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Bsa bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: The what if A65 67hp challenge. Mark Parker 22 minutes ago
This is the graph of the 883. The operator went to some pains to explain it's a ramp type dyno not inertia, he could adjust it to take longer to spin up the drum. It held the bike at a predetermined speed until the run was initiated when it hit the maximum speed or rpm we selected it again held it to that rpm. Except the first run, which indicated 85.4 on the screen with an inaccurate rpm count, so we ended up using speed rather than rpm to control rpm.

The graph is in KW frown even though hp was what was on the screen while we were doing it. 61.4kw is 82.3rwhp which realistically converts to 93.3hp at the crank, 50kw is 67rwhp-76hp @ crank. 40kw is 53rwhp -60hp. If I didn't have to pay to fix it if something broke I'd take it back in and try it with the correct mixture, the new freer flowing mufflers and maybe the extra 1000rpm the operator wanted to run it to. Why I envy the guys developing stuff at Umberslades where they were being paid to test engines and chase the best settings and find exactly what a configuration would deliver, without having to walk home if it all went wrong.

[Linked Image from]
141 4,961 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: Photos from Euro Bike Ride In bodine031 39 minutes ago
Great pixs thank you! I have a R-3 story for you. I moved to Hernando County Fl. in June of 1980. The Brit Bike Gods took over. The 1st fellow I met was Jim Crompton,
when BSA went out he sold off his inventory from his dealership House Of Beeza in Lockport N.Y. He moved to Istachatta Fl. and opened a general repair shop. He did bring his 1970 R-3 EC03182 vin with him. He took it out of the crate for himself from an order from April 1970. He received 7 R-3's., 4 A65T's , 1 A-50R & 4 B-25S's
His cost for the R-3's was $$1112.00 ea.!! Jim passed 11yrs.ago at the age of 64. His R-3 is safe in the hands of his 42 yr. old daughter Gina a very good rider herself.
Jim was a very fast 1/4 miler back in the day on a lay down R-3 dragbike. He was a regular at Niagara Raceway and Atco in Jersey. His hotrod R-3 bike ran high 9's.
Thanks again for the pixs Geoff.
6 237 Read More
Bsa bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: RGS vs Super Rocket Irish Swede 47 minutes ago
Ken, your message was NOT "printed all in caps."

Has your left hand gotten better?
1 46 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Bonnie T140 RGM 51 minutes ago
My bonnie has had an issue with smoking on occasion, worse on left side.
I was fitting a new throttle cable yesterday and did so with it on sidestand, it sat on the sidestand overnight too.
I unscrewed the top off each carb and noticed the piston of the left one is dirtier than the right one. I then put my finfer down the barrel and it had oil in it, enough to wipe on my finger.
Upon starting it smoked clouds out the left side and a little out the right..(no link pipe on exhausts).
Valve guide leak occurs to me, any other ways oil could get into the bores/intakes when at rest and it smokes running?
0 7 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: T140 Left Hand side engine (?) noise DaveG 57 minutes ago
Hi Don, I got the photos thanks I will use them tomorrow when I finish the installation of the kickstart. Today I am pretty sure I got all 4 gears and neutral in the gearbox, I aligned everything with 1st gear (John Healy), although the cam plate was initially positioned in neutral (between first and second) in this way as the leaf spring pushed on the cam it selected 1st. About 5 mm out I moved the pawl up a touch and hoped to get it just on the cam plate cog, second time lucky!

Tomorrow hopefully I will finish and be able to test if my noise has gone! Or maybe I need to change the clutch as suggested above!
28 1,410 Read More
British motorcycles in general Jump to new posts
Re: Broken stud extractor edunham 1 hour ago
I had a similar issue with a stripped hole. The drill bits and helicoil tools were not long enough to reach without major disassembly. I paid a machinist friend to make me extensions. They worked like a charm.
I would not use extractors. My experience is that they are brittle and break too easily. If they break, you need to have them burned out with an electro-discharge machine. I would use progressively larger titanium drill bits with a guide. If you get through the steel stud and the threads in the aluminum are no good, requiring a helicoil or the equivalent, put down the power drill and use drill bits marked for depth in a t-handle with a collar or some other guide. With care it can be pretty accurate.

Ed From NJ
4 110 Read More
Garage sale - The private buy & sell board Jump to new posts
Re: Chrome BSA Teardrop Tank gREgg-K 1 hour ago
Good thing you claimed the tank, Nick. I was tempted to buy it and build a bike around it!
.. Gregg
13 1,691 Read More
Bsa gold star forum Jump to new posts
GOLDIE MUFFLER rocketgoldie 1 hour ago
Hi for sale a Autocycle silencer in EX COND EXCHROME NO BENTS USE BUT EXCOND .offers.
0 13 Read More
Members bike projects Jump to new posts
Re: Enclosed Motorcycle Trailer: Design & Build edunham 1 hour ago
Apropos of this thread, I was in Barnes & Noble yesterday buying a motorcycle magazine and there was a trailer magazine with a cover story about trailers for bikes and going to the races. Of course the road test was a 30' long behemoth that cost $80,000. Just think, you could buy one of those and be all set to go!

Ed from NJ
41 945 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: what music are you listening to now? Hugh Jorgen 1 hour ago
855 179,713 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: BSA International wadeschields 1 hour ago
[Linked Image from]

[Linked Image from]

[Linked Image from]
36 2,070 Read More
The triple forum Jump to new posts
Re: T160 Right Hand Gearchange DMadigan 1 hour ago
You could leave the cross shaft in place to plug the internal holes. Remove the cross shaft link and change the gearshift fork on the gearbox quadrant to the earlier T150. Make a new cover for it to go through. On the primary remove the gearshift spindle and then plug the hole.
If you go with rear sets the rear master and pedal mounting is probably easier.
5 152 Read More
Vincent forum Jump to new posts
Re: Broken stud extractor David Dunfey 2 hours ago

I have not had this problem. I assume it is the short stud that holds the top of the mag cowl on the drive side ET109/13. Glenn Bewley visited recently and he mentioned that he had one of these to fix. He might develop an idea of how to do it in situ. It occurs to me that you could keep going with the sleeve and the drill and with the sleeve, you have a good chance of drilling out the minor diameter of the thread that is stuck. It may come loose once it is breached and the remnants could turn out or be blown out. Then you could run a tap in to clean it out. It is some work, but as you say, it may be worth it to avoid a tear down.

1 32 Read More
Bsa bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Restoring (to a point) my '68 BSA Spitfire Mk4 BSA_WM20 3 hours ago
Originally Posted by Allan Gill
Like Nick says, it’s down to how you hit the end, if you don’t give it some conviction then it won’t budge at all. One good blow is what’s needed and not many lighter blows which would do more damage. Heat and penetrating oil then whack. If it needs more than one whack. Recheck and tighten the tool each time.

If you were going to change all those clutch parts (or at least the centre) I’d consider welding on your puller to the clutch centre. The heat will be so much more than a blow lamp would give out. You would also have the tool permanently fixed onto the centre.

I’d check the sludge trap regardless, I would also fit new big end shells. You might even see a poor regrind job on the journals which means you want to change the crank, in a way of preventing catastrophe later on.

Just to muddy the waters.
I have found that tightening the puller with an air impact hammer usually pops most clutches off the taper.
Failing that I use an air hammer, usually with a pry bar behind the clutch to prevent hammering the bearings
20,000 light blows a minute works wonders.
190 12,610 Read More
Garage sale - The private buy & sell board Jump to new posts
Re: Early Norton Commando - Atlas Triple Trees FS Paul Sammut 3 hours ago
Hi Jon,
if the triple trees are straight, I'm willing to buy them. What would the shipping cost be to send to zip 68124, please?
Kind regards,
1 151 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Rebuilding Post 1977 rear brake master cylinder L.A.B. 6 hours ago
Originally Posted by reverb
do you know why the factory changed the place?

Probably to reduce the amount of road dirt and water getting thrown at the caliper and it's also easier to check the condition and change the brake pads.
17 314 Read More
Britbike faq forum Jump to new posts
Re: search impossible Psychopasta 6 hours ago
Or when you read the help. Or ask. beerchug
7 101 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: New Battery dave jones 8 hours ago
Thanks to Dave and Mark.

Dave- I usually try and keep the battery topped up if the bike is out of use so should be ok on that front.

Mark- from what I have read in this thread there is truth in what you said because the Zeners can vary in voltage output as you say whilst the modern regulators are more accurate.

I will test my charging but am thinking that the bad battery might spoil the reading. What do you think?
15 300 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: TRW engine triton thrasher 10 hours ago
You won’t hurt anything because the case only has to be heated until spit sizzles on it.
1 54 Read More
Garage sale - The private buy & sell board Jump to new posts
Re: FS: A65 Bare Head DMadigan 10 hours ago
KC, is that a 5/16" valve cover head (OIF)? If so and no other offers I would like to pick it up.
3 281 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Sputtering 71' 650 Tiger TR7RVMan 11 hours ago
Hi Juan, The harder starting hot is normal with California fuel. I know you have the proper fat o-ring insulator between carb & manifold. That is important, but still it doesn't cure this problem. (the phenolic insulator block won't help more, trust me).

The solution to the hot start like you experience is two things. First don't use any throttle at all during first 10 min until bike fires, then add throttle & blip throttle to keep it reving until carb cools & it will idle normal. About 2 min or more depending on temperature.

The next thing sounds wrong & crazy.... But it's the only way that actually works. Tickle carb like when cold. No choke. Bring to compression. Turn on key. Hold almost full throttle (about 90-95% full). Kick very hard. Be ready to back off throttle as motor will race quickly. Again blip throttle until it will idle reliably, about 2 min. Don't do primer kick when hot like you might when cold.

If still no good, kick with zero throttle.

There is a bit of a knack to this, but once you get it, bike will start 99.9% of the time hot on first kick. All the guys I ride with do this & it works for everybody.

On a side note, many riders find they can kick harder & turn motor faster if they clock kicker lever to near horizontal. Do this by first freeing clutch. Then bring to compression. Raise lever, pull clutch, push lever part way down to near horizontal. Hold it there. Release clutch still holding lever there. Don't raise lever, keep it there. Now kick hard. This really works well. Many of us do this. Takes some practice, but soon is second nature. Even small light riders like me can reliably start bike like this.

I would most strongly recommend you don't move needle clip until you evaluate mixture by road testing with the tuning guide in your pocket. Mark your grip in 1/8s like a ruler with long & short lines using masking tape on grip & chrome part of throttle so you can see at a glance exactly how much throttle you are using at the moment. This marking is most critical & important. You cannot guess on this. You must mark.

Study tuning guide. Print it all or at least the parts about tuning. It takes some time to digest all that's going on with carb. Generally takes several road tests. Your road tests are way too short to get any reliable tests on running or reading plugs. You need to go a minimum of 20 miles just to fully warm engine. More if cold day. It must be fully heat soaked to evaluate mixture in all the riding conditions.

Ride & read guide. Ride & read guide. Repeat as needed until you memorize most of it & get a feel for what parts of carb does what. Then if you want move the clip. Then you'll not be guessing, but actually understanding why & what you need to do.

Here's the guide done by John Healy. The link doesn't look right, but it is indeed the correct link to guide.

14 559 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: 1978 Bonneville parts reverb 11 hours ago
I cannot send you a message due to the limit in my box, but I would like to buy the rear brake stuff in working order and the timing cover at a fair price.
1 62 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: A bit of sad news KC in S.B. 12 hours ago
Never met the Man,or had any contact,........ But still know how the loss feels. The sad reality hits home one more time when one more fellow like this man is gone. We as a group of enthusiasts all appreciate those that came before, mentored, and helped where they could. getting to be few and far between, the roots of the sport.
2 153 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: Fave timing light? Hugh Jorgen 13 hours ago
Thanks gents.
5 157 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: T140 head stud leaking TR7RVMan 14 hours ago
Hi Devon Dave, Sorry, the MB sealant # is actually 001 989 89 20 10. It must be gotten from Mercedes dealer. They usually have to order it. It really works good though.

Regarding .080" copper gaskets, they work quite well. They seal well & last well. I've had one in my bike for 20k miles now. I've been involved in installing 3 of these now. It will lower compression about 20#. It of course modifies the squish band, but in real life greatly reduces pinging. 7.4 pistons are a really good thing for T140s with my fuel.

As you say, retorque & evaluate is the first step. Might just do the trick...

Regarding PRT lower square seal crush, it can be as low as .013-.015" & still work perfectly. The important factor is having smooth bore in head & smooth/debur outer surface of tappet block where PRT round o-ring slides over. Also no spit/peeling chrome inside PRT or outside at top of PRT. A thin smear of silicon on round rings I always do also.

Tappet block O-rings are prone to leak also. Again deburr, smooth bore in cyl. & groove on tappet block. I don't use sealant here, but I use a thin smear of grease on ring, bore & outer surface of tappet block. Grease helps ease driving block in also. Always use Viton round O-rings on blocks & tubes. The bottom square is silicon of course.
9 268 Read More
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