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Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
BSA Bulletin Board
14 minutes ago
Just to be clear I mean the OD of the top bush, for clearances, pulling numbers out of thin air ( looked in the manuals , NADA), i would be happy with 3 thou min , 5 thou max for Bush ID to stanchion OD. If you have dented sliders they will be pinching the bottom stanchion bush, you may be able to drive the dents back out with a suitably sized mandrel ( ie sized at the bottom stanchion bush OD, with the top bush removed for access)), put a lead in taper to the business end of the mandrel and heat the fork slider to red as the mandrel is driven into the dent area ( you will need to repaint after), If the mandrel is drilled through or tapped for some threaded rod it should extract OK. There may be better less brutal methods , but this would help. You need some method of mandrel extraction, it may knock back out from the lower centre hole if it has one( not sure about early forks , later certainly have this.) Alternatively some sort of pipe expander tool may be useful if you can get in place and operate it.
if you have access to a lathe the mandrel should be easy to knock up.
Ive seen dents taken out of exhaust pipes by welding a screwed rod to the centre of the dent then heat and slide hammer till dent be gone, cut off and grind to finish.
20 862 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
22 minutes ago
0 5 Read More
Members Bike Projects
30 minutes ago
…the intermediate timing wheel bush was replaced and bored to size.

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219 180,092 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
31 minutes ago
It's not on a taper, use a thin legged puller but the worm teeth are thin and brittle at the sides.
1 13 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
38 minutes ago
ok, just split the cases. the rod bearing feels fine so hopefgully a major trgedy has been adverted.

i see now that the oil drains back thru the crankcase in addition to draining from the right side cover.
9 164 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The Private Buy-Sell BOARD
53 minutes ago
Daron---a good price and it looks very original to me based on what you can make out from the photo.
Interesting what Les says--my 73 was on a farm in New Hampshire until about a year before I bought it (so about 1973-2011).
Enjoy the bike!
40 1,482 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
1 hour ago
From Thursday Jan 11th- I took the gas tank down to the car wash and sprayed it out thoroughly, let it dry in the sun, then pounded on it with the palm of my hand to knock the last few flakes of crud off, then snaked a thin vacuum cleaner nozzle around the bottom and sucked out the remnants. Finally, dumped the old oil & filter, cleaned the sump pan, flushed the tranny, then refilled everything including the rear gear and driveshaft tunnel.

From yesterday 1/15 - Still waiting on the new battery, but the weather is supposed to get colder again tomorrow, so I popped the new petcocks on the bike, installed my backup battery, jump-started the bike and warmed it up, then made sure it would re-fire on the kicker, and off I went for a quick spin around the neighborhood.

The bike is quite cold-blooded, took 3 or 4 minutes on the choke till it would even nominally respond to the throttle positively.

Yep, it's an old boxer alright, pogo-sticking on and off throttle. FUN!

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36 897 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
Engine as if in frame is up right, install sleeve gear and gearbox sprocket, present inner timing and insert main shaft into sleeve gear and then move cover in engaging layshaft, camshaft and lastly dowels.
6 141 Read More
Ariel Forum
1 hour ago
Hi MM,
I must have misread or not "taken in" the route the the oil takes from the flywheel groove to the big end
I thought that the oilway through the flywheel lined up with the oilway into the crankpin (mid taper) as on later Ariel's & BSA's
and from there to the two holes that feed the rollers (provided the crankpin end plugs are fitted)

John
539 45,538 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
2 hours ago
Nick, a BICYCLE can go fast enough to "get you killed," so what's your point?

And, yes, the problem here in the 'states was often a NEGLECT of maintenance.
As BSAs were less expensive here than Triumphs, cheapskates tended to buy BSAs, rode them HARD
(i.e.: ABUSED them) and didn't bother to change oil on schedule, or not at all.

Dirty oil wore out the timing side crank bush, which also feeds oil to the crank, and not enough lubrication entered the crank. Result of this is failure of the left-side con rod.

Personally, I have ridden A65s and B44s, and like them. The A65 frames were further development of the Gold Star frames, and handle very well. The B44 is very sure-footed on dirt and gravel roads, they do not "hunt" on gravel roads like my Triumphs do, which is an irritating characteristic of my '72 T100R.
29 4,740 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
2 hours ago
Originally Posted by bodine031
Gunn Engine Works 512-534-5326 12400 W.Hwy.71 Suite 350-112 Austin TX. The Tri-Cor guy who wrote the books www.gunnengineworks.com

HA! Different from the Charlie & Pat I know in south Austin who have and race several Britbikes...
11 243 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
2 hours ago
Inspection of three 1968-1972 (T100R Daytona for 1972) show the spokes do have gaps on the RIGHT side but are hard against each other where they cross on the LEFT side, so I am 50 percent correct, anyway.

Al's Speed Shop in North Aurora, Illinois, made spoked wheels for 200 MPH dragsters, was a major builder and supplier of these wheels. The late Herb Lancaster built hundreds of them. I used to watch him build them. It was his technique to use the rubber hammer to 'seat' the spokes. when they were first tensioned. THEN, he would finish truing the wheel.

I never heard any complaints about the performance of his wheels from racers who exceeded 200 MPH. That's why
I had him build all the wheels for my motorcycles.
11 269 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
Originally Posted by Mike Austin
Originally Posted by Buckshot1
Hey Mike,
Nice job cleaning up the boss. Spot-facing tool? At any rate it appears a machinist did that. Great ppics. Could you email those to me?


Hi Michael,
Not a problem, I will get the photos to you. No spot facing tool just a large fine flat file and about 2 hours of trying to sneak up on a parallel surface followed with lapping with a flt block and 400 grit paper, then fine Scotch-Brite. I will send you an Email tomorrow. A great fixture by the way, I really enjoyed using it.

: Mike

I've been thinking about making up a spot-facing tool, but that may be a bit tough to use with a hand drill.
5 132 Read More
HOT LINKS Forum
3 hours ago
No problem yuko, thanks for posting anyway.
I nearly got snagged on a similar "deal" for a Clymer Enfield some years ago, also a Velo Thruxton on CL in Arkansas... that was quite a while back, so, seems as if the same folks are up to the same tricks...?

By the way, some people I knew went up to the Yukon to settle... we had a bet on who would come back first to the warm weather. The guy we thought would come back soonest ended up staying the longest, ie several years. That was before global warming though! (heh heh)
18 604 Read More
Royal Enfield Forum
3 hours ago
Originally Posted by colin d charles
Mine has the cutout at the top of the rear engine plates, but can't tell where the mounting strap would connect.


At least on the 4-stroke singles, the mounting strap is a continuous strap of metal that hooks under two of the crankcase studs under the mounting area.

.. gREgg
14 226 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The Private Buy-Sell BOARD
3 hours ago
Sorry, I had a look and do not have any good originals in that size.
John
3 57 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
3 hours ago
Something sounds fishy here!! Gunn Engine Works 512-534-5326 Austin TX. Tommy Gunn was a Tri-Cor service guy after spending time with John Healy
Jaye Strait Britec 508-764-8624
8 236 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
4 hours ago
Hello,

I am looking for a dip switch for my 1953 T100, i tried ace classics but they dont have them
Does anyone know where i could get one?

Best regards,
Michel
0 14 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
5 hours ago
One more question ... the plastic seals (83-3014) on the ends of the swing arm pivots have a gap or relief in the outer rim, I'm guessing the seal should be installed with the gap pointing down, to allow excess grease to exit if you pump in too much via the grease fitting, or allow water to drain out if any got in ... does that sound right?

Thanks,
3 64 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
5 hours ago
I am at work..... grin
18 265 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
5 hours ago
thanks fr the info. it has the original rotor. kyle at british bikes told me they are sometimes extremely snug fitting and require a puller and sometimes they easily pull off by hand. i was able to pry it off with moderate force.
6 118 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The Private Buy-Sell BOARD
5 hours ago
For Sale is a Triumph T120 TR6 crankshaft timing pinion gear, part # E4564/70-4564. It is in good useable condition with no broken or chipped teeth.Check your parts book to be sure this fits your model, but part should fit most 1960s Unit 650s. Price is $10 plus shipping at cost from Canada. Paypal accepted. Send me a PM or email with your postal code and I'll let you know cost. Thanks.
John
jbakker21@hotmail.com
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0 13 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The Private Buy-Sell BOARD
5 hours ago
For Sale is a used Triumph T120 TR6 Gear Selector Camplate, part # T3650/ 57-3650. Please ignore other part #s that show up on background in photos. It is in good useable condition with no broken or chipped teeth. It does show some normal wear, but is quite usable as is. See photos for details. Check your parts book to be sure this fits your model, but part should fit most 1960s Unit 650s. Price is $20 plus shipping at cost from Canada. For shipping cost, send me a PM or email with your postal code and I will let you know cost. Paypal accepted. Lots of other T120 gearbox used parts available. Let me know what you need. Thanks.
John
jbakker21@hotmail.com
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GARAGE SALE- The Private Buy-Sell BOARD
5 hours ago
For Sale is a used Triumph T120 TR6 Mainshaft Top Gear(4th), 26T, with bushings, part # 57-3891. This part # is stamped on the part (see photo). It is in good useable condition with no broken or chipped teeth.Check your parts book to be sure this fits your model, but part should fit most 1960s Unit 650s. Price is $20.
Also available are the used T120 TR6 gearbox sprocket nut (T440) along with its tab washer. Both items are used but with good threads and in good useable condition. One photo shows the parts on their top gear shaft. The nut does have some marks on it from removals over the years. Price for both items is $5.
Shipping is at cost from Canada. Paypal accepted. For shipping cost, send me a PM or email with your postal code and I will let you know cost. Thanks.
John
jbakker21@hotmail.com
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GARAGE SALE- The Private Buy-Sell BOARD
5 hours ago
For Sale is a top triple clamp (fork yoke) , stamped with # 29-5316. My research indicates this to be a BSA C10/C11 part. Price is $10 plus shipping at cost from Canada. Send me a PM or email with your postal code and I will let you know about shipping cost. Paypal accepted. Thanks.
John
jbakker21@hotmail.com
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