18 4:02 pm
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Mississauga, Ontario.
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Adam M. Offline
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Usual teething problems.
+1 to Gavin post.

Had exactly the same batch of problems with my BSA, after converting it to 1 carb.
After everything was buttoned up bike didn't want to start and didn't work properly.
After I limped to a friend's shop we took a carb apart and realized it's missing one part in the body, small "chimney" going into carburetor cavity around a needle.
Normally it's pressed in into the body, and I just didn't check is it there or not.
All my problems disappeared at once.

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741363
07/10/18 5:45 am
07/10/18 5:45 am
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Stripped the motor last night and found that the tip of one of the cam followers was gone!

So lucky that it happend, when it happened. I found it with an inspection camera and manage the to dislodge it out of a balancing hole with the camera and a piece of wire.

This must be a first! Case looks good as it was stuck behind the oil pipe that leads to the sump.

Need to find some followers now asap so I can get it going before my summer holidays.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741364
07/10/18 5:46 am
07/10/18 5:46 am
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Norway
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Posted twice...

Last edited by Manx; 07/10/18 5:47 am.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741365
07/10/18 6:50 am
07/10/18 6:50 am
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Posts: 1,830
OZ
Triless Offline
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Bloody hell, Manx. Good save ! I won't make an asinine comment about being lucky, ' cos if you were this wouldn't have happened in the first place ! Was that component original, or current new manufacture ?

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Triless] #741367
07/10/18 7:28 am
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Norway
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Original follower that had been re-ground locally.

Those tips are hard, could have done a lot of damage if it let go while riding 90km/h.

I think I was very lucky. or very unlucky, depending on how I look at it.





1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741368
07/10/18 7:41 am
07/10/18 7:41 am
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Posts: 1,301
Bolton Lancs UK
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Andy Higham Offline
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Did the whole foot break off or did the stellite pad become detached?


BSA B31 500cc "Stargazer"
Greeves 200cc "Blue Meanie"
Greeves 350
Greeves 360 Challenger
Suzuki GSX1100 EFE "Sorcerers Apprentice"
GM500cc sprint/LSR bike "Deofol"
Jawa 500cc "Llareggub"
2003 Aprilia RSV Mille "Lo Stregone"
'35 OK Supreme
'36 OK Supreme
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Andy Higham] #741370
07/10/18 8:38 am
07/10/18 8:38 am
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Just the pad.

Some more good news, I phoned proberbly the only classic bike shop in Norway this morning and asked if they had some cam followers...

As it happens, he had a sett on his shelf.

"Are they in good condition? " I ask

" Good condition? " he replied

"they are new, and been on my shelf since 1971"

Haha, I hope the old price tag is still on them laugh

Last edited by Manx; 07/10/18 8:54 am.

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741371
07/10/18 8:42 am
07/10/18 8:42 am
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OZ
Triless Offline
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Now, that's lucky !

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741374
07/10/18 9:25 am
07/10/18 9:25 am
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argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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Thats a rare one, could have done a load of damage, so lucky / unlucky.great that the shop has the bits, just a top end strip / rebuild, could have been a lot worse.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741376
07/10/18 9:34 am
07/10/18 9:34 am
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Yeah, could have been horrible!

The bloke in the shop said its very rare (espesially on an A65) but its not the first time he has seen it.

I suppose that makes me "special"


Back to the carb.. I lowerd the needle and it runs great but is a little lean mid register. I take it the air screw affects the whole rev range? and I wonder if the brass screw (pilot jet) is adjustable, or should just be screwed all the way in?





1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741378
07/10/18 9:47 am
07/10/18 9:47 am
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Bolton Lancs UK
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Andy Higham Offline
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I wonder if they got overheated when re-grinding? The pads are silver soldered in place


BSA B31 500cc "Stargazer"
Greeves 200cc "Blue Meanie"
Greeves 350
Greeves 360 Challenger
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Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741391
07/10/18 12:17 pm
07/10/18 12:17 pm
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Manx Offline OP
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Could be.

Swapping them out with untouched ones should keep me trouble free for a while.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741421
07/10/18 7:01 pm
07/10/18 7:01 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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"I take it the air screw affects the whole rev range? and I wonder if the brass screw (pilot jet) is adjustable, or should just be screwed all the way in?"

The air screw has most effect for the first quarter of throttle movement, its affect on the rest of the range is minimal, this is an important zone all the same and well worth fine tuning, as a general rule err to be on the rich side of the air screw mix, there will be a dead zone of about a 1/2 turn where the idle speed is at a max, leave it on the rich side of this dead zone. This must be done when fully warmed up or you will be way rich.

The pilot jet is fixed, screw all the way in, presumably this is a premier? older concs had the jet as a drilling in the body, very early types had the jet in the float bowl roof, the tapped hole is still in the casting but its for 2 strokes now.

After 1/8 -1/4 throttle the cutaway has most effect, after that needle position, then NJ, then MJ at full throttle.

Needle adjustment is free, however dropping the needle to leaner cant really be compensated with the idle mix, a richer cutaway might work, try a 1/2 size less, . If it spits back from initial throttle opening when coming off idle then its too lean on the cut away, if its further up the range then you are limited by the needle clip gaps, these can be shimmed with washers for fine tuning, pretty easy to play with ., this will allow 1/2 step adjustments if needed.
What is the carb size?

You are pretty much on your own here for base settings, my 750 is in similar tune to yours but has twin carbs, stock 30s.
I dont know what size carb you fitted, stock tbolt size was 28, if you are using something bigger, 30 or 32, then you are on your own for settings, its not a common set up.
My experience is that for the same size carb 100cc more air flow for any given revs means it runs better with smaller jets than the 650 settings, 20 smaller on MJ, 105 NJ, 3.5 slide. These wont work for you , this just to illustrate why counter intuitively bigger bore using stock carbs create a stronger signal on the jetting.
it might be best to start with stock Tbolt single carb settings, try a smaller MJ or two.

As the carb size goes up so will the jet sizes, as a general rule, all else being the same, lower air speed needs bigger holes to keep ratios correct.

As a sort of side note, there has been the odd thread over the years when folk have tried fitting 30 mm carbs to stock 650 Tbolt heads rather than 28s, these invariably turned out difficult to tune, if you are using a 32 then possibly you will have similar issues. if using a 30 I would start with Tbolt settings.



Last edited by gavin eisler; 07/10/18 7:15 pm.

71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741423
07/10/18 7:15 pm
07/10/18 7:15 pm
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I`m on a 28mm premium.

Standard t-bolt jetting. It was running rich so I went down on the needle but now running weak.

My timing was all over place with the elecrtex world crap, so could have affected jetting.

Think I`ll pull the needle up again and do some plug chops in the throttle ranges to see how its doing and take it from there.



1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741425
07/10/18 7:30 pm
07/10/18 7:30 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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argyll. scotland, uk
Try a size or two smaller MJ , I kept going leaner till the revs would pick up as I rolled off from flat out, thats def too lean, went up two sized from there. A long straight on a hill flat out in 3rd is handy. i also use the choke control for the middrange, accelerating at part openings apply choke, if it slows then its not lean, if it picks up then it is.
Stock A65T was a 230 MJ, based on my experience with my 750 stock carbs i would try a 210, caveat your motor , ports / pipes are different to mine so YMMV, open pipes would change things right away. get the MJ right first , you may find the slightly richer needle setting is fine if the MJ is slightly reduced, have fun, i tried plug chops, old plugs are missleading, new plugs showed almost no colour on the porcelain at all all i could see change was the heating of the electrode and colour of carbon on the top rim. By the time you start worrying about wearing out the plug threads you should have it sorted, its not good to unscrew plugs from a roasting hot head, wears threads fast.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741426
07/10/18 7:41 pm
07/10/18 7:41 pm
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Norway
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Manx Offline OP
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Thanks. Yeah, I`m on a 230 main, 106 needle jet, 3.5 slide.


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741434
07/10/18 8:56 pm
07/10/18 8:56 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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argyll. scotland, uk
Re the cam follower failure, a few pages back you had a mystery click as the engine was turned, maybe that was a sign?


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741553
07/11/18 8:49 pm
07/11/18 8:49 pm
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 497
Cork Ireland
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chaterlea25 Online content
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Cork Ireland
Hi All,
Quote
Did the whole foot break off or did the stellite pad become detached?


I repaired a Commando some years ago that spat off a stellite pad on attempting to kickstart, again luckily it jammed the cam against the casing
preventing the engine from starting so no further damage done, it took quite a search to find one small chip of the stellite pad though!!

John

Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: gavin eisler] #741586
07/12/18 4:37 am
07/12/18 4:37 am
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Manx Offline OP
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Originally Posted by gavin eisler
Re the cam follower failure, a few pages back you had a mystery click as the engine was turned, maybe that was a sign?


The "click" vanished when I lubed the middle timing cog


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741717
07/13/18 6:39 am
07/13/18 6:39 am
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Manx Offline OP
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I managed to fit the new cam followers, jug and head last night and I can breath out a little.

I find fitting the central head bolt a little scarry and I wonder how many people have lost a washer or springs from the forward rocker arms down the barrels...

Should be up and running already on Saturday. smile


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741721
07/13/18 7:38 am
07/13/18 7:38 am
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Aus
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NickL Offline
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Aus
Put the centre bolt and it's washer into the barrel before dropping it on.
Then stuff some rag down the tunnel before assembling the rocker gear.


No-one expects the Spanish Inquisition................
Bring in the 'Comfy Chair'
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741736
07/13/18 10:11 am
07/13/18 10:11 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,255
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Offline
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argyll. scotland, uk
Magnet on a stick, head torch , bits of wire, lost my fear years ago, anything that falls in there is stopped by the cam followers.


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #741933
07/15/18 7:09 am
07/15/18 7:09 am
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Manx Offline OP
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Yeah! She's up and running again. Lovely. I hope it stays this way for a while 😁


1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
Re: Robs engine rebuild help thread [Re: Manx] #743262
07/26/18 8:13 pm
07/26/18 8:13 pm
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Manx Offline OP
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Ive already done 1000km on her, 600, just today.

She blued her pipes first run after I finaly got her toether again and wouldn`t idle. Runs like a champ and pulls like a train now.Ended up with 250 main, 19 pilot, bottom clip on the needle.

I also fit a Bob Newby belt drive clutch kit (works brilliant! )

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Last edited by Manx; 07/26/18 8:16 pm. Reason: pictures

1966 Rickman Metisse (a65)
1957 B33
1959 lambretta li 150
1960 lambretta li150
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