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A65 lower rear engine bolt. #602305 06/01/15 7:31 am
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Andy Carr Offline OP
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Does anyone have a painless method of installing the lower bracket-to-frame engine mounting bolt?

I'm working through the rebuild and had managed to get the engine bolts in and fastened, then after searching for a suitable position to mount the Hide-De-Hi oil filter on athe A65 frame realised that a Norton type filter would be better, the new filter needed the lower bolt to come out and now it is refusing to emerge from the frame tube. I know that this must be a question of the rear plates bearing on the bolt to change the trajectory, and I've loosened all the engine mounts off, but it still won't come through. If there's a technique to this, please put me out of my misery.

If anyone is looking for a Hide-De Hi filter kit with two spare filter I have it on eBay (#131525736779). Just looking to recover the cost of the Norton kit.

Andy


1973 Lightning
1966 Lightning

So lightning does strike twice.
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Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602313 06/01/15 8:21 am
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Mark Z Offline
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I recall I had to drive mine out once, with a drift of some sort, at least far enough to grab the head with vise grips. I managed not to wreck the threads on the end of the bolt - either it wasn't super tight or I used something soft like aluminum for the drift.

With the rear bolts out, the weight of the engine will be on that bottom bolt. A jack under the engine may help to relieve that pressure.



Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602314 06/01/15 8:29 am
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Andy Carr Offline OP
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This is what I thought too Mark, and have tried a bottle jack. I think the tunnel in the frame has a ridge where it meets the end plate it's welded too, which the bolt is hitting. It's impossible to view the tunnel from the primary end to see the obstruction so jiggling the engine and plates may be the only way.


1973 Lightning
1966 Lightning

So lightning does strike twice.
Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602334 06/01/15 10:46 am
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Andy Carr Offline OP
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Success!!

I positioned a bottle jack to bear on the frame tunnel the bolt passes through (earlier I had applied the jack to the engine). Tried pushing the bolt home, and it wouldn't move. A tap with a rubber mallet and in it went.

How can such a simple resolution create so much euphoria!

Andy


1973 Lightning
1966 Lightning

So lightning does strike twice.
Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602343 06/01/15 11:07 am
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Lannis Offline
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A related question for the board -

I know that some parts that don't look like they do much actually ARE NECESSARY for operation of an A65.

Examples would be the head-steady, the exhaust crossover/brace, and the fuel tank front strap. Leave them off and something will break. And we know that because people leave them off all the time and something breaks.

How about that little tin cover that screws with three tiny cross-head screws to the inner timing cover at the rear of the engine? You CANNOT put it in place before you install the engine, because the lower engine bolt won't go in. And AFTER the engine is installed, you have to bend the little cover to put it in place, and then you can only attach two screws, and that with difficulty.

What if you just leave the poxy, rattly thing off?

Lannis


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Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602354 06/01/15 11:48 am
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Gary E Offline
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As for the two bolts, I've always been able to get them in or out without forcing them...provide they are the correct length ones. One of them has a rounded head to facilite it going in and just barely clearing, but rubbing on the case. The sheet metal chain cover goes on to, but is an awkward install using a right angle screwdriver. A real SOB to put on. I surmise having it on keeps some of the road grime off of the chain.


1967 BSA Wasp
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Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602378 06/01/15 1:16 pm
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KC in S.B. Offline
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Yep,... that botom bolt is a real bugger. As mentioned, even the rounded head is necessary since it is such a close fit. I try to install the left plate and the lower bolt together 1st, before pushing the larger top bolt all the way through from the right side plate. Top bolt is in the right side plate, and engine, but just supporting and not interferring with the left side plate yet.
Oh, and YES, I leave that chain/sprocket tin cover off. Not had any issues, and very little mess seems to come UP, as most drips down. I'd have to install it if entered for Judging. Just my .02

Last edited by KC in S.B.; 06/01/15 1:20 pm.

Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
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Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602385 06/01/15 2:01 pm
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Ola Offline
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Tin cover, oh yeah. I have found two ways to deal with it. I loosen the oil manifold under the engine, and the bolt can be entered from the timing side; or replace the bolt with a stud bolt, which goes in from the t.s. without messing with the oil lines.

Regards


There are no bosses in a technical discussion
(Doug Hele, 1919 - 2001)
Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Ola] #602393 06/01/15 2:31 pm
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Lannis Offline
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Originally Posted by Ola
Tin cover, oh yeah. I have found two ways to deal with it. I loosen the oil manifold under the engine, and the bolt can be entered from the timing side; or replace the bolt with a stud bolt, which goes in from the t.s. without messing with the oil lines.

Regards


Hmm, I'm trying to figure that out. The oil manifold and oil lines are already off the bike when I'm fooling with the engine mounts and that tin cover. I have an oil filter whose mount is welded across the two mounting plates, so they slide out of the frame together once the bolts are out.

What is a "stud bolt"? Is it just a bolt with no head, and threads on each end? Even if you use that, I still don't see how you can screw that tin cover back in place .... ?

Lannis


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Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602418 06/01/15 3:27 pm
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Allan Gill Offline
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From memory I had the tin sprocket cover fitted before I mounted the engine, had the engine plates loose but fitted to the unit. The engine plate to frame bolt pushes through from the timing side anyway. The top bolt is irrelevant in which side you fit it from.

The biggest problem with the sprocket cover is making sure the engine - engine plate bolts are spot on length as too long and they press against the cover.

The whole arrangement is cleaner and tidier if it is fitted though. And if you choose to fit it post engine mounting then hex head or Allen key bolts can be used instead of a screw driver head. From memory I think they were 2BA

Last edited by Allan Gill; 06/01/15 3:29 pm.

beerchug
Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602421 06/01/15 3:38 pm
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Ola Offline
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As far as I remember, it is no need to mess with the plate when entering the bolt from the t.s.
It can be mounted when the engine is on the bench.

And yes, a stud bolt has threads in both ends. Perhaps the Queens Language has another name for this fine device.

Regards


There are no bosses in a technical discussion
(Doug Hele, 1919 - 2001)
Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602427 06/01/15 4:02 pm
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LeonGustus Offline
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And if the head steady is a tiny bit loose, you will adjust and re-adjust the tappets in a vain effort to resolve the valve clatter. You will only find the real culprit by accident. Leon


October of 69-A50R
Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602681 06/02/15 7:15 pm
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Mr Mike Offline
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I think I shortened that bolt by about 1/8th inch and used a very thin washer with a nylock nut. A stud bolt would work with two nylock nuts. I discovered this when I mounted my filter which mounts to the welded together brackets that Lannis described.

Mr Mike


Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Ola] #602724 06/02/15 10:51 pm
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Mark Z Offline
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Originally Posted by Ola

And yes, a stud bolt has threads in both ends. Perhaps the Queens Language has another name for this fine device.

Regards


Here we just call them "studs".



Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602778 06/03/15 9:35 am
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Tridentman Offline
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IME both in UK and US they are called "studs".
HTH

Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Tridentman] #602832 06/03/15 2:42 pm
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Lannis Offline
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Originally Posted by Tridentman
IME both in UK and US they are called "studs".
HTH


That's right, that's right, that's what we call them, man, same in any language ..

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Re: A65 lower rear engine bolt. [Re: Andy Carr] #602833 06/03/15 2:46 pm
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Ger B Offline
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Quote
same in any language

No... draadeind. laughing beerchug


Ger B


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