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B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
#562658 09/11/14 3:52 am
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Hi folks,

Still enjoying my slightly "Goldy'ised" B33 and even taken to using it as my daily commuter in this fine weather smile

Question, could someone run through the correct procedure on how to align the bars so they are accurately at 90 degrees to the front wheel please ?

Mine is not far out, but I can just tell it is not fully correct as the top yoke can be seen to be slightly "out" when looking down towards the wheel.

I have slackened the the lower pinch bolts and then the top fork caps (and tapped them to release the taper) then slackened the axle nut and tried to re-set it all, but it seems to want to "relax" out of kilter. Should I be slackening the top pinch / clamp bolt (the one under the top yoke) as well ?

Note :- the bike is fitted with the full width hub with an axle retaining nut on the o/s and an axle pinch bolt on the n/s.

Thanks in advance for any advice on what to do (and perhaps even more important, what not to do !!)

Last edited by John Birkett; 09/11/14 3:55 am.

Current rides = 1959 650 Matchless G12CSR in near showroom nick, 1956 BSA B33 in "Goldy" trim (yeh, I know, cheesy but I like it !)
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Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
John Birkett #562704 09/11/14 11:43 am
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There really isn't an adjustment for the bar alignment to the wheels....however...

To get the tubes sliding parallel, slacken the axle pinch bolt, lower pinch bolts and the upper triple tree steering bearing pinch bolt. Bring the bike to a wall and fully compress the suspension by the bars several times. Tighten your bolts carefully so as not to torque any of your adjustments...sometimes re-compressing the suspension during the tightening process helps.

If you bars then aren't parallel to your front axle, something is bent. First most likely are the bars, then the fork stanchions...and finally the axle.

Good luck.


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Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
John Birkett #562711 09/11/14 1:09 pm
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This is not an engineering solution --but it certainly works! Back in the 1960s when a group of us had Brit bikes and would try to go as fast as we could everywhere and where if you didn't fall off at least once a week then you weren't trying hard enough----twisted forks were commonplace.
The accepted method to correct the twist was to be astride the bike with the front part of the front wheel alongside a lamp post.
Then suddenly [***] the handlebars around so that the wheel bangs against the lamp post. This twists the forks back to their original condition and-=--off you go!
Or--to be much more correct--use Alex's method!

Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
Tridentman #562751 09/11/14 4:31 pm
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Also check that the yokes aren't bent or twisted.

Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
Alex #562752 09/11/14 4:38 pm
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Originally Posted by Alex
There really isn't an adjustment for the bar alignment to the wheels....however...

To get the tubes sliding parallel, slacken the axle pinch bolt, lower pinch bolts and the upper triple tree steering bearing pinch bolt. Bring the bike to a wall and fully compress the suspension by the bars several times. Tighten your bolts carefully so as not to torque any of your adjustments...sometimes re-compressing the suspension during the tightening process helps.

If you bars then aren't parallel to your front axle, something is bent. First most likely are the bars, then the fork stanchions...and finally the axle.

Good luck.


+1, I use this method each time I work on the front end.


beerchug
Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
John Birkett #562789 09/11/14 8:03 pm
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Bent yoke.

Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
John Birkett #562828 09/11/14 10:22 pm
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Don't touch the top nuts or top pinch bolts on the fork legs
You are not trying to change the position of the fork legs . just the position where the botom clamp sits on them.
Loosen the front pinch bolt on the steering stem, not the top nut on the bearing.
Loosen the lower pinch bolts on the forks.
Loosen all of the mudguard bolts, both at the forks and at the guard.
Loosen the pinch bolt on the axel but not the axel itself.
I normally put the front wheel into a deep gutter and then twist the forks first then bounce them.
First nut to tighten is the axel pinch bolt followed by the top steering pinch bolt then the two lower pinch bolts and last the mudguard.
The retightening sequence is fairly important , the mudguard must be done last and you might need to take it out completely and do some pannel beating


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Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
BSA_WM20 #562835 09/11/14 10:56 pm
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If the tubes aren't bent then they shouldn't need any of that. If everything is slackened off they should just naturally sit straight. In every single case of bars not straight in my case, it's been a bent yoke. Easily straightened in a press.

Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
downhere #562881 09/12/14 8:05 am
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And if the mudguard or one of the stays is bent then they will tighten up just as crooked as they were before you started.
Which is why the guard is tightened last.


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Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
John Birkett #562982 09/12/14 8:25 pm
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You can have the last word then Trevor.

Re: B33, A7, A10 fork / handle bar alignment question
downhere #563085 09/13/14 10:31 am
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Thanks for all the replies folks :bigt

I did as some suggested, (I think it was Alex first) and undid the bolts/clamps as per ^^^ and adjusted things (with the help of a garden gate post) so that when the wheel was "straight ahead" the bars were in the correct position, at 90 degrees to the wheel, then retighened up in the sequence outlined above ^^^.

The alignment was not that far out really, but I could see it was not "bob on" and I like things to just right. Which leads me to wonder what might be out of kilter to require me to semi forceably adjust it to get it right. I know it's not the bars because you could see the misalignment at the top yoke, and I know it's not the axle because I checked it on a kitchen work top.

It was mentioned above, more than once, that a yoke might be bent. Looking at the design of the yoke and the nature of the misalignment that was present, I find it hard to understand where / how it could bend in a "plane" that would cause this (ie back and forth rather then up or down). However I am of course ready to be educated wink

I do remember in my youth (on a same model bike = B33) doing the afore mentioned "bash it into line" trick. I used to use a lamp post (after slightly slackening the lower yoke clamp bolts).

Anyway it seems ok now. Thanks again for all the input. One of the better forums I frequent this one is :bigt

Last edited by John Birkett; 09/13/14 10:50 am.

Current rides = 1959 650 Matchless G12CSR in near showroom nick, 1956 BSA B33 in "Goldy" trim (yeh, I know, cheesy but I like it !)

Moderated by  Allan Gill, Jon W. Whitley 

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