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trevinoz
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Change to synthetic oil.
#148020 09/06/08 5:31 pm
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 99
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I have been considering the change to semi synthetic oil for a while.

I have been doing some long distance work and the 1500 mile oil changes are getting tiresome and a tad inconvenient.

I have read various posts on the issue and have decided that a 20-50 semi synthetic designed for V twins would be a good compromise. Perhaps I will go for the Harley own brand as it is fairly easy to come by unlike other more exotic brands, and would guarantee a supply overseas. I will also add an aftermarket oil filter to deal with the detergent factor etc. My bike is a '67 T120 and the clutch does not share the engine oil.

My question is how to best drain the engine of old mineral oil. The tank is fairly easy I imagine. I will unplug it and clean it out. My concern is the engine itself.

Should I use an engine flush or some other method. And how clean does the engine have to be before adding the new semi synthetic?

Also ideas of brands of oil to change to are also welcome (British market preferably).


Matt
1967 T120
1999 BMW K1200RS
1974 Laverda "Brettoni"
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Re: Change to synthetic oil.
#148021 09/06/08 8:12 pm
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Synthetic oils are fully compatible with standard oils. No need to flush.
After all, the semi-synth is a mixture of the 2.


Spike Cornelius in PDX (Portland, OR)
1965 T100SC
And various others
Re: Change to synthetic oil.
#148022 09/06/08 8:13 pm
Joined: Nov 2005
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Born To Run
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Quote
Originally posted by kickstarter:

My question is how to best drain the engine of old mineral oil. The tank is fairly easy I imagine. I will unplug it and clean it out. My concern is the engine itself.
KS -

Three points:

1) You may want to continue to use your current oil until you get an external filter fitted...once you start to use the synthetic, the detergents are going to start loosening up the crud inside the cases.....you don't want that crud running thru your engine.

2) You don't need to be that meticulous about cleaning out the old oil before adding the new/synthetic. Pull the sump plug (flame suit on wink ) on the bottom of the case to drain the sump if you really want to get all the oil out (another 4 - 6 oz.). Just be sure to clean the area around the sump plug really well before removing and take care not to get any crud on the plug upon reinstallation.

3) With all the crud you'll be putting back into suspension and capturing in the filter, I'd plan on 1,000 - 1,500 mile intervals for the first couple of oil changes (including filters).

HTH,

Steve
[edited because I can't count]


'77 T140J
"Vintage Bike". What's in your garage?

"The paying customer is always right."

Fitting round pegs into square holes since 1961...
Re: Change to synthetic oil.
#148023 09/07/08 8:03 am
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What you propose is an oil change and using a different brand. Don't fret about details- just change the oil. Leave the sump plug alone.

Fitting a filter kit in the return line is a good idea but has no direct relation to the change to semi-synthetic oil.

You'll get differing opinions about oil here.


Amateur Loctite enthusiast.
Re: Change to synthetic oil.
#148024 09/07/08 8:43 am
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Thanks Gents.

I will be fitting the filter first as I had heard that all the crud would loosen up in the oil system. There is a certain amount I can see in the tank so I think a clean there will do no harm.


Matt
1967 T120
1999 BMW K1200RS
1974 Laverda "Brettoni"
Re: Change to synthetic oil.
#148025 09/07/08 9:03 am
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Quote
Originally posted by kickstarter:
There is a certain amount I can see in the tank so I think a clean there will do no harm.
If you clean it clean take it off and it right!

Or you will do harm by disturbing the crud.


Amateur Loctite enthusiast.
Re: Change to synthetic oil.
#148026 09/07/08 9:19 am
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"the detergents are going to start loosening up the crud inside the cases....."

Actually this is a misconception. The detergent in oil will only help stop the formation of sludge, it won't loosen anything in the system.

Re: Change to synthetic oil.
#148027 09/08/08 3:13 am
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MM -

Thanks for the clarification. Perhaps a better way of stating this would be:

"the detergents will allow *new* crud to run through the engine, instead of settling into sludge"

Crud is crud. Crud is bad bogie.

Steve


'77 T140J
"Vintage Bike". What's in your garage?

"The paying customer is always right."

Fitting round pegs into square holes since 1961...

Moderated by  John Healy 

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