the lever reaches the handlebar grip.will it fail an mot like this?
when adjusted the lever reaches the handlebar grip.
if to much adjustment is taken up the wheel locks and the lever still touches the handlebars.
At the risk of telling you something you know already, are you adjusting the shoe levers first, then the cable?
1. Adjusting the shoe levers is a three-handed job,
because you need one hand pushing each shoe against the drum while the third hand adjusts the link rod between 'em.
2. Then there should be just enough clearance that the wheel should rotate but, as soon as you start to squeeze the lever, the wheel should stop. In reality, depending on the amount of ovality in the drum and that the radius of shoes simply just fitted are unlikely to match the radius of the drum. If either or both are too much, you'll have to have so much clearance that the handlebar lever pull can't compensate. Having the drum turned to eliminate ovality and turning the shoes mounted on the brake plate so the surfaces match the drum will eliminate these possiblities contributing to your problem.
3. After adjusting the shoes, how much adjustment are you having to make to the cable? It should be only a little.
4. Finally, do you have a good-quality heavy-duty branded cable? If you don't, or you aren't sure, replace it (I have a Venhill on my T150).
5. When you squeeze the 'bar lever of a well-set-up pre-'71 tls at a standstill, it can appear that the lever's coming close to the 'bar; on the road, with self-servo and other effects working, ime the lever doesn't come anywhere near the 'bar. :bigt
Finally, you might receive other advice that you should get a cable without a brake light switch; fwiw, my T150 has a cable with a switch and I've thrashed it 'round Cadwell without any problem other than the brake fades after about twenty laps (but we are talking in excess of 600 lbs. bike+rider