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Norton bulletin board Jump to new posts
Need new ei for a mk3 Richrd 29 minutes ago
I'm done with tri sparks. So I need to find something else. Can't be voltage sensitive like a standard boyer. I'm thinking about a boyer micro digital.

What has proven to work in the electric start mk3?
0 5 Read More
Bsa gold star forum Jump to new posts
Re: DBD Lower fork Clamp Kerry W 51 minutes ago
I could be wrong, but I've always thought the drilling and tapping for lock stops was the only/major difference.
1 20 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Special tools TR7RVMan 58 minutes ago
Hi Splash. Look at Lunmad videos on youtube & find the one where he goes over strobe timing.

Make no mistake, the points on these bikes are puzzling & time consuming to work on. If you have points, it's a matter of learning about them. They work good & are very reliable, but they must be maintained. You must learn about static timing as often when you remove points plate timing will be too far off to get bike started. An ohm meter is very handy to have for setting static timing. Even a very cheap one will work fine for static timing. Do you have an ohm meter?

Do you have a timing light?

For your first time plan on spending all day. If you find problems, can take much longer.

After setting static timing, strobe timing is strongly recommended as it sets timing in real time with motor running. Strobe timing is using a timing light to read timing mark on rotor under the large round cover on primary cover. The strobe light must be powered by an outside source, NOT the motor cycle battery!! Some timing lights have their own internal batteries, many have a long lead with alligator clips you hook to a battery. If you don't have spare battery, park you car close by & hook timing light to car battery, or another motorcycle battery, just not the battery on the Tiger. The electrical system on your Tiger can false trigger the timing light so your setting will not be correct. ALWAYS put a large fan, at least the largest you have in front of bike to cool motor. Put some cardboard or the like on floor as a lot of oil flies out as you rev motor. This is normal on your year bike.

If bike has center stand, place a rubber mat under stand to keep it from walking back as you rev motor. An old mud flap works perfect.

When you set strobe timing on your year bike you move sub plates as you did during static timing.

Checking for cam runout or wobble is kind of a crap shoot. First off, with AAA (auto advance unit) removed inspect the taper in exhaust cam AAU goes into for burrs or damage that might keep AAU taper from seating smoothly. Check AAU for burrs especially where the notch is that aligns with peg in exhaust cam. Upon installation hold AAU evenly/straightly feeling it fit well into the taper. It should not want to rock or wobble. While holding install bolt & tighten it. When all this is done it just wants to go on straight.

To check for runout look at rubbing block of points when on the cam, points open. Does the rubbing block set flat on cam or is there a gap at one end? A gap is a clue. Using feeler gauge & tuning motor measuring point gap as manual says I've never been able to get to make sense. The point gap most often will change as you rotate motor as the rubbing block is on high part of cam. The ones I've seen wobbling had a huge point gap change like .008+". I've noticed on these the rubbing block was not flat on cam. In each case the AAU had burrs on the end. Usually near the notch for the exhaust cam peg. Filing off burrs has corrected in 100% of time. I've never used a drift like manual says. I've only seen about 3 wobbling, including my own from new....

That being said I've seen bikes run many thousands of miles with wobbling cam & you'd never know it. So don't stress too much about it.

Regarding sluggish running low rpm, that's hard to say. Timing must be correct as a prerequisite. I find on modern fuel the bike seems to run better at 36b instead of spec of 38b. 36 will be with line on rotor about 3/64" to rear of pointer on your year. But if you prefer use factory spec of 38b until you get more experience with bike.

After timing is correct AND valve adjustment is correct you can begin carb tuning. That is a whole other subject. Get timing & valve adjustment correct first.

When you do strobe timing you want to rev motor at lease 3000 rpm. You'll see the timing mark move with RPM & then stop when AAU is full advanced. Spec is full advance at 2000, but you want to rev higher than 2000 during checking.

Timing full advance in original AAU has proven not best for modern fuel. It was made for 100 octane leaded gas. Modern electronic ignition has a very different timing curve where full advance doesn't happen until about 3500 rpm. Timing is checked at above 4000 rpm on these. That is how Boyer is & that is why these bikes tend to ping much less with Boyer or other electronic ignitions. You can rework the old AAU to replicate the 3500 rpm. But that is another subject you can address later.

The advantage of points is bike will start & run with dead battery. The advantage of electronic ignition is set it up & strobe time, then forget it. Also has better advance curve for modern fuel.

Exactly what fuel are you using? You must use highest octane you can get even if it has ethanol. What is your best fuel? Don't worry about ethanol, it's not really that much of a problem. What you need is highest octane. I find top tier name brand fuels such as shell & chevron tend to work best, give better starting even. Also they keep combustion chamber cleaner than lesser brands.

You must not lug the motor ever. Not even for a moment. The motor should always be spinning freely such if you give throttle it will accelerate well. For example unless you are trending downhill 45-50 mph you'll be in 3rd. If trending up hill you certainly should be in 3rd. If you hear ping at all, even a slight trace of ping down shift & spin motor faster. With practice you'll soon anticipate when ping will happen & know when to down shift. The motor is already pinging before you hear it. The penalty is a holed or broken piston. I've seen many here in California heat with 91 octane our best fuel. Spinning motor freely even though more rpm per mile does less ring/cyl wear than lugging motor. The real cure is 7.1 unleaded pistons, but that's another subject.

At the same time if mixture is biased rich motor will run cooler & ping less.

My feeling is if you get valves, timing, mixture set best it can & keep rpm you can ride bike fine for a long time. When it's time for pistons, I'd use LF Harris 7.1 unleaded. Just makes a wonderful riding bike. You'll not notice power loss.
Don
12 249 Read More
Norton bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Rear wheel speedo drive ring PFribley 59 minutes ago
Thanks.L.A.B.The spacer on my bike does have some in and out movement. My Speedo box rubs near the bottom of the alloy hub cover. It generates enough heat on a long ride to liquify the grease in the speedo box and slings all over the wheel. Have been trying to elimate possible problems. Inspection today revealed that somehow TPO bulged the center section of the Speedo box out. It is not completely flat. So as I tighten the axel the extra thickness causes the drive box to rub. The reason I found this out is I purchased a bunch of junk boxes off evilbay. Hoping to make on good one out of the bunch. Comparing the junk ones to the one off my bike instantly showed the bulge. Any recommendations on new boxes. Is the Andover Norton one any better than the emgo one???
13 215 Read More
British motorcycles in general Jump to new posts
Re: Pos or Neg Ground ? DMadigan 1 hour ago
Do you mean a double spade connector on one terminal and a single on the other? If not, what do each of the terminals connect to?
Red wire to ground COULD be positive ground. If you use the Tympanium it is which ever way you wire it, red or black to ground. Nothing else on the bike is polarity sensitive. The coil will work wired "backward" (primary and secondary common to points or battery), it just does not work as well.
If it has electrical tape they probably just twisted the wires together which will be a problem at some point. Take it a[art and solder the connections and put heat shrink tube around them.
17 253 Read More
Bsa gold star forum Jump to new posts
Re: Gear box speedo screw JakeH 1 hour ago
Jerry, I install a seal in the Speedo drive, to seal the inner, and machine the outer brass area for a oring. Both solve the oil leaks. I also machine the cover, for proper seals for kickstart and shift shaft.
4 508 Read More
Royal enfield forum Jump to new posts
1958 Woodsman Exhaust Rick T 1 hour ago
Hello:

I have sent off an original 1958 Woodsman exhaust to have a new pipe made.

If there is any interest from forum members I may have extra sets made.

I do not know a cost yet, but should know soon.

The pipes can be either in bare steel or chromed.

Regards,

Rick T
0 8 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
62 Triumph 500 Chopper, Colorado $4,500 franko 1 hour ago
0 11 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
72 Triumph Tiger, North Carolina $3,500 franko 1 hour ago
0 9 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
77 Triumph Bonneville, Illionis $4,700 franko 1 hour ago
0 8 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
59 Norton ES2, Maine $7,500 franko 2 hours ago
0 10 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
67 BSA Royal Star, Connecticut $2,500 franko 2 hours ago
0 10 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
72 Bsa Lightning, Ohio $7,500 franko 2 hours ago
0 5 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
71 Thunderbolt, Illonis $5,900 franko 2 hours ago
0 8 Read More
Hot links forum Jump to new posts
52 Sunbeam S8, Michigan $7,400 franko 2 hours ago
0 9 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: Those new RE twins! DavidP 2 hours ago
Originally Posted by Lannis

As far as standardizing, suppose every car maker just put the pedals where they wanted them? Accelerator on the left, clutch next to it, and brake on the right, and you had to remember which was which every time you got into a different car? People would be crashing left and right ....

That's precisely the situation with forklifts! The controls operate however the manufacturer determines. This is why one must be re-certified every time one changes jobs.
19 554 Read More
Ajs & Matchless forum Jump to new posts
Re: Photo ID Rohan 2 hours ago
Great photo ! Is that you in command ?

OK, so its got the chrome tank panels with winged round tank badge, a tin primary cover,
a painted front mudguard (fender) and a full width alloy front wheel.
And a twin, obviously. All pointing to somewhere in the mid-late 1950s.

I'm going to plump for a 1957 Model G11 Matchy, a 600cc twin.
Click for a bigger pic
These sold in large numbers, particularly in the USA.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
(more there, darned if I can link them )

Someone who really knows their models may be better able to totally pick if its 500cc, or 550cc though,
all very similar and similar era. Apart from some having a slightly fragile crankshaft setup, a good seller,
and Matchless were renowned for the quality of their finish. USA models often had more chrome.

P.S. The engine number will often include the Model type AND year, so if your cousin could confirm that
you would have it 100% nailed down. What was exported will often vary slightly from what was in the British
brochures, which can lead to some variations in identification.
1 9 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: 1955 T110 Cylinder Bore Question JakeH 2 hours ago
Agreed Bill !! Its lots more difficult to get a basketcase sorted than to freshen up the top end of a well running bike!! Go .004 or more and be safe! Get good rings!! we have had the
best luck with Goetze rings. Same MFG that BMW uses. use a 150-180 grit finish on the cyl walls. install rings dry, and lightly oil the skirts!! good luck !
24 679 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: Today's Run Wilfred 2 hours ago
Kent......some great bikes and related stuff.

However, I'd like to suggest a new year's resolution to help with your photographic pleasure ( and ours ). You've still got that smudge on your camera lens. Next time you're down to your local photo shop get them to clean the lens and get rid of the smoky ghost in most of your photos. Or maybe try a Q tip with a drop of lens cleaner or windex. Only a drop.....ok, I'll go back to the shop now!


Happy New Year!

Wilf
2 101 Read More
The Rod and Tappet Jump to new posts
Re: A funny thing happened.... DavidP 2 hours ago
I still try to delude myself that I'm not old. But 3-4 hours of chores and I'm beat, and two beers and I need a nap.
10 352 Read More
British motorcycles in general Jump to new posts
441 Gear Question Norcoastal 3 hours ago
Here’s something that’s making me scratch my head.

I’m creating a BSA 441 gearbox from parts. In the parts manual as well as the workshop manual there is a “thrust washer” that sits between the two Pinion gears 22T and 21T.

I gave all the gears and I have the thrust washer, but it appears that when I slide the thrust washer on the main shaft between the two pinion gears, it looks like they wouldn’t be able to engage.

Is that correct? And if not, where does the washer go? The manuals are VERY vague.

Lastly there is a felt washer that supposed to go somewhere on the main shaft, but again, it’s very vague where it’s placed.

I would post pictures but I can’t figure out that to do that either...hahaha....
0 17 Read More
Members bike projects Jump to new posts
Re: Norton Commando Jon W. Whitley Yesterday at 11:48 PM
I scored a set of NOS Gran Turismo grips to go along with the new bars !

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
60 6,467 Read More
Triumph bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: late 500 Inner case boss screws Tridentman Yesterday at 11:40 PM
A good place to use a dab of blue Loctite on the threads.
4 100 Read More
Garage sale - The private buy & sell board Jump to new posts
Re: WTD 1970 Mudguards Jon W. Whitley Yesterday at 11:15 PM
Originally Posted by Al Eckstadt
Wanted, I think.



That makes sense. I was thinking in terms of WTB ( Want to Buy ) and I could not figure out what the D was supposed to stand for or mean.


Thanks Al.
3 123 Read More
Bsa bulletin board Jump to new posts
Re: Help Me Identify this Bike/Components Jon W. Whitley Yesterday at 11:04 PM
13 478 Read More
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