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Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
Triumph Bulletin Board
22 minutes ago
I believe the main reason for using Hyvo is they are quieter and cheaper to manufacture compared to roller chains...US OHV V-8's most all used a stamped link Hyvo type chain for near 70 years...Typically they last 100K miles with the usual indifferent oil changes by most owners. Most guys building a performance V8 uses a #35 twin row roller timing chain because they arguably stand up better to hard use......If you see a video of a OHV V-8 timing chain that have no guides or tensioner driving a camshaft with 450 psi valve springs ...whipping around at 7000 rpm... you would never believe they could survive 5 minutes of use..

I see old photos of Triumph 500 GP racers with open primary drives...I would think the chain lubrication is not the best and why didn't the chain get overheated and kinked? My double engine Triumph primary uses 428 dual row Harley type chains and a few runs down the 1-1/2 mile track gets the non oil bath chain hotter than it needs to be ..Tom (Koncrete Kid) mentioned some chain drive open primarys using water cooling to extend chain life at Bonneville.You know, no one wants oil on a racing track surface..This would be when a full oil tight enclosure is not practical...
Modern open class dirt bikes can have 60 hp...Drive chains were always an issue no matter what brand...O rings chains have really increased life in dirty conditions... Think about the desert racing in the 50-60's, hundreds of Triumph 650 "Sleds" racing through sand and dust for hours at near 100 MPH at times...That gotta be tough on the chains..
21 222 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
26 minutes ago
I started with brake cleaner and then tried kerosene, alcohol, paint thinner, and lacquer thinner, but only momentary contact, not soaking. The remaining gasket material remained hard as a rock, and yes, as if it was vulcanized right on. Thoughts of space station mylar kept running through my mind.

After two or three days of soaking with motor oil (surface tension kept a nice bead of oil covering the joints) the remaining gasket material was noticably softer and I got a fair amount off with a razor blade. There are a couple places left to do and I think I'll pick some gasket remover today.

Even where I got up the thicker portions of gasket there's still a very, very thin, dark layer of ? I wonder if residue that thin would make any difference as to sealing? Even if it doesn't I'd like to get it all cleaned right down to metal, if for no other reason than not removing everything might make the job even harder the next time.

I have used scotchbrite before, but was never 100% sure that doing so was ok. But I guess you'd have to rub a long, long time to have any effect on the metal.

Oh, speaking of brake cleaner... I swear that I get light-headed just picking up the can!

Thanks to all posters for their suggestions!
7 133 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
44 minutes ago
Thanks Matt, I'll try the 3rd position.
Yes, I think its the clutch too. It's a 6 spring in terrible shape. As soon as I can find a four spring for less than $500 I'll get one.
With the bike off I cam find at least second. I'll test it on the bench when it's all apart.
7 227 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
The wee bolts on the spindle ends are just there to block the oil drilling holes, ,its not normal to have jets on the end of the rocker shafts.
4 109 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
2 hours ago
Try a torch just on the rocker itself if this is what is seized.

If you put the head into a hot oven the aly will heat faster than the steel. if you have similar steels then you need to isolate the heat to one part. so cold head and heat the rocker, you'll also want plenty of WD40 to spray on whilst its hot (careful it may spit) then heat again.
3 121 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
I used a 6v AC 1000ma output transformer to test it. Once I cleaned the rust out of the horn it was pretty loud when powered by the transformer. There's no adjusting screw like you find on some other horns.

I don't know what the output of the alternator should be and I haven't measured the output of mine, but my horn is pretty weak when powered by the alternator.
17 230 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
Originally Posted by Peter Gascoigne
So it's definitely a 66, just with an odd frame number?

Definatly a 66 frame. nothing odd about the numbers though, I was under the impression that all 66 bikes were A65T ****, A65L**** etc, least the ones I've seen
36 1,237 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
68-466 = pre 66
68-701 = 66-70
anything starting 71 is OIF, there are two heads that I am aware of for the OIF, look almost identical (think one of them is 71-1122)
5 89 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
4 hours ago
Dudes, just a reminder here, I'm a Truck Driver and I work for an American company. So I can't AFFORD to go into expensive restaurants, what gave most of y'all THAT idea... shocked

jfligg lad, I hanker to get to Canada SO darn much, and once the time/fiances/stars and planets are in line, I'll be there in a New York heart beat... No Doot Aboot it Eh.. bigt

Bryan lad, I've got my head around that *tipping* nonsense, but this here plate thing is just stupid. You squash into a booth, in the dinnor, and before you know it, there's a plate with Eggs over easy, and some hash browns, another with bacon fried to a solid strip, a plate with square sausage meat, another one with some scrapple. And then you're all squashed up on the table as well... crazy

And if your sat with someone whose name you don't know...( wink ) you'd have to move to another table, due to the masses of plates on his side of the table... facepalm
12 204 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
5 hours ago
There aren't many M series bike builds here. I'm interested, I say go for it.
8 255 Read More
Ariel Forum
5 hours ago
MM, have you thought of using solid carbide gun drills for the valve guides? They are very stable and are available in inch sizes from Sandvik, they can be used for "shallow" holes as well.

Rob C
864 73,134 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
6 hours ago
yes, you can easily damage a needle bearing by hitting it too hard.

you can not suck enough heat out of the case with a cold bearing to make a significant change in the size of the hole because you are only cooling a miniscule area compared to the rest of the area that is heated which tries to heat the area being cooled as fast as it is being cooled.

the entire idea of making the bearing smaller and/or making the hole in the case larger so the bearing goes in easier is based on the difference in temperature between the 2 items. heating the case a lot and the bearing even a little is useless as it defeats the purpose of the exercise. you might as well simply heat the case less and not heat the bearing at all as you will achieve the exact same results.

it is sometimes better to heat the entire case to 350 and then install the bearings out you need an accurate infra red gun to check the case temp periodically and you need to remove the case from the oven to check it.

i guarantee you with 100% certainty that if you heat the case enough and freeze the bearing, it will in fact fall into the hole, and this will happen so quickly that there is zero chance of the hole in the case closing up and the bearing expanding fast enough to make it tight before the bearing is all the way in.

do not use a bearing scraper. all you want to do is smooth any high spots in the hole caused by gouging etc. this can easily be done by wrapping 280 grit paper around a deep socket that is slightly smaller then the hole then moving it up and don against the gouged area or carefully try rotating it back and forth. if you paint the inside of the hole with black lacquer paint, you will easily be able to see exactly where you are removing material. sanding it wet is sometimes better.

11 123 Read More
Members Bike Projects
6 hours ago

It would have had a gold hand pulled pin stripe separating the two colours. These would quickly disappear with over zealous polishing or general wear and tear.

26 462 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
8 hours ago
Hi Reverb, Triumph did some things like the 1/4or 5/16 lines that only they understand. My Tiger has 5/16 lines. Just the way they came. The bore of the needle & seat is not very big at all. No reason for 5/16 as carb cannot accept near that amount of fuel. The larger lines look cool though.

Use what works best depending on taps & carb fittings. Flow test any tap you get so you know what it will actually flow. There can be large differences in flow. The outlet fitting is no indication of actual flow.
10 180 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
8 hours ago
Kawasaki ran points on many models until the early 80's. Then they went to a simple IC Igniter with a mechanical auto advance. I like this system because you can monkey with the advance curve. smile

Having Triumph do this before Kawasaki was a real coup, I think. It was pretty vogue to have. It was SO modern. Having it made by Lucas made many suspicious of it though. I was weaned on pre units and English cars and saw that many Lucas products were of a very high quality so I never really bought into that particular myth, myself.

So, it was probably marketing reasons driving the change or possibly getting a head start on it because it was seen as inevitable anyway.

The TR6 that lived in my garage for the last six months as it was posted for sale had a unique hybrid system. It had the single Lucas Rita pickup plate in the timing chest and one of the early Boyer analogue brains under the tank.

It worked fine for 20 years. However, with only one pick-up, there is no way to provide retarded timing at idle speeds.

Also, there is another option for the PO. There is a points body that was used on 60's Nortons that has the triangle shaped mounting base. Any of the current crop of solid state ignitions will bolt right in there. You only need to fab up a cover for the unit and fit the proper gear for the timing chest.

I made up one of these once and it worked very nicely. There is also a reproduction of these produced, but I think the Norton unit can be had for a bit less money.

56 996 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
9 hours ago
I just had another thought: Is it possible that the brake plate is not going all the way onto the brake drum?
13 2,484 Read More
9 hours ago
1 61 Read More
The Competition Forum
9 hours ago
...the thing is a work of art and still looks Triumph not like the Velocette in the Pub s thread.
He says that is all based on ideas; for sure and this streamlined has plenty but also rely on Nitro; with a bike with 2 valves (4) without fairing and nitro you cannot do too much; all was done.
I am not a fan of these rockets but still this one is ok but most are not motorcycles; are just a rocket with 2 wheels.
25 3,716 Read More
The Competition Forum
10 hours ago new T140E has the external oil line that came from the external oil filter and the valve just cut at 70psi
I do not know too much more due to I did not made the adaptation but enter to the timing cover at the bottom.

--why both bearings CN? Is not safer to put at least one C3?

12 677 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
10 hours ago
On my new to me 1963 A65 the brake rod is on the right side, it runs through the swingarm spindle and back to the wheel. TI am looking for some pictures that show the swingarm pivot end routing if that makes any sense.
0 19 Read More
The Competition Forum
10 hours ago
...did you do something to keep the oil inside? I mean; for example putting the ball bearings under the studs?
I have in two bikes a leak under the head and possibly is from a stud.

--there s a guy with some clips in ytube that has a Trident replica of the 70s Triumph racers done by R North. He was riding in the Isle of man with the camera in front of the clocks and into the town at some point he s riding at 154MPH!
8 339 Read More
Three State Mountain Ride Forum
12 hours ago
Mine's almost ready!
4 543 Read More
Yesterday at 11:46 PM
If Lannis is still laughing,............... One thing you can use is the valve cover studs. The smaller 1/4" studs were the pre-1970. I believe its after 1970 they got bigger, and the head steady bolted to the top of the valve cover, not the lug between the exhaust ports. Most ant numbers won't show that anyway.......... ;~)
If it has the small cover studs, it will fit all the earlier years. I've never had a later head to look at, but likely would fit later also. What year bike/motor are you working on?
3 82 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 11:08 PM
It funny as much as love the Harley. I really love the triumph as much. Just something about old English bikes I've always liked. Easy , simple , light. Plus the look of it and if course the sound.
5 329 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
Yesterday at 11:03 PM
4 345 Read More
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