doesn't conventional wisdom have it that the next model year started in August of the preceding year ?
If "conventional wisdom" = old wives' tale, yes; doesn't have anything to do with reality.
Originally Posted by Shemozzle
then a KG prefix would indicate a September 1971 build of a 1972 model year machine.
Not with a number as 'high' (in BSA/Triumph's sense of the word) as David's bike's; as I say, it's easy to tell September 1971-built KG's (and JG's and NG's) from September 1972-built KG's (and JG's and NG's) by the number.
Originally Posted by Shemozzle
Surely by Setember 1972 Triumph would have had the 1973 model year machines rolling down the production line ?
That's the odd thing, they did have if it was a Hurricane, just not a T150 ...
Originally Posted by Shemozzle
If this is not the case then is the suggestion that '72 model year machines were continuing to be made in Sept '72 ?
Originally Posted by Shemozzle
Roy Allen has said that the late '72 machines were being built in tandem with both the '73 model year machines as well as the Hurricane.
Please give Roy my regards when you speak to him next?
That's the odd thing aiui:-
. September 1972 through to January 1973, Small Heath built batches of T150 engines interspersed with batches of Hurricane engines (before the Meriden sit-in, Small Heath built all triple engines, Triumphs were then trucked over to Meriden to be assembled into cycle parts and dispatched);
. September and October 1972, T150 engines were date-coded as '72 (G year letter) and numbered in the '72 sequence, Hurricane engines were date-coded as '73 (H year letter) and numbered in a new sequence;
. December 1972 and certainly January 1973, T150 engines were date-coded as '73 (H year letter) and numbered in the same sequence as Hurricanes (aiui that's why the highest Hurricane engine number is in the 02xxx range but less than 1200 actual Hurricanes were built); these 'early' '73 T150 are "Series 1" and look like '72 - small rear lamp, conical front brake, etc.; it's only some time after Hurricane production ended that Meriden started making '73 "Series 2" T150's - large rear lamp, disc front brake, etc.
Originally Posted by tridentt150v
Probably still had some wire guards to get rid of or some such.
Nah, they fitted 'em to Hurricanes ...
Originally Posted by DavidP
Maybe they had a backlog of '72 machines with all the labor troubles,
Thanks everyone for your advice. Castrol Classic still do XL and XXL so that's no problem. I can get hold of Penrite semi fluid grease for the gearbox too.
Thanks L.A.B. for the links to oil / grease!
Never used semi fluid grease before - might sound like a stupid question but do I need to get the old stuff out before adding new or do I just add in new stuff? I think the manual says charge the box with 1lb of grease and periodically add another 1/2lb. I need to double check those figures but it was something like that. Do I just use a grease gun to get it in there? Would I apply some form of none direct heat to liquify and remove the old stuff?
Rohan, yes, that picture is of my bike (or will be later this week).
Can't wait to get it and yes, one of first jobs is to chck the advance/retard lever. When the dealer started the bike we discussed the position of the lever and someone has etched 'A' and 'R' into the chrome. Interestingly the dealer thought it ran better with the lever 'apparently' in the fully retarded position and he said it's possible the lever is operating reverse to how it's been marked. I'll look into it. Thanks again all, your knowledge is much appreciated.
I have read that the oil flow from the tank to the engine can be improved by enlaging the feed line fron 5/16 to 3/8 inch. The T160 had this setup from new, I am not sure if older engines will benefit much from this modification so, opinions please.
I also would like to know how to proceed when performing this mod. How are the inlet stubs fixed in the engine casing ? are they threaded or shrunk in ? The oil inlet in the casing to the pump must be enlarged as well I suppose.
Any opinion on the necessity of this mod, and/or do's and dont's will be welcome. Thanks
No harm in overthing things, my projects take me longer and longer these day because I over thing everything, For the hose conunderam just use the 5/16 hose, soften it with a heat gun or mug of boiling water and it'll go on fine over the larger fittings on the oil filter housing.
If you really did want to fit the elbows, I'd cut the original spiggots off and drill/thead them to take an adaptor for your spigots.
Im looking at your photos on a bigger screen now and can see your fittings better, they look like they are the type which would have an olive and form a seal on the pipe type?
I hadn't thought of that, not yet anyway. The forks work perfectly and I haven't even changed the ancient oil. I didn't want to rock the boat. Maybe modern ATF Type F (per the manual) will suddenly cause a leak. For now they seem fine. But yeah, as I work through the various systems I will address this area.
I leave both forks attached to the yokes, and clamp the top yoke in my heavy vice (with soft alloy jaw protectors).
Grab a leg and slide it in 3-4 inches, then smack it out like a slide hammer. You're going to replace the bushings anyway.
Yep, I did it a little different but on the same principle. I blocked up the slider in my vice between two blocks of soft wood. I sanded the rough spots off the fork leg down with emery cloth until it was sliding better and not sticking at the end of the stroke. I attached the top yoke so I would have something to grab on to. It took about 10 good hard slamming hits and it was out. I didn't try the second one. I need some more emery cloth but I will get some tomorrow.
Hi, Generic can work or not, depending on your needs... Top, banjo, slides, jets. you can reuse some of your old parts if still good. If you need to purchase new slide, top, banjos, jets, the effective cost goes way up. Seen this many times.
Have any seller, including Amal verify exactly what carb will come with. Phil at Amal set me up with exactly what I wanted at no extra cost. With shipping was best price I could find too. He emailed me paypal. I payed. Came in 1.5weeks.
I've been finding the pilot jet on premiers is better to use 019 rather than 017, Phil did that for me on my TR7RV carb. That will usually put mixture screw at 1.5 turns. I'm experiencing this situation, right now with generic carbs that came with 017. . Mixture is correct at 3/4 turn. That makes bike run not quite right. I feel it's due to low air volume in the pilot circuit. The mixture screw turned in to get mixture correct. This reduces air volume through pilot circuit. Then you raise slide slightly to get the added air. Now the ratio of slide air & pilot air is skewed. Even though idle mixture & rpm is correct. The key factor is when idle mixture is correct mixture screw will be close to the nominal 1.5 turns out. That's how you know if your good or not.
Also, this is very important. The float level is very different. It must be just above bowl gasket surface & level with it. It should come that way. You lower it & it won't work right. Trust me on this. I posted Amal instruction sheet on this on RAT site. I can't post photos here. Don
Got 3 kits, a racing one which is still awaiting its engine, one that’s covered a hard life on my lightning and it keeps working flawlessly (7000 miles I think) that’s on a 68, no mods needed at all on that. And just fitting another one to the 71 A65 I’m building. As ian says the late castings are much beefier and you will need to remove some aluminium for the front pulley to clear but this isn’t a lot and doesn’t effect the structure of the alternator casting.
It’s a dry clutch so don’t use any oil, you’ll find it much lighter than the standard clutch despite having 6 springs and clutch slip will be a thing of the past.
Re KoncreteKid's post ....... I actually wired a 21" rim onto a 6" conical single lever hub, and to be fair the braking isn't that bad, it is just a matter of setting up the shoes etc. properly, and as most of my riding is what you mainlanders would describe as trail riding (actually our main "roads"), it is more than enough.
I choose not to paint the hubs as I like shinny bits so I polished the hub and brake plate, it is what I like, and your decision should be based on what you like.
I have tried to make what ever changes I have done from original to be reversible, so I am not too sure drilling gert 'oles in yer 'ubs is entirely sympathetic to the history of these machines!
OK im a bit surprised that my inquiry re location drew so many comments ( a good thing)
The reason i originally asked was that 2 weeks or so back my A65 decided it would demonstrate its displeasure about not getting any robust use. .. I stopped to get gas and there was A LOT of oil under it ....a lot DANG! ....wasnt far from, home so i got back and had to add something like 1 liter to the tank . It seemed to be mainly on the drive side.
Any way after much head scratching about likely causes i concluded that the scavenge ball had some how got stuck down an wasnt picking up ( a bit of sticky *rap dislodged by getting it going robustly i guess)
Anyway topped the lost oil up ....ridden it twice since then and its fine....just one of those things....it is normally pretty arid
AND NO it had not wet stumped whilst sitting (no smoke on start up) it hadnt stat that long anyway
IT is NOT blow by or it would not have self resolved
IT is not oil pump as pressure and return are fine now (i have a gauge fitted)
I refilled it to the EXACT mark on the dip stick and it has stayed there