still 100.5 on the exhaust. advanced.

surely not . . . .

Kevin, what lift figures are you using before and after maximum lift to get the lobe center? If not already, use .100 instead of .040 that you may be using?

still looking, tony. was working nights and so went straight to the rack after work.

i was using 0.050, but switched to 0.075 or so, and things look somewhat better. back on a day schedule now.

my interest is in record keeping, as i'm planning toi retard the cams anyway on reasembly. but i wanted to know where i was at getting the speeds i had before.

shoo

up at 0400 tomorrow to drive another 14 hours. time to hit the sack again.

Hey kevin, your name was in the local paper......their was an article about your wife’s political campaign. I was disappointed.....article said “her husband Kevin is a truck driver.” Not a word about LSR : eek

lol, are you in the district she's running in?

i try to stay in the background. i did her website, but anonymously

https://www.shawnarobertsforcongress2018.org/

i can't get decent video of her. maybe when she talks at the quaker school this week.

give me a reference to the newspaper article and i'll put it on the website. she was on television news yesterday, i think. i'm not sure, as we don't own a television set.

I know I am not in the district, but parts of the area covered by the district is in the area the paper is distributed. I haven’t seen the article on the Times Reporter website, but I really haven’t looked. It was in the print edition.

looks like its a shoe-in for her to get the primary. her serious competition bowed out for health, the next one was short three signatures on his petition . . .

you need 50 signatures. he had 47 . . .

. . . and the last one is someone who runs every election as a hobby.

so she'll be running officially all year. we'll see what happens. if the incumbent has a stroke or gets caught creeping on little girls she'll be washington by christmas. or she might get more votes. who knows?

okay, took it very slow and serious, and wobbled the cam nose back and forth 0.100 to either side, which was surely enough. the cam centerlines that gave me 128 mph are at 101.5 degrees for the intake, and 104 degrees for the exhaust. both advanced a bit from what i wanted by a degree or so. megacycle reccommends starting out with 103 and 105 for this cam.

i'll be cranking these back to 104 and 107 before i clay them again, based on some good advice. one keyway ought to give me 104 on the intake, and another keyway on the exhaust might do 106.5. could get even closer if they're not cut accurately. who knows?

Those are the numbers I've gotten on my race bike, Kev. It pulls hard coming out of corners and keeps making power till I roll out of the throttle. Might be interesting to mark the camwheels at different timing numbers so you could quickly change timing at the track and just see what more torque or more top end will do for your best speed.

105-107 on my bike got the Kewpie Doll

i'd love to try that, but i may still be messing with intake and exhaust length. i was faztest with 38- inch pipes, 1 5/8 in diameter. if i change cam tiing tbat may no longer work. ditto carbs, right now theyre on the shortest stubs i have, but i can move them out 5 inches, 4 inches and 3 inches

i'll settle for that little piece of paper.

have to see where tbe keyways turn up.

104-106 is close enough .......You may have to change exhaust pipe length to match the cam timing

okay, time to get serious. i'm almost done with the preparations!



the gearbox leak that troubled me at loring turned out to likely be due to the bolts backing off that held th einner gearbox on. there's a hole that needs helicoil, as well.



i had some problems with the machine staying in gear, but i'll shim up the spring a bit. the actual gear dogs on the transmission looked fine, just rounded over a bit right on the noses. i think my problem was just the very awkard shift linkage, which i'm going to simplify this time around.



i'm not planning on changing clearances for the cam. the bronze tappet blocks that i filed and shimmed up ought to be okay, using a copper base gasket. i give up some some compression and quench, but the extra plugs should help with that:



pistons look fine as well, light scoring from no air cleaners, but that's all:



i'll be changing the cam timing from 101.5/104 centerlines to around 104/107. should be okay, but i'll clay the pistons again to make sure. megacycle reccommends 103/105 to start out.

then all i have to do is put the pieces back together:



and put it in:

The pistons on my bike looked worse that yours...I carefully removed the rings and keep them in order..Then wiped the pistons with a dry green scrubbie..Cleaned all the parts..reinstalled the rings in the same order...The bores had some scratches that more or less came out with a few strokes of a bottle brush hone..
What type/brand rings on your engine's pistons? I use the gas nitrided nodular iron rings that come with the MAP pistons..

i remember your pistons. nice to have asphalt to run on, even though we have shorter tracks than the salt and dirt people. i can only imagine what the bores would look like running on the dirt at el mirage-- that's all clay and silica. i have JE pistons that ed valicutt shaped for me from blanks at what i regard as horrifying expense, and i used the rings that came with them. they're marked "JE" with a "made in japan" origin, and typical asian packaging.





^^^these are from my spare pistons, because JE would only do four at a time, so i still have two brand new ones to look at.

bores still look pretty good, but i'll do a light scotchbrite on those and the pistons. i think i have about 50 miles on the motor, all told, with probably 25 of those WFO.

hey

she won the primary election, so its on for november. if she wins that one, then she has to go find a place to live in washington.

she says she's going to loring in july, too busy in the campaign for the fall races.

Yes I saw she won the primary. Part of her district takes in T-County I believe. I am not in her district where I live.

the district is 18 counties, 7 hours top to bottom, and larger than the state of connecticutt. district 6, in blue:



it was gerrymandered for the republicans, and so now the democrats are itching for the chance to gerrymander it for themselves.

for you non-yanks, this state is about 225 miles east to west.

I am close to D-6, in that tiny portion of far western T-County that juts into Coshocton County. I know they want to flip it, and as worthless as her opponent has been......it has been a fairly safe district represented by a fairly lazy representative. Enough politics.

You interested in doing a lap of T-County? It is possible to virtually ride the perimeter of the county on paved, gravel and in a few cases dirt roads. Maps out to about 250+ miles.

And don’t forget, OVBSAOC next weekend

shoot, i'd love to get the commando out. . the triumph is currently unpresentabl, and the thunderclone sprung a leak from the bbottom of tbe tank.


has it been a year since ovbsaoc? im off sunday. maybe i,ll be tbete.

okay, got the new 10-over rod shell bearings from ed vallicutt. (the guy that made my crankshaft had an "oops," (his words), so we started at 10 over.)

carefully removed the piston rings and set them aside, pegged and taped so they stay in the right place. then i took the rod bolts out. i'd measured them all before i assembled this crank, and the limit for ARP distortion is 0.001 inches. i'll look into them in a bit.



then i took out the shells to look over. looked kind of nasty- some striations from debris on the shells, probably dirt from the used oil tank that i thought i'd flushed out thoroughly when i originally ran this machine two seasons ago and didn't use an oil filter:





^^^they're hard to see, but there some needle-point scratches in the top layer of the bearing that look like there were a few pieces of micro-grit that were pumped into the bearing space. the crank itself is fine, way harder than the shells, and there are no marks at all on the journals.

what bothered me more were the little gray spots on the surface. i have an old dissecting microscope i look at stuff with (i used to be a paleontologist, and i can't help myself when i see something that might have fossils in it), so i put the cap under the lens, first at a magnification of 7x, then closer up at 40x:





this view is almost all the way across the shell at 7x:



this one is 40x. hard to focus on a curved shell:



and this one is also at 40x:



at first i thought the bearing surface was flaking away in tiny specks, and then the loose metal traveled a bit along the surface and then gets smeared into the metal again. there are both holes in the surface and smeared lumps on top of it. but then i saw that some of the striations have a little black speck at the end of the groove, and there are similar black specks embedded here and there. maybe i just didn't clean that oil tank well enough. i'm not using it now, as i swapped it for a chopper oil tank from lowbrow that would give me more carburetor clearance.

i mentioned earlier that this motor has about 50 miles on it, 25 of them wide open for forty or fifty seconds at 7000 rpm, and one run where i went through the lights at 8000 in third. i don't remember the make of these bearings (got them from ed), but the new ones he sent me are american made, and come in this box with a tiger logo:





all this was just the right rod. the left one looks to have fewer scratches, but maybe more flaking. i'll take a look at that one in a bit.

lol

it was lots easier to take pictures through a microscope back when i had access to a leica on top of a high-zoot zeiss, and a darkroom to boot. this 1930's Bausch & Lomb and my telephone camera are pretty hokey, but they do give me something to work with.

If you're off Sunday, come over Saturday as early as you can.

i'm scheduled to be on through the weekend, but i'll see whether i can swap saturday off for monday.

new bearing shells were very different under 60x:



and the ARP rod bolts all checked out at within specs. ARP allows 0.001 stretch before you replace, and three of these were all within 0.0003. the worst was 0.0005 or so, but that could have been my clunky measuring.



using a micrometer isn't the best way to do this, because you're measuring on a not-particularly even surface on the end of the bolt, but i consistently measured within 0.0002 on repeated measurements, so i figured that was good enough to detect a thousandths. the stretch gauge centers on the dimples on each end of the bolt, but i don't have pointy anvils for the micrometer yet. i've run out of time, so i'll torque the rod caps tomorrow. right now i'm just catching moments here and there.