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Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: Zombie] #617312 09/13/15 4:30 pm
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quinten Offline
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Originally Posted by Zombie
Golden "shaft things" don't start fires, and the cost per month to run one is equal to an Edison lamp per 7-10 days. The 36" version radiates 150*f at 38 watts, and is good for a 500 cubic foot area. It is also thermostatically controlled so the cost per month will be lower than what I stated in an enclosed area.

In a marina in Connecticut (Norwalk Cove) we ran 2-3 hundred of these for four months a year, and the electric bills were still lower than the summer months.

There are reviews all over the interwebs on these.

There is a reason for joining the 21st century. We have better thingys.

I applaude the sales force and marketing for this device
In convincing boat-owner to part
With their boat-dollars.

But at 38 watts it would take
2 of these units to equal the BTU output
Of a single candle flame .

A 40 watt light bulb in a bucket of sand is about as effective
And 39 dollars cheaper.
.
.

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Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: dave jones] #617322 09/13/15 5:33 pm
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Zombie Offline
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LOL... Yep! You're about right on that.
I like the bucket of sand idea. I use that in the lab quite often to evenly spread heat, and avoid hot spots. It is a good idea.

fact remains I prefer these to any other method I have tried over the years. It still comes down to the cost of running, and service life.

Since B.O.A.T.= Break Out Another Thousand, I wonder what F.R.U.G.A.L could stand for?
I won't even try. I suck at Scrabble.

Oh yeah... Gun owners love these thingy-s. I wouldn't want to "T" off gun owner w/a bad product. I can out run the average boat guy
Just sayin'

Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: dave jones] #617789 09/16/15 6:25 pm
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Being tight-fisted I make a giant plastic bag out of polythene and lob a few handfuls of rice in there to absorb moisture in the air then seal it with tape. The mass of the bike will always have significant thermal inertia so will always get condensation on it when the temp rises. I tried a breathable cover and it was absolutely useless at stopping anything, but at least it didn't slow down the evaporation or the condensed water from my bike.

HTH.

Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: dave jones] #617810 09/16/15 9:48 pm
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You can also buy either 100% sodium hydroxide (powdered drain cleaner) or one pound bags of silica gell on Fleabay.

Either one is inexpensive (cost about the same as rice here), and will work thru a few months.

The The sodium hydroxide is a little dangerous once it is saturated so a little research is helpful but it works.

Both of these are less expensive than Damp Rid (which is sodium hydroxide)

Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: Zombie] #617845 09/17/15 4:37 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Dave,

Originally Posted by Zombie
one pound bags of silica gell on Fleabay.

The destructions with the 1/2 kg. bags of silica crystals I bought years ago from one or other of the DIY chain stores advised that the bags/silica could be dried out for reuse by a short period (10 minutes?) in a low-temp. (100 C?) oven. Advice was against nuking by microwave because it breaks up the crystals.

Hth.

Regards,

Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: Stuart] #617862 09/17/15 7:52 am
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dave jones Offline OP
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Thanks for the new posts. From all the info I think that my best bet would be to do something to the garage itself.

Dave

Last edited by dave jones; 09/17/15 7:53 am.
Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: Zombie] #617869 09/17/15 9:17 am
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Originally Posted by Zombie

fact remains I prefer these to any other method I have tried over the years. It still comes down to the cost of running, and service life.
'


The cost of running is directly linked to the wattage of the electrical device. And the heat output. Which is why a light bulb is just as good and a fraction of the cost.

You don't get any more energy out of the device than it is rated at, a 38w golden shaft only gives 38watts of energy back to you. Whereas a 100w light bulb gives 100 watts back. (Of course some of the light bulbs power is lost as pesky light.) Remembering that the running cost is higher. We all know light bulbs are cheap.

So of course the golden shaft is costing less to run than a 100w lightbulb, it's not doing the same job.

The correct question would be how much heat energy do I need for my specific situation, not is this product better than that product.

I've cooked a chicken in a very well insulated box, which only had a 100w light bulb in it. If you put your bike in a quite well insulated space, you can maintain the environment with a small amount of watts.



Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: dave jones] #617893 09/17/15 12:09 pm
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Originally Posted by dave jones
Thanks for the new posts. From all the info I think that my best bet would be to do something to the garage itself.

Dave


That will protect the small items from damp air to an extent, but there is always dampness in the air in garages, even if like mine they are dry lined with painted floors. It gets in round the doors etc. The mass of a cold machine will attract the dampness from the air and condense it. Now that I am back in England at a lower altitude where it is much drier, I am going to try just wiping all chrome and alloy over with an oily rag to stop the chrome suffering.

If you have deep pockets, running a dehumidifier in the garage is good, but only if it is pretty dry in the first place.

Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: Blapper] #617918 09/17/15 3:06 pm
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John Healy once said this about garage storage.


'64 TR6R Plus some Twins from other countries (U.S., Germany, Japan)
Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: dave jones] #617971 09/18/15 3:57 am
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dave jones Offline OP
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Thanks Blapper and TR6Ray.


John Healy says that a heated garage causes more condensation. Surely if the bike is warmer than the outside temp then water won't condense on it if you opened the door. If the bike was colder and the outside was warm and wet then that is when you would get condensation (?)

Last edited by dave jones; 09/18/15 3:59 am.
Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: dave jones] #617977 09/18/15 5:03 am
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Ger B Offline
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I think what is ment is:

When you ride a cold bike from the outside (only the engine and the pipes are hot)
into a warm garage, moist from the warm air inside the garage will condens on the cold parts of the bike.

Sometimes in the condensation on the tank you can see where there is fuel in the tank and where not.
The fuel - a liquid - cools the metal of the tank faster than the air / fuel vapour mix above the liquid fuel.
So the fuel part of the tank is wet, the upper part is dry.

People who wear glasses know the effect of coming from the cold outside into a warm house.
The glasses fog up.


Ger B

Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: dave jones] #617983 09/18/15 5:42 am
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Stuart Offline
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Hi Dave,

Originally Posted by dave jones
John Healy says that a heated garage causes more condensation.

As I do more things in a (heated) garage than just store bikes, I'll live with it. grin

Regards,

Re: Indoor Bike Cover [Re: dave jones] #618005 09/18/15 10:35 am
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John Healy Offline
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Quote
That is unless the garage door was NEVER opened.


In areas of the country where there is high humidity you want to store your bike in a place where it will not be exposed to rapid swings in temperature.

An INACTIVE VENTED unheated garage, or shed, covered in a cotton sheet is a perfect to store you bike. Condensation happens when warm, moisture laden air (high humidity), contacts a cold surface.

A heated garage is typically attached to a living space. This kind of garage will have more of the naturally occurring household moisture than an unheated garage. The difference in temperature needed to cause condensation doesn't have to be that much. Just look at your bathroom mirror after you take a shower. The difference between the moisture laden air and the mirror is only a few degrees. Opening the garage door on a bitterly cold day can be enough to make the difference. The cover surfaces, being closer to the floor, are all ready a few degrees colder than the warm air above. The sudden raise in garage temperature as the heater brings the room back to set temperature can be just enough to cause a small amount of condensation inside the engine.

Replace all of the fluids before storage which will remove any water already inside the engine and renew the anti-rust additives the oil must have to prevent rusting. And remember many "break-in" oils do not contain any rust preventing additives.

Of course when I say inactive you can get into problems in an unheated garage, or storage shed, when you have an abnormally warm day in Winter and open the door. The key is to expose the motorcycle to as few rapid changes in temperature where warm air can contact the cold (cooler) cases.


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