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Valve adjustment question
#506683 09/16/13 8:41 pm
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 354
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62 A10 SR on a ride things seem great starting first kick several times plenty of power 60 miles into ride Exhaust rod slips out? Valve spring still look good valves were 8 in 10 out thousands gap (set 200 miles ago) rocker arm seem tight getting oil good. Adjustment nut were still tight.Cam lifter seem ok. Any thoughts?
I always thought things got tighter as they heat up.
Thanks


57 A10 GF
61 A7
61 A10 GF
63 A10 SR
76 CB 125 Honda
76 FLH
2012 FLHTP
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Re: Valve adjustment question
Red Lapierre #506696 09/16/13 10:09 pm
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Sorry Red,
But I've gotta ask; WHAT'S an exhaust rod?
D'you mean a push rod? I may think so, since the rest of your post talks about the valve train?

If so, you may want to remove that rod, make sure that each end is whole and complete, and roll the rod on a flat piece of glass, making certain it's straight?

... Maybe the bottom end wasn't really on the follower correctly???
I've heard of that happening...

Best I can do for now...
Brett

Re: Valve adjustment question
Red Lapierre #506703 09/17/13 12:13 am
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Red, I don't think the valve adjustment is in question. The rocker end would have to be almost completely backed off to let the pushrod out of place.

I also have to believe that the rod was on the cam follower starting out, or it wouldn't have run that long.

If the pushrod is not bent or broken on the end, another thing that could cause this to happen is a stuck valve. If it turns out that a stuck valve is the culprit, you'll have to remove the head and check for a bent valve and/or piston damage.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: Valve adjustment question
Red Lapierre #506716 09/17/13 4:02 am
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valve sticking in the guide is the usual.


BSA lightning
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Re: Valve adjustment question
Red Lapierre #506725 09/17/13 5:46 am
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Rickman yes exhaust push rod.
Valve are new but I will check. Rod is straight both end are on.
What sucks is this is one of the only bikes that survived a flood we just had in early August.
2 - HD and 3 BSA under water. This one was on a lift.
I have pulled motors and have them in oil to stop rust don't have time to do much more right now. Got to get new boiler in. So funds are low.
Better days ahead I hope.
Thanks for the help.
Red

Last edited by Red Lapierre; 09/17/13 5:08 pm.

57 A10 GF
61 A7
61 A10 GF
63 A10 SR
76 CB 125 Honda
76 FLH
2012 FLHTP
Re: Valve adjustment question
wak #506732 09/17/13 7:30 am
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Originally Posted by wak
valve sticking in the guide is the usual.


+1

especially as you say you HAVE replaced the valves. Not all valve stems are the same thickness and can vary by a few thou - which is enough to make one stick.

You should IMO be able to spin the valve freely up and down its shaft, it should also be able to seat fully and come out fully with no binding. I do this and ensure the components are dry!

Look for abrasion in the guide, and the valve stem. Also make sure there is no fouling of burnt oil in the guide.

If the valve stem proves to be straight by rolling it along a sheet of glass, buy an adjustable reamer and slowly and carefully ream the guide. clean fully with soapy water and a small bottle type brush to make sure there is no traces of loose bronze/iron from the guide.

HTH


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
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Re: Valve adjustment question
Red Lapierre #506771 09/17/13 12:49 pm
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I had this issue on my B40. Bad guide material was the cause.


A smattering:
'53 Gold Flash
'67 Royal Star
'71 Rickman Metisse
'40 Silver Star
'37 Rudge Special
sixtyseventy Lightboltrocket road racer...and many more.

Moderated by  Allan G, Jon W. Whitley 

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