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Engine sprocket removal #397923 10/08/11 7:42 am
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Towner Offline OP
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Hi,

yesterday I started the removal of gearbox and primary case on my Commando 850 MKII. But I had problems while removing the engine sprocket. I installed the puller and tightened the bolt very fast, but the sprocket did not come loose until some strokes with a heavy hammer on the center bolt. Now I am a bit afraid, that this had hurt the main bearings or the crankshaft. Has anybody experience with it. Can it tolerate some strokes with a hammer ?

Thanks
Ralf

Last edited by Towner; 10/08/11 7:47 am.

Triumph Bonneville 650 T120RV 1972
Norton Commando 850 MKII 1973
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Re: Engine sprocket removal [Re: Towner] #397925 10/08/11 8:21 am
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Peter R Offline
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The factory manual suggests to shock the side of the sprocket with a soft metal drift and a hammer to remove the sprocket from the taper, (This of course after tightening the puller).
However, a tap on the centerbolt of the puller can do no harm to the main bearings in my view.


Peter.
1974 Commando 850
1972 Trident T150T
1961 Goldie DBD34
1969 Benelli 250 sport special
Re: Engine sprocket removal [Re: Towner] #397926 10/08/11 8:58 am
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L.A.B. Online Content
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Originally Posted by Towner
but the sprocket did not come loose until some strokes with a heavy hammer on the center bolt. Now I am a bit afraid, that this had hurt the main bearings or the crankshaft. Has anybody experience with it. Can it tolerate some strokes with a hammer ?


That is the usual way to do it.


Re: Engine sprocket removal [Re: L.A.B.] #397929 10/08/11 9:57 am
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Towner Offline OP
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Originally Posted by L.A.B.
That is the usual way to do it.


Thanks ! Good to hear that I am not the only one to do it in this way. So as the sprockets often are very tight it should tolerate some stronger strokes (not full power of course ), don't they ?

I know this way to work with pullers. But as the sprocket was very tight I was unsure whether it is the correct way for the crankshaft at the end.

Ralf


Triumph Bonneville 650 T120RV 1972
Norton Commando 850 MKII 1973
Re: Engine sprocket removal [Re: Towner] #397947 10/08/11 2:36 pm
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gREgg-K Offline
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Originally Posted by Towner
[quote=L.A.B.]<SNIP>Good to hear that I am not the only one to do it in this way. So as the sprockets often are very tight it should tolerate some stronger strokes (not full power of course ), don't they ?

I know this way to work with pullers. But as the sprocket was very tight I was unsure whether it is the correct way for the crankshaft at the end.

Ralf


Ralf,
The problem is that person "A's stronger strokes" are never the same as "person B's" idea of stronger. Just this week I had a K2F in for service which had its steel drive stub broken away from its brass end housing.

http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h...iew&current=BrokenArmaturepieces.jpg

http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h...tion=view&current=BrokenArmature.jpg

Granted, a crankshaft is a lot stronger than a mag and Norton drive sprockets tend to be stuck tightly, but correct technique is always important because indiscriminate hammering *will* damage main ball bearings (less of a problem with rollers), and/or crank threads.

I find it much better to load up the taper with a proper fitting puller, and shock the sprocket hub directly with a punch.

Hope this is of interest,
.. Gregg


Spyder Integrated Technologies
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Re: Engine sprocket removal [Re: gREgg-K] #397965 10/08/11 7:33 pm
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Towner Offline OP
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Thanks,

I am not a big man, so my strokes are not such strong. Nevertheless it was not a weak tap, but I avoided very strong strokes, because I know that it is not very good to hammer on the crankshaft. I was not sure how strong the crankshaft of the 850 is. So its good to hear that they are not such weak. As I know has the 850 stronger bearings than the 750 as well.
So I hope no damage will be left. From outside it looks good.

Ralf


Triumph Bonneville 650 T120RV 1972
Norton Commando 850 MKII 1973
Re: Engine sprocket removal [Re: Towner] #398014 10/09/11 6:23 am
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Wilfred Offline
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Yes, the sprocket wants to stay on the shaft. When I removed mine on the Atlas, the puller jumped out and wacked my knee. Next time I will keep my knee clear. Not worried about the bearings as I am replacing them with superblends. Cheers, Wilf


"It's about the ride..."
Re: Engine sprocket removal [Re: Towner] #398046 10/09/11 1:35 pm
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Dave Comeau Online Content
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I don't use a hammer anymore in this area since you often would booger the crank end threads. I now use a crank end thread protector and a proper puller tool that is highly preloaded, if it doesn't pop, then heat lets it pop off without over heating the sprocket hub. Experience with the tools and procedure help reduce or eliminate damage. 2c


dynodave
BSA 3 1961-1963
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Re: Engine sprocket removal [Re: Towner] #398234 10/10/11 6:20 pm
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Towner Offline OP
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Hi,

I have the puller lent from a friend. I have no workshop - only a little garage. So should I buy an expensive puller to use it once in my life ? But I would do it more careful next time using heat.
The gearbox is on the way to a good workshop for an overhaul (layshaft bearing, etc.). I could do it myself, but for the costs of the needed tools (puller slide hammer, gearbox lockring tool, sprocket tool, etc.) the work can nearly be payed.

Regards,
Ralf

Last edited by Towner; 10/10/11 6:23 pm.

Triumph Bonneville 650 T120RV 1972
Norton Commando 850 MKII 1973

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