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Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567050 10/10/14 2:43 pm
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grandfathertyke Offline OP
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Electrics advice needed! I'm still some way off re-wiring the bike but can't find a diagram. It is simple stuff, I'm sure, but what I'm puzzled about is the apparent lack of a voltage regulator. Does the Lucas Magdyno have an on-board regulator that stops the dyno from frying the battery?

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Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567076 10/10/14 6:29 pm
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Originally Posted by grandfathertyke
Too late! The electrolysis is almost complete. It has softened and removed almost all the dried-on fuel and left clean metal behind. Would the answer now to be to complete the process and then treat with phosphoric acid to give the tank an anti-rust coating?

A problem we are experiencing in the UK with fuel systems is the effects of ethanol, which is being added in increasing quantities and is playing havoc with tanks and also with fuel lines. I've done a couple of restorations of 60s bikes in the last few years and have treated their tanks to electrolysis followed by a tank liner made by Frost Automotive. So far the liner has shown no sign of coming away from the tank, as some do, and has been impervious to attack by ethanol. I was thinking of going down that route with the Sloper tank. Any comments much appreciated!


You and the rest of the world.
Better to leave it bare clean steel and either totally full or totally empty.
A lot of petro solvents that are considered too dangerios for you to use in your workshop are disposed of via the fuel bowser. Any coating that is resistant to todays brew can not be guaranteed to stand up to what we will be forced to use tomorrow and removing a linner that is disolving into the fuel is not easy nor fun.
I had a mechanic sending me crazy trying to work out why a customers bike would work perfectly in his shop then refuse to run a few weeks latter in the owners garage. The culprit was the tank liner which was reacting with the particular brew that was being foistered upon the unsuspecting public in OZ at the time. No deposits in the carb any where it simply took out all of the low temperature volatiles so the fuel simply would not burn after it has been in the tank for 3 days
AFAIK the owner could not shift it so he simply drains the tank after each ride then refills before each ride.


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Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567077 10/10/14 6:32 pm
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You probably have a 3 brush generator. If so, it should have a cut-out, maybe mounted on the generator under the end cap.
This system also has a resistor built into the light switch for high and low charge.
I would ditch it and modify the generator to a 2 brush and fit a regulator.
Post some pictures of your generator and it can be determined what you have.

Re: Sloper [Re: BSA_WM20] #567114 10/11/14 1:17 am
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The voice of authority! Good advice. Thanks for that, Trev, I'll go with it. For the time I'll be using the bike (a few runs a year with the VMCC) I'd do best to drain the tank. How about sloshing a little oil around in it when empty?

Re: Sloper [Re: trevinoz] #567115 10/11/14 1:19 am
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Thanks for the prompt response, Trev. The Magdyno is away being rebuilt at the moment so can't post any pictures. The shop is due to call me with an assessment of what work needs doing, and it's at that stage that I can talk to them about the changes needed.

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567723 10/15/14 8:34 am
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[Linked Image]
Picture of damaged valve cap set up in the lathe to machine the hexagon off and prepare the surface for a new hex.

[Linked Image]

and the same valve cap with the new hexagon silver soldered in place and most of the large holes filled.

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567725 10/15/14 8:37 am
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grandfathertyke Offline OP
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One I'd forgotten about - the bike in its as-found state, untouched since 1978.

[Linked Image]

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567726 10/15/14 8:41 am
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grandfathertyke Offline OP
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and finally, does anybody out there know of a source of valves for the side-valve Sloper? I'm just putting the engine back together and the exhaust valve is badly pitted. Could do with another one, but can't find. Autojumble is one answer, but time-consuming.

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567731 10/15/14 9:24 am
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james rankin Offline
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grandfathertyke, That is a jewel of a machine. Also I would like to see more of the Myford.

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567750 10/15/14 11:51 am
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Fantastic bike...

If you cannot find a new valve or recondition the one you have (the seat surface can be re-ground), you may be able to find one that's close, dimensionally, and adapt it by, say, adjusting the length. Draganfly has a handy list of exisiting BSA and Ariel valve dimensions:

http://draganfly.co.uk/data/pdf/valves.pdf


A smattering:
'53 Gold Flash
'67 Royal Star
'71 Rickman Metisse
'40 Silver Star
'37 Rudge Special
sixtyseventy Lightboltrocket road racer...and many more.
Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567783 10/15/14 3:54 pm
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i have old stock valves, if you give the dimensions i can check them. however, on my old sidevalve sloper i just modified other valves to use more modern valve caps and trimmed down the stems.
Pat. A.

Re: Sloper [Re: mr.moto] #567786 10/15/14 4:23 pm
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grandfathertyke Offline OP
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Thanks. Have pm'd the dimensions to you.

Re: Sloper [Re: james rankin] #567789 10/15/14 4:30 pm
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Hi James, I have emailed you some pictures of my Myford. Probably outside the scope of the BSA forum and don't want to attract the attention of the mods!

Frank

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #567817 10/15/14 7:06 pm
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better to get new exhaust valve made from modern high temp high nickel steels.
The pre WWII valve steel was not particularly good at exhaust operating temperatures and were prone to stretching or bending at the neck.
which is why twin ports were so popular.

I will have a ferret through my papers and see if I can find the modern equivalent.
It was a desiel truck valve that needed the head turned down a bit to fit. Not a direct replacement.


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Trevor
Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #568157 10/17/14 7:59 pm
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Hi Frank,
I've been running my sloper on it's original 3-brush dynamo with no regulator fine for 3 years or so now. It only supports a 25/25W quartz headlight Bulb and occasionally it needs the carbon on the commutator washed down with cotton buds dampened in a (little !) petrol ...else it tends to be slow to cut in.. But other than that, its covered 7000 miles, probably no more than 500 in the dark to and from club nights. I traveled 120 miles in the dark, M3 and A34 etc to escape the campsite rain after an enjoyable day touring the Isle of Wight last Bank holiday. I used this wiring diagram, given by another sloper owner...I only use a lead-acid moped battery in a dummy Exide box as it relies on the battery to hold it to 6V. A modern sealed battery won't like the over-voltage if you forget to move the switch off the "C" or half charge position. But I very rarely do this and I have only to top up the battery once/twice a year at most and I've yet to blow a bulb... so all part of the experience for me. I have no reason yet to complain about 3-brush dynamos.
.
Hope this helps. Brian
[Linked Image]

Re: Sloper [Re: tzrewinds] #568193 10/18/14 3:50 am
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grandfathertyke Offline OP
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Brian, this helps very much indeed. Thanks a lot. Nothing like the voice of experience, and the diagram is what I have been after. Sounds as though you give your Sloper a pretty good workout; which year/version do you have? Also, have you ever done the Banbury on it?

Re: Sloper [Re: trevinoz] #568581 10/21/14 11:37 am
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Trev, word now back from the shop re the magdyno. As expected (as no spark from mag and no poke from dyno before sending away) both need pretty much a total rebuild. The shop will only rebuild to the two brush version, so that more or less settles it. They also supply a modern solid state regulator to wire in, but does that mean that the resistor in the light switch has to be removed??

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #568606 10/21/14 4:28 pm
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The resistor is now redundant but I think that the resistor switch is 4 position and you only need a 3 position switch with a regulated generator.
I am pretty sure that you could use your switch with modifications to the circuit.
I had better study the circuit diagram.

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #569941 11/01/14 2:20 pm
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Things somewhat in abeyance for the moment. Next big event will be the return of the magdyno, but that will take about 11 weeks. In the meantime, I've been getting on with smaller jobs, such as replacing the old, cracked tyres and checking out the wheels. The tyre on the rear wheel was flat and the tube had several punctures. When I examined the wheel, which had been re-spoked before the bike was laid up, I found that of the 40 spokes 37 had sharp, protruding edges which needed grinding off. Also, there was no rim tape. Somebody was probably going to risk his neck on this.

[Linked Image]

Another little job that had to be tackled was the front brake mechanism. As found, the adjuster was missing, as was the upper cable and brake lever nipple. I had to set to and make these, which are now fitted and working correctly. The front wheel with original spokes did not need any attention.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by grandfathertyke; 11/02/14 10:05 am.
Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #570126 11/02/14 8:11 pm
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Following along...keep up the good work.


"Don't trust your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." - Mark Twain
Re: Sloper [Re: Semper Gumby] #570173 11/03/14 12:23 pm
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grandfathertyke Offline OP
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Thanks for the encouragement! More to come.

Re: Sloper [Re: trevinoz] #592732 03/31/15 12:21 am
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Trev, the magdyno is back, fitted to the bike and all is working well. They were able to tell me how to deal with the switch; you are correct that the "electric fire" resistor is redundant. It is possible to remove it without damage and preserve it just in case it is ever envisaged (however remote) that the switch might do duty on a three-brush system.

I've got a lot of catching up to do with posting photos for those who like them, and will get on with it now that the bike is back together and working.

Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #592737 03/31/15 1:34 am
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grandfathertyke Offline OP
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[Linked Image] [Linked Image][Linked Image] IMG]]

Well, here she is. First time out of the garage after refurb. Doesn't look much different from the as-found picture, but a lot has gone on in the background. First off, I have not touched any of the paint finish. The bike has a good patina (including the dents in the exhaust system) and I'm leaving it like that. Other stuff I've done is as follows:

magdyno refurb by Moathouse Magnetos (first class job and came in UNDER estimate!); carb rebuilt as new by Martyn Bratby (far less than the price of a new one, and an amazing job); new tyres and tubes; new drive chains; battery platform sourced from British Only (Austria); new gel battery fitted in dummy case; complete rewire; non-standard but q.d. brake-light fitted for safety (after a VERY unpleasant experience last year on my 1927 Raleigh that almost saw me become the mascot on a car radiator); genuine Lucas replacement ammeter fitted; petrol tank cleaned out and leaks soldered up; replacement period petrol tap fitted but with modern in-line filter; all new Bowden cables made up and fitted, including metalwork for new front brake cable; clutch sorted out (thoroughly cleaned plates in petrol, but couldn't get it to work properly at first. I had dismantled it carefully and kept it all in the same order so thought that putting it back ditto would be the thing. I then discovered three things: the first was that no matter how I tried to set it up, the plates just wouldn't separate. I got out the spares booklet and checked the rod. Sure enough, somebody had fitted the wrong one in the past, and it was around 13/16 too short. Soon fixed by making up a new one, plus discovering that the ball in the operating arm was missing, naturally. Second discovery was that somebody (him again!) had assembled the plates in the wrong order. I found a sketch of the clutch online and was able to reassemble without resorting to trial and error. Imagine the dismay when I found that it was still dragging, and no amount of adjustment or swearing would cure it. Several beers later it dawned on me that the thrust bearing in the cover plate at the business end of the clutch was badly worn down, even though made of hardened steel. I softened it and drilled it out, then made up a new one of bronze which I made to screw into place. I'll be keeping an eye on the wearing quality of this mod.); engine oilways cleaned out; barrel honed ; hopefully correct grade of oil/grease added to gearbox (certainly quieter now anyway); brakes stripped and cleaned out before being rebuilt; wheel bearings cleaned and readjusted; all frame greasing points cleaned out and re-packed while checking for wear; plus probably n other jobs I've forgotten about.

Question; does it go? Filled up the tank, turned on the petrol, operated the tickler and kicked. There is a sequence, technique, call it what you want. Idiosyncracies might be a term. I didn't have the knack, so it took maybe eight kicks to get her running. The correct sequence is, turn on petrol, operate tickler until petrol floods from bottom of carb. Make sure advance/retard is set right back at retard with air closed. Turn engine over at least four times to draw fuel in. Find compression, ease over it with the valve-lifter then give it the swinging kick it talks about in the books and BOOM, off she goes first time. Tick over is quickly established as the engine warms up.

And to ride? I've reached my 70th year by being careful, so the first thing I always check on a bike is the brakes. These are good for a vintage bike, and with a bit of thought and planning ahead are quite adequate for the kind of speeds envisaged. The kind of emergency stops possible with modern brakes are not to be contemplated, so don't is the maxim. The gearchange is smooth and the gate is well thought-out. The gears drop into the correct slots without you having to look down, which is not the case with a lot of old bikes. The bike has a twistgrip throttle, which makes life a lot easier than the usual period lever device. My old Raleigh had one, and I could never get used to it. The times I have sat at traffic lights wringing its neck to no avail! Acceleration is brisk if not fast, and it is perfectly capable of holding its own in town traffic. In my opinion, with limited road time, it is a bike in advance of its time. As for managing the advance/retard and air lever, there is no difference from the ancient heaps we learned on in the 1950s. If you forget it, it will soon remind you and you adjust it.

So there we are. I've managed to secure a ride in the Banbury Run on 21st June and if you are there then say hello. I'm number 66 and just hoping for a safe ride and a finish. I'm now turning to my next project, which has been waiting for two years - an ex-Auxiliary Fire Service Matchless G3, another case of reliving days gone by when I had one in the 1960s as they were being sold off cheap. If anybody has any comments on the Sloper or questions, I'd be pleased to hear from you.

Frank


Last edited by grandfathertyke; 03/31/15 1:38 am.
Re: Sloper [Re: grandfathertyke] #592740 03/31/15 2:35 am
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It looks fantastic Frank!! I'll have to pop round sometime.. :bigt


Just a few Beezers.. ☺

Re: Sloper [Re: Ian Clifton] #592750 03/31/15 3:30 am
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grandfathertyke Offline OP
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Sure, welcome! Kettle is always on. Just PM me to make certain I'll be in.

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