It seems the new Futaba points I bought had a bent point arm post. The one that the nylon foot pivots on. It was ok at rest but bent down so as the speed increased it would ride out on the post distorting the alignment to the point LOL! edges were only skimmed of point surface and caught up the night it quit. I re-hooked up the Lucas rectifrier and his is it's output which is highter than the common diode box replacement I have on board as well. Halogen 45w low beam in clip.
Were on our way to spring and the crazy cold and wet rides will turn to springtime runs in the canyons of the Fraser. Steve
I do too, failed without me getting near it so I think deflection after 3500km's may have pushed it >mm to act as a ramp. The 3.7v led's are holding up great too and I have been through some streaming wet down pours on way home a few times. I put fabric backed rubber flaps over all wiring and under seat and that has helped. I think the Lucas ignition switch is going but have a couple of good spares that the current key fits. LOL! This carb was fresh off a canabalized bsa 441 on the auction syndicate site and my stock 930 with over 100k on it has a very bad bore and that is why any lifting of slide exposed the gap of loose slide causing it to bog and run very rich. I have a new KLG FE70 in there and a small exhaust leak but it feels solid. Hope to get 15k kms out of it before next bore. I like that it sounds like some of my steam engines at low rpm now and it does not sound shaky, too loose or stressed. Real happy I have done some much needed service and checks, cheap transpo at $1.14/L gas rates which should be .45/L S
Steve. I had a lot of troubles when running aftermarket points that had a nylon arm. This is apparently a car part that just happens to be the same as a BSA part so gets sold as replacements. The timing chest can get too hot which allows the nylon to soften so your points gap goes way out. Find a set with a bakelite points arm it will work a lot better.
I used Boyer for a few years but like to run without battery if need be and my alternator won't work well with the EI. The "new" used carb has fixed my richness issue as well so I should start saving on gas too now. My plug had no colour after 50km so I may go to an FE80 next. TT- I tapped the brass post from below towards the points and it got rid of the slop on the action. S
Well if your battery fails with high resistance and leaves you stranded at midnight then being able to pull the fuse, kickstart the bike and ride home with full lighting is an advantage I have used and now will not do without.
I would be more inclined to go for reliability and fit the electronic ignition, than stick with points and iffy bob weights on the off chance my battery will suddenly fail. In 41 years of riding I have never has a sudden battery failure, usually the performance drops off gradually. On the other hand I have plenty points failures
BSA B31 500 "Stargazer" Greeves 200 "Blue Meanie" Greeves 350 Greeves 360 Suzuki GSX1100 EFE "Sorcerers Apprentice" GM500 sprint/LSR bike "Deofol" Jawa 500 "Llareggub" Aprilia RSV Mille "Lo Stregone" '35 & '36 OK Supreme Kawasaki ZZR1400 "Kuro no senshi"
battery weight was a consideration at one time but I use $12. gel cell batts that are cheap and last only a year or two. In 165 work days of a 24km commute in traffic the BSA only stopped once and at night so eliminating battery allows better diagnosis as well as the bike does not require it to fire. I've left my switch on a few times and was saved by the 2Mc cap and rectifier. Steve -I have a zenor spare mounted as well and 2 condensors running. LOL!